Fast hitch hitting left fender.

[Limblips]

I have 3 cubs but this is my only fast hitch. My issue is that the rockshaft is hitting the left fender where it goes under the fender. I saw one picture where the fender was notched to provide clearance, but I really would rather not do that. Any ideas? Picture is of my setup. Thanks.

 

[Don McCombs]

I’m a little confused about what you mean by going under the fender. Is it possible that your fender is slightly bent, causing the conflict? Is it possible for you to include a photo of where contact is being made?

 

[Limblips]

I’m a little confused about what you mean by going under the fender. Is it possible that your fender is slightly bent, causing the conflict? Is it possible for you to include a photo of where contact is being made?

I'll be back at camp on Wednesday and get a picture.

 

[Glen]

If you mean the large shaft rubs on the fender, about 4" below the lift rod, I don't think it would matter much, if all the bolts are installed, and the hitch lifts and lowers right.
You could loosen the 4 bolts holding the fender on, and see if it will lift up any.
The hitch is missing 2 quick attach pins, on the large pins the rope is around in the picture.
The left one is a special pin, with a hardened sleeve on it.
The right pin is supposed to be in from the other direction, so the long part of it is out to the right, to attach the lift rod for the Cub 144 Cultivator rear sweep to.
The 2 open holes on the left are for grease fittings, 1 fitting is there, on the right.
Below are pictures of the pins.
The pull bar originally has a pin like in the 3rd and 4th pictures below, it has a hardened sleeve too.

 

[Glen]

Here is more info.
It looks like the right bracket holding the hitch onto the right final drive in your picture is backwards. It's sort of hard to see it in the picture, maybe it's just the picture making it look that way. I don't know how the bail would fit if the brackets are backwards.
Looking in the Cub and LoBoy parts manual, the left bracket is part number 520125R1, or R2.
It may or may not have a hole in it to get to the plug to check the final drive oil level. Early brackets had no hole.
The right bracket is 520124R1 or R2.
Usually the number is cast into the brackets, you can look at the numbers to see if the brackets are on the right sides of the hitch.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of a Fast Hitch right side bracket on a Cub. This hitch has a depth adjustment lever, to the right of the seat. Newer hitches have the crank, to the right of the seat.

The brackets at the ends of the round bar the pull bar hangs down on are upside down. They thread onto the round bar. They need to be changed 1/2 turn. Turn them so they are as far onto the threads as they can go, and be the right direction.
I have found that putting some grease on the seat shaft, as you put it together helps it move better.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual showing the Fast Hitch.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Owner's Manuals/McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 12-20-55/Page 18.jpg

https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%2012-20-55/Page%2019.jpg

 

[Peter Person]

From TM Tractor
Fast Hitch on a tractor
Which version of the FH do you have?
Early style had the depth adjuster lever on the right side. (this is the version shown in the TM Tractor link)
Later style uses a hand crank on the right side.
There are several parts that are very different between the two versions.

 

[Don McCombs]

Here is more info.
It looks like the right bracket holding the hitch onto the right final drive in your picture is backwards. It's sort of hard to see it in the picture, maybe it's just the picture making it look that way. I don't know how the bail would fit if the brackets are backwards.
Looking in the Cub and LoBoy parts manual, the left bracket is part number 520125R1, or R2.
It may or may not have a hole in it to get to the plug to check the final drive oil level. Early brackets had no hole.
The right bracket is 520124R1 or R2.
Usually the number is cast into the brackets, you can look at the numbers to see if the brackets are on the right sides of the hitch.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of a Fast Hitch right side bracket on a Cub. This hitch has a depth adjustment lever, to the right of the seat. Newer hitches have the crank, to the right of the seat.

The brackets at the ends of the round bar the pull bar hangs down on are upside down. They thread onto the round bar. They need to be changed 1/2 turn. Turn them so the are as far onto the threads as they can go, and be the right direction.
I have found that putting some grease on the seat shaft, as you put it together helps it move better.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual showing the Fast Hitch.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Owner's Manuals/McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 12-20-55/Page 18.jpg

https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%2012-20-55/Page%2019.jpg

I’s hard to tell for sure, but I think the two brackets are reversed. Right bracket is installed on the left, left bracket is installed on the right.

 

[tst]

yes the "long" side of the bracket for the cultivator hook up should face toward the outside

 

[Glen]

You didn't say what year the Cub is.
To add to what tst said above, the 2 rear sweeps for the Cub 144 Cultivator attach in the large holes in the lower part of the Fast Hitch brackets.

 

[Glen]

Looking in the Cub and LoBoy parts manual, the left bracket is part number 520125R1, or R2.
It may or may not have a hole in it to get to the plug to check the final drive oil level. Early brackets had no hole.
The right bracket is 520124R1 or R2.
Usually the number is cast into the brackets, you can look at the numbers to see if the brackets are on the right sides of the hitch.

I think the part numbers of the brackets I have seen are on the side that would be visible when the brackets are installed, so you may have to take the Fast Hitch off the Cub to see the numbers.
If the brackets are on the wrong sides, you will need to take the hitch off to get the bale off the brackets.
When the Fast Hitch is off the Cub, I would check or change the final drive oils, if you haven't done that. You have to remove the pans to change the oils. They have gaskets that may need replacing.
TM Tractor Parts has new gaskets.
You can't get to the rear bolt holding the pans on, with the Fast Hitch on the Cub, when the brackets are on the correct sides.
The level plug for the left side is between the rear 3 implement mounting holes. The right plug is between the front 3 holes. The final drives are the same style casting.
Also, the pin at the upper end of the diagonal link looks smaller than it should be. The pin should fill the hole.

 

[Limblips]

You didn't say what year the Cub is.
To add to what tst said above, the 2 rear sweeps for the Cub 144 Cultivator attach in the large holes in the lower part of the Fast Hitch brackets.

Sorry. Cub is a '53. I am going to my cabin Wednesday so I will be looking at it to verify all of the comments.

 

[Limblips]

Okay, update on the Rubik's cube that is a Cub Fast Hitch! You guys are good. As pointed out, I did find that the brackets were reversed. I knew I was missing zerk fittings (took them out to spray break free in to free up the parts). I did not know about the special pins. I have one but will get the other one and fill all the pin holes. The brackets that screw on the round bar were 1/2 turn out. I have fixed all of this. Now on to buying a new lift link since the one I have is cobbled up and has no bend to clear the fender (fender was bent. Is a low boy the same? I also will need to get a leveling crank (or lever). How do I tell which one I need? Also what is the dimple on the bushing that goes on the lift link for? I am stripping, repairing and painting this tractor since it is in overall good shape but a terrible paint job with what appears to be something somebody's kid brought home from finger painting day at pre-school. Thanks for all the help!

 

[tst]

lift link is different between loboy and regular cub

 

[Don McCombs]

The configuration of the bale will tell you whether you need the lever style or crank style lift mechanism. Look at the parts diagrams and the photos on TM Tractor Parts to figure this out. The crank style is the only one used on the LoBoy and it is not compatible with the Cub. Is the bushing with the dimple, the silver one in your first photo? BTW, that photo is only marginally helpful. We need to see the entire setup, with the tarp removed.

 

[Glen]

I also will need to get a leveling crank (or lever). How do I tell which one I need?

Good you are making progress with the Fast Hitch.
The Fast Hitch came out in late 1954 on Cubs, at serial number 185001. Since no 1953 Cub had a Fast Hitch, if it uses the depth adjusting lever, the holes for parts of it might not be there, and you would need to drill them, in the right places.
But it might be a newer hitch, and use the crank.
To tell if it uses the lever or the crank, look at the bale, the bracket welded on the right front of the bale is different for the lever, or the crank. The bale should be turned so the bracket is at the right front of the Cub. It probably could be put on upside down. Change it if it is upside down.
Below is a page from the Cub and LoBoy parts manual showing both bales. Look closely at the shape of the brackets.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 09 - Frame/Page 09-05.jpg

The pictures below that Peter posted above show the hitch with the lever, and the bracket on the bale, near the bottom of the 1st page, and on the 2nd page.
The 2nd page shows the lever and quadrant parts, there is a hole in the fender, a hole in the platform, and a hole in the part ahead of the fender.
They don't seem to have pictures of a hitch with the crank.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim/fhitch_001.htm

I think tst has made some of the lift link rods in the past, maybe he still has them.
Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of the lever quadrant.
It looks like Don posted while I was making this post.

 

[Glen]

Also what is the dimple on the bushing that goes on the lift link for?

I'm not sure what you mean. The spacer near the rear of the lift rod is supposed to be there, but yours is shiny and probably one someone made. The original spacer is not shiny, and a larger OD.
It is shown in the parts manual.
There is a stop collar that goes ahead of the parts on the lift rod, it has a hole with threads, and a set screw goes in it. It is used to keep the hitch from raising up when backing up with a trailer, pushing in reverse with the hitch. It is shown in the parts manual.
Below is a picture of the collar on the rod. It is adjusted ahead some in this picture, so the hitch can float when using a plow.
There should be a cotter key in the hole through the lift rod, at the rear end of the rod, to keep the nut from coming off the end during use.