markwayne":3jc6pmxi said:
Lets say a neighbor has a Super A I have been lusting after. How do I tell if it has a 113 or a 123 engine. And IIRC the A's had single hydraulics like the Cub.
There's a part number change to the block. That's part number not serial number, and off the top of my head I can't remember what the two numbers are. 123 vs. 113 doesn't matter--after market sources make thinwall sleeves to make a 113 into a 123 regardless of the block. Back in the day, people around here referred to it as "putting a Super C kit in a Super A." My tractor got this treatment in 1961--IH Firecrater aluminum pistons. There was also a different set of weights for the distributor (not magneto) to change the advance to make more power. My grandaddy said after he got the big pistons, he could pull a load in 3rd that he used to have to pull in 2nd. What this means is, a 100/130/140 might've had more HP than a bone stock Super A, but it doesn't take much to make em all equal to each other.
The Super A had DOUBLE Touch Control circuits. So you could raise the front section of the cultivator, or left and right sides, independent of each other. This is the thing I dislike most about the Cub--you have 3-4 feet of row PAST the end of the row if you try to cultivate out to the end of the row with your rear section. With the Super A, 100, and 140, you can cultivate right out to the end, raise the front, and then continue until the rear is at the end and raise it. Doesn't tear up the grass in the yard.
To echo what others have said, if you don't want to sell your Cub(s) dont buy a Super A/100/130/140 tractor. They might be a third bigger in stature, but they'll do an awful lot more work. Plus, you can take the

hood off without taking off the whole

gas tank!
The Cub has the edge in nimbleness/maneuverability.
Al