F134 CJ5 engine disassembly

S

staninlowerAL

501 Club
The teardown has begun and as expected the usual problems encountered from an engine that has been sitting for a l-oooooo-g time is testing my ingenuity and resources. Decided to not remove the engine from the frame (yet, might have to do that, we'll see). The C/S is still installed and #1-#3 pistons are out, the bores look good, #1 exhaust was stuck open. C/S and all moving parts are free except #4 piston which is refusing to move except for having been able to drive it down about 1/2 inch. I've not been able to get it to move upward, even the small distance that I drove it down. So, what my choices/options to get this piston out, preferably without taking the block out of the frame? I'm willing to sacrifice the piston and rod as I have a spare, just want to get it out without damaging the block. Anyone have any experience with heating the bore? I've seen some info on putting flammable material on top of the piston and light it on fire, talked to one person who had done this and it worked. Thanks for any and all suggestions and experiences that you might share. Stan
 
if the rings are rusted to the cylinder wall it may not help, I have done that, put some atf in the cylinder and light it with a torch so gets hot enough to burn on its own, it does warm up the block then hit that piston while its hot, also try bumping it with the starter also
 
my lil F134 in my 61 CJ5 is still ticking thank god, the ATF/acetone soak seems to be a popular choice. good luck!
 

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staninlowerAL":2m7d9s9o said:
The teardown has begun and as expected the usual problems encountered from an engine that has been sitting for a l-oooooo-g time is testing my ingenuity and resources. Decided to not remove the engine from the frame (yet, might have to do that, we'll see). The C/S is still installed and #1-#3 pistons are out, the bores look good, #1 exhaust was stuck open. C/S and all moving parts are free except #4 piston which is refusing to move except for having been able to drive it down about 1/2 inch. I've not been able to get it to move upward, even the small distance that I drove it down. So, what my choices/options to get this piston out, preferably without taking the block out of the frame? I'm willing to sacrifice the piston and rod as I have a spare, just want to get it out without damaging the block. Anyone have any experience with heating the bore? I've seen some info on putting flammable material on top of the piston and light it on fire, talked to one person who had done this and it worked. Thanks for any and all suggestions and experiences that you might share. Stan
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Why not pull the engine out and put it on a stand? Life will be so much easier......
 
ricky racer":2urhof11 said:
Why not pull the engine out and put it on a stand? Life will be so much easier......
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:thanx: for the suggestions. I agree that would probably be the best option. The main problem is I don't really have the capability/facilities, etc to do that, so I'm trying to get the engine unstuck and running to assess the overall condition and possibilities of this vintage jeep (estimated age 50+ years, it's about a 68 model) without having a fortune invested in it. If I can do it this way, I will determine if I want to invest in a full rebuild and/or restoration. At this point, I've got more time than funds to invest in this.
 
Update on the piston removal. I've constructed a puller from some angle, 5/8 x 12 bolts and flatbar. The angle is shaped and fitted to connect with the wristpin boss on the bottom side and welded to the 5/8 bolt, one for each side. The piston will be sacrificed by drilling a 3/4 inch hole through the top on each side at a point opposite the connecting rod next to the outside edge. It was going to be damaged in the removal process anyway and I have a spare. The 5/8 inch flatbar is drilled for the two bolts and will rest on the flat surface of the block. The plan is to assemble this contraption and by tightening the nuts will provide the force to lift the piston up and out the top. I've also constructed an extension (not shown in the picture) to bolt on the lower end of the connecting rod to allow additional hammer force to be applied while pulling from the top. The picture is a discarded piston that was used to fit this all together. Wish me luck!! puller_#2.jpg
 
Bob McCarty":29f6prom said:
I don't think you'll need it, but GOOD LUCK!!
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Thanks Bob but I'm sure that I can use all the luck I can get. This problem has sorely tested my ingenuity skills up to this point. Cub tractors are not so complicated although I guess they could be. Certainly a lot more space to work!! :lol:
 
Update on the piston removal project. Happy to say that the effort has been successful. I drilled 2 holes 3/4 inch diameter in the piston to be removed and fitted the two 5/8 inch modified bolts from the bottom (C/S in place), extending through the 1/2 x 4 plate as shown in the first picture. With all parts in place and tightened, I started wrenching the double nuts to draw the piston up and out the top. It was a fight all the way and required readjusting the spacers as the piston neared the top. The final picture shows the piston still in the bore but well over half way out. Only about 1.5 inches of the lower skirt is still holding. Thanks for all the suggestions and encouragement. puller_2a.jpg puller_2b.jpg
 
tldec50":8xnn6zwn said:
.....just weld up them holes and new rings ready to reinstall,Tim
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Thanks, I have several pistons from other projects so I plan to just replace it and keep it for a souvineer. This is a Grandson project so he might want to keep it for a pen/pencil holder.
 
Found and ordered .010 replacement rings & other misc parts for reassembly. Still looking for one more piston, will use one of the old ones for now since the seller only had 3 NOS pistons.
 
staninlowerAL":1wevx4c5 said:
Found and ordered .010 replacement rings & other misc parts for reassembly. Still looking for one more piston, will use one of the old ones for now since the seller only had 3 NOS pistons.
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UPDATE: :shock: ebay pistons arrived today, seller stated up front no refunds. So when I opened the boxes two were marked .010 while one was marked .010 and .020. All 3 boxes were marked with the same info. Oh well, there were extras anyway and it might turn out that the size is the same on all 3 and just double marked on the top of one. We'll see.
 
Just in case anyone is wondering what happened, life got in the way and this project is on hold until we have some warmer and better weather. :)
 
I had a machine shop check the new ones comparison checked with the old ones from the engine. I don't remember the exact measurements but they are within spec for .010 oversize. The shop recommended checking and fitting to the bore as needed, I think the tolerance is .002--.003.
 
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