Electrolysis Tank Question

ParlowMillFarm

Well-known member
What is the right battery charger for my electrolysis tank? I'm trying to restore my cultivator and the "smart" charger is too smart!

Most of the time, like 99%, the charger senses something is not right, puts out an error message and shuts off.

Am I better off with a dumb charger and which one?

Thanks in advance for the suggestions/tips.

John
 
You want an old school charger. I bought one years ago from Rizk Industries that had no sensors or shutoffs. Made in USA.
 
The cheap one from Harbor Freight does not have continuous current sense. You get it started by hooking up an automotive battery and then disconnecting. It’s not really user friendly.

There is also Rizk National Industries. I ordered from them a year ago, was charged, and still haven’t received it. Stay away from them.

I would recommend a DC power source.
 
I have picked up manual type chargers at farm auctions for a couple dollars. If they need repair, it's usually something quite simple.
Bauerei":180rpnh0 said:
The cheap one from Harbor Freight does not have continuous current sense. You get it started by hooking up an automotive battery and then disconnecting. It’s not really user friendly.
I have used a 4 amp, 12 volt manual switched battery charger to get my newer, computer smart, battery charger going for the electrolysis tank.
 
I have used a craftsman 6/12 volt charger, an exide 6 volt 1/5 amp charger, or my welder set on DC.... as a result i've learned that 12 gauge wire can actually conduct 100 amps, but turns blue and melts into the 5 gallon pail... but boy it cleans fast!!! the 1 amp charger i've let sit overnight. the advantage is that as opposed to sand blasting, electrolysis cleans but doesn't deteriorate the part. just leave your garage door open overnight or leave it outside..
c
 
The best way to get a lot of productivity out of the tank is to put a LOT of washing soda in water so the electrolyte is very conductive. You just have to watch the ampmeter on the charger to make sure it does not overload it.
 
I used the Tim Allen approach (more power!) but learned that over about 40-50 amps the bubbling is so vigorous that the liquid isn't in as much contact with the part you're trying to clean and it is less efficient. I'd set the welder at 25-30 amps, go mow a section of the lawn and come back to re-adjust the electrodes or part or what have you and always had great results. Took off oil, grease, paint, rust, anything - and didn't eat away the part like a sand blaster would. Either more soda or have the electrodes closer - they both amount to the same thing which is less resistance between the part and the electrodes through the liquid. A small green bean can worked well for bolts and nuts i wanted to save, and 8-10 pieces of rebar around the sides of a 5 gallon bucket worked well for larger parts. I used a concrete mixing tub with 20 pieces of rebar for flywheels or water tanks for old hit and miss engines too... suppose an old wash tub would work well too but would be harder to clean the rust out of when it got dirty.

One great benefit is cleaning of cast iron cookware. blasting with sand would load the pores of the cast iron and prevent cooking properly. i cleaned an 1860's waffle iron that had been painted and hung on a wall and it came out shiny light grey, perfectly clean pores, seasoned it and still use it.
 
Wait, I thought you could trick the new chargers by putting a dead battery battery between the charger and the tank. I had an old auto garage charger and would use 250 amps and lots of tsp and it would cook like no bodies business. I have a new charger now but have yet to try in with the battery trick. Anyone heard of this?
 
Thanks for suggestions and observations.

Well I found this.... "Battery Tender 10-Amp 12-Volt Car Battery Charger" it doesn't say "smart" so I wonder...

But sounds like I could put more power to it, if I could find something that did 30+ amps
 
You don't need 30 amps. 10 amp charger just takes longer to clean the metal.

Stated earlier in this topic, older battery chargers are fairly easy to find and very inexpensive.
 
Flat electrodes with a lot of surface area work better than rebar or chunks of cast iron. Keeping them cleans helps a lot and a flat piece of steel is easier to clean.
 
John...do you have the tank set up. I have a really sweet 50 gallon blue plastic barrel. With all new rebars (anodes) and connectors. Will be in Marion later today if you want to borrow it. Folks are having a big yard sale in August so let Annie know to be on the look out for updates.
 
So.... I’ve been thinking of building a tank. I’ve always sandblasted. I do a batch of parts and immediately mix up epoxy primer in my gun and coat them. No rusting takes place while bare. How to you keep parts from rusting after coming out of the tank? Assuming you have to clean with water to rinse off the solution? Would be a pain to mix up primer for each small batch from tank and coating with an oil based product would affect adherence of primers or top costs. Is there any other options? Thanks for everyone’s input
 
I have had great luck using graphite as electrodes, as they are self cleaning as they eventually wear away. Got tired of cleaning the steel plates. look for them on auction sites(e-bay) under EDM electrodes, or graphite. Personally I have been using old computer power supplies as they always have several voltage outputs. I gang the 12V output together, and use them. seems like I never have enough battery chargers, or they are always somewhere other than where i need them.
 
Back
Top