Farmall Cub Radiator over flow

Vern007

Member
May try to put a hose on the Radiotor over flow tube. Someone cut my tube at bottom of top tank and when it over flows the fan blows it every where. Was just curious as to thoughts from more knowledgeable people.
 

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The last new radiator I bought only came with a stub at the filler neck of the radiator. I simply attached the appropriate diameter tubing and ran it outside the shroud down below the bolster. I used cable ties to secure it in place and along its length. I would think you could just use a piece of tubing from the section that is remaining on your radiator and run it straight down below the bolster, securing it wherever you can.

The alternative is to actually replace your whole metal tube with one like this from TM Tractors.

 
Thanks for the replies, I drained all the coolant this past weekend and refilled it so its burping out what it dont need other then that it dot over flow. I figure it may overflow one more time when I get to working it maybe.
 
Sounds like you've figured it out. It will quit overflowing when it reaches the proper level of coolant. It's hard to trust it without a temperature gauge but that's how it works.
 
I had the same issue on one of my Cubs. I just attached a length of rubber tubing to extend it down below the bolster. It works fine. On my summer mowing tractor that gets 4 hrs of work weekly, sometimes in 90° heat, l add coolant at least once a month. I know it finds it's own operating level, but l'd rather be safe than sorry.
 
A piece of hose will be just fine. Radiator overflow hose is a little different than fuel hose, it has a thinner wall thickness, you might see if your local auto parts has some, otherwise, fuel hose should should work.
 
If you want metal pipe in lieu of the flexible rubber/plastic tubing, you could try a piece of brake line or copper tubing of the matching size and couple it together with a compression union fitting or a short rubber line as a coupling. JMHO Stan
 
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Hi,
The headlight wire for the left headlight originally goes between the radiator upper pipe and the shroud. The 1955 Cub operator's manual shows it, in the wiring diagram, and a picture.
The picture shows it was a regular wire, I think, without the thick cover, so it went in a smaller space between them than the thick wire probably would.
It's not a problem, it works the way you have it.
 
I wish I could keep radiator fluid in my cub. The hills here are steep and long enough that I lose about 1/2 gallon or more each mowing. I would love to find a sealed non pressurized cap.
 
Below are listings for pressure caps for Cubs at TM Tractor Parts, so you can see what there is. They are Case IH parts, it says.
IH had optional pressure caps for them also.
The listings show there are 2 different lengths of filler necks, so you need to measure what the radiator has.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/co/2537fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/co/3146fp.htm

You probably need a radiator and hoses in good condition to use a pressure cap.
The hose clamps need checking and tightening occasionally, to prevent leaks. The upper hose clamps can be seen from up under the hood, on the left side. Use a good light to see under the hood. If the clamps are turned the right way, they can be tightened.
Moving the Touch Control arms to the rear, or down position gives more room to reach up under the hood. :)
 
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Just put a 4psi pressure cap on it.
I always assumed the pressurized caps were for the lowboys and not fcubs. I try not to do things that aren’t in the manual. I was also unsure how a pressurized cap would effect the thermo circulation of the cooling system.
 
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