Dimensions for fast hitch attachments

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hello all, I was hoping that some of you out there might have the dimensions for the arm on the attachments that would slide into the sleeve of the fast hitch on my tractor. I picked up a blade that I would like to convert into a back blade and would rather not waste my time guessing on the dimensions. Thanks guys.....

BillyJoeJimBob
 
The one point arm is the same as all of the large point / 2 point implements that fit the 300 on up, well actually a 240 has the large point also. many times you can find the large point stuff at a junk yard cheap unlike the small point stuff for a Super S, 200 etc..
When I go back outside I can measure one for you. It is raining, sleeting and just down right nasty here in southern Wisconsin.
I head out for the IHCC Winter Convention on wednesday to FL.
Mike
 
Mike,

I've never had a fast hitch on anything. Do you think the drawing on "Sneaky" Peters' and "Fastlane" Freeman's bumper sticker is accurate?
 
Mike, I look forward to getting those dimensions from you. I understand that you wouldn't want to go out in that beautiful weather. The weather here in N.W. Pa hasn't been perfect either... Monday it was -10, Fri it was 55. I would prefer about 20 more degrees to the latter though.


Bill
 
I saw a pair of points on ebay today, do not recall cost,or exact location. You should try a search for ( farmall ) . Good luck. Russ
 
Lienbach machinery in Winston Salem has them. two sizes. around $25. Figure 12' from front of point to impliment. See harrow made with one on my site below. (13 tooth)
 
thanks for the info on where to get those fast hitch parts. At that price, it sure beats making them myself!


Bill
 
Hi Dan I joined your group, I like the frame work that you made up for your grader blade. I am assuming that it installs into the cultivator sockets on the f-h mounting brackets. My plow was all cut up long ago to try to make it work on my loader, which I think probably only worked until it got up against its first immovable object and was deposited where my uncle left it until I dug it out 30 some odd years later. I think the chop saw and the mig might just have a little job to do this coming spring, thanks for the ideas. As for the F-H arms at agri supply do you know if these are the ones that fit on a cub, because I also have an old horse drawn harrow that we have used for years with a chain to drag but it would be nice to be able to travel down the road with it raised, and it would sure make it a lot easier at the end of the rows to be able to lift it and turn around. Thanks Welderr
 
I bought 3 of the points from Agri supply and was very unhappy with the product. When comparing it with an original IH point it is a poor fitting unit. I'm very afraid to use them for fear of wearing out the socket on my tractor. The points are still available from IH/ Case but I don't have one within an hours drive.
 
Thanks for the reply Bob I have seen some after market name brand rake's made with a 1 point fast hitch, and the spear looked like it was cut out with a torch by a first week welding student with bad glasses and shakey hands and they were getting top dollar for them. I guess I will make my own thanks for the reply. T.J.
 
It might be tough to build without a milling machine. The original units were made with different tapers along its lengthThe leading point has a steep taper and the after the notch it is more gradual until its stop.Of course the bottom is flat.
 
Welderr, I can see I need to put my new camera to work. The middlebuster has a point cut off a Cole planter I sold. also I have sold the 13 tooth harrow.(maybe I can still get pictures) My dad (had) made the lift for the 8' harrow when we got the first Cub in'55'. he used a horse drawn plowbeam and had the point made and welded on. I think he got the idea from my uncle who also had a cub. I need to scan a copy of the middlebuster point.and send to Rudi to share. also i think the better points are not flat on the bottom. I had to take a side grinder to the 8' harrow back in the '80s to make it work right. I don't think you will hurt the drawbar with an inferior point, it will just be agravating to use. You were right about the blade, it uses the cult. holes. I need to learn how to post pictures on this site.
 
Hey welderrx,

You say that you would stick too making your own, do you have the dimensions for the stakes?
 
Dan, I sent you an email so that you can mail those pics out, I greatly appreciate it...


Bill
 
Hi Billyjoejimbob, I have a few implements with the spear on them, so I don't need the dimensions, I have been contemplating making my bracket's to mount on the side of the drawbar using the coulter hole and the rear hole that the "drawbar or tow plate" pins onto, you would not be able to mount them from the seat, but it's not like I really need to be able to switch them in seconds anyway. Besides I would save a lot on grinding wheels and acetylene. T.J.
 
Back
Top