Farmall Cub Paint

D

David Hummel

Active member
After finally getting my cub running, and I have been working on cleaning everything up, I believe it is time to start looking into paint. Ive read a few posts on here about using 2150 paint from my local IH dealer. Looking into it I have found that they sell the 2150 paint in a rattle can. Has anyone here had good experience with the rattle can paint, how much different is it than spraying it out of a gun? Does it fade quickly? The cub will be stored indoors most of the time. I am asking about the rattle can paint because I do not currently own a paint spray gun or anything, I have a respirator, but it is not air supplied, so I thought this would be worth asking, because I don't want all my hard work to go into a bad paint job. Secondly, what does everyone use to degrease the parts with before paint? thanks
 
i would run it and work it more. if you just got it running look for seal leaks and other needed repairs. You do not want to put wrenches on fresh paint
 
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I rattle canned my Super A. I know it won't last as long but it's still a light duty worker so scuffs and dings are inevitable and rattle can is easy, so I don't mind having to do it again in a few years.

While we're on the subject of rattle can painting, does anyone recommend putting the rattle can clear coat over vinyl decals? I've looked it up on Google but I get mixed answers. Was looking to add a little more shine and protection for the hood, but I don't want to do anything that could muck up the new decals.
 
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I used the International paint in both forms: from the can and through a spray gun and from a rattle can; however, my Cub has been stored indoors for 25 years and still looks phenomenal. I did not use the rattle can method on the sheet metal, though - only on the cast iron as touch-up to make it look new for shows. Even the rattle cans are over $20 for the International paint! For little money, you could consider a Chinese spray gun, which I've used on another show tractor with surprisingly good results but not on the sheet metal, where I used a $400 gun and hardener. The spray pattern was perfect with the Chinese unit out of the box, but there is still a fair amount of cleanup of internal parts. A cheap, small portable air compressor like the ones used for construction for nailing will get the job done and will set you back about $100 or so. They are handy for filling air in tires, etc. But, they run of air quickly and one must wait for them to refill while spraying. Larger ones than the pancake types are better and a bit more money. I would never rely on spray bombs for a quality finish and never saw such a job compare to better set-ups. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for. Better to bite the bullet right off. Watch YouTube videos to learn proper spray patterns and techniques or consult with experts. As with all painting projects, good results are dependent upon preparation before any paint is applied. It's a waste of money painting over bumps and dents and other imperfections which show up more when the top coat shines.
 
Barebones said:
I used the International paint in both forms: from the can and through a spray gun and from a rattle can; however, my Cub has been stored indoors for 25 years and still looks phenomenal. I did not use the rattle can method on the sheet metal, though - only on the cast iron as touch-up to make it look new for shows. Even the rattle cans are over $20 for the International paint! For little money, you could consider a Chinese spray gun, which I've used on another show tractor with surprisingly good results but not on the sheet metal, where I used a $400 gun and hardener. The spray pattern was perfect with the Chinese unit out of the box, but there is still a fair amount of cleanup of internal parts. A cheap, small portable air compressor like the ones used for construction for nailing will get the job done and will set you back about $100 or so. They are handy for filling air in tires, etc. But, they run of air quickly and one must wait for them to refill while spraying. Larger ones than the pancake types are better and a bit more money. I would never rely on spray bombs for a quality finish and never saw such a job compare to better set-ups. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for. Better to bite the bullet right off. Watch YouTube videos to learn proper spray patterns and techniques or consult with experts. As with all painting projects, good results are dependent upon preparation before any paint is applied. It's a waste of money painting over bumps and dents and other imperfections which show up more when the top coat shines.
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I have a compressor, wouldn't mind buying the spray gun, its just the use of hardener that scares me, I know I would have to have an air supplied mask, I will have to look at how much that cost.
 
David Hummel said:
I have a compressor, wouldn't mind buying the spray gun, its just the use of hardener that scares me, I know I would have to have an air supplied mask, I will have to look at how much that cost.
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In addition to the supplied air breathing apparatus, you’ll need full body contact protection. Isocyanates can enter the body through the eyes and skin. Don’t forget that isocyanates can drift in the wind and impact other, non-protected persons.
 
David Hummel said:
I have a compressor, wouldn't mind buying the spray gun, its just the use of hardener that scares me, I know I would have to have an air supplied mask, I will have to look at how much that cost.
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I used to spray a sizable amount of conversion varnish when I had my cabinet shop. Different hardeners resulted in different pot times. The version I used allowed me 16 hours of time before it set up in the pot. I could spray it and sand it in 30 minutes though. I would assume a good paint company would have various pot times for hardeners they carry. This way you can get your job done and not worry about it setting up in your gun.
 
Forgot to mention the frustrating nature of spray bombs, which can drip, spit and leak paint. Some tips are better than others, but those Internation ones are no better than cheap spray cans.
 
anyone got recommendations for a cheapish paint gun (50-150 price range)?

also without hardener how long will the paint take to cure approximately?
 
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