Cultivator help, please

[Dieselrider]

I have a set of cultivators on my 49 cub and they work but, it seems like there should be more ground clearance when they are in the up position. Right now maybe 4-5 inches clearance at best from the ground while in the up position. They engage the ground with plenty of travel left on the control lever. I have a couple pics and could use some advice as to whether there is a way to adjust these or am I just going to need to deal with it the way it is.

Here is the ground clearance now. Sorry not a great pic but, I think you can see they are close to the floor.

Pic of the right side of the tractor with the hydraulics in the raised position.

Last one showing the lift arm and the spring had been all the way tight by the previous owner of the cultivators. (Bought them separate from the tractor).

If that spring were let out a bit would that give more lift or less? Or no change at all?
Another question is are the cultivator shanks the right shanks? They look more like John Deere shanks to me but, I am no expert by any means. The side shanks could be raised but the two up front are pretty much at their highest. Thank you for any insight you can provide.

 

[Barnyard]

Lengthen the rod for more lift.

 

[Jim Becker]

Changing the length of the pressure rods will change the vertical position of the cultivators. HOWEVER, you can only raise the cultivators a limited amount before they smack (and dent) the engine oil pan. You may already have them up as far as they can go.

Your shanks look like an earlier style IH shank that wasn't usually seen on Cub cultivators. You should be able to find an IHC logo cast into them.

 

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is a Cub 144 cultivator owner's manual below. The universal mounting frame, and the rods are on page 10.
The vertical shanks can be raised up some, if you need to, the 2 on the right are all the way down in the pics. Loosen the nuts under them, I believe they wedge in place to hold the shaft tight. Hammer the bottom of the bolt up from below, and the shaft should loosen, then adjust it where you want to. Be careful not to damage the bolt threads.
You might need to use penetrating oil on the nuts to get them loose.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

 

[pickerandsinger]

All advice given was great...As Glen said loosening the wedge and raising the shanks will help also...Mine the round bar is 1 1/2 inches or so showing above...As Jim said watch the oil pan and engine especially on the left side...For my disc hillers I shortened (cut a few inches off) the round bar allowing less to be in danger of hitting on the left side when I raised it....With some fiddling with you'll find the perfect scenario...After hilling with the disc hillers , I planted shorter crops in the hills and removed the disc hillers and adjusted my inside shanks a bit closer...this allows me to cultivate straddling the hilled row...Works good on my strawberries also...I also have rear cultivators one shank following the rear tires and one slightly inside...All are set the same height...Hope this makes sense... I adjusted mine with the cultivators down until I got a satisfactory height with them up....Dave

 

[Slim140]

Pictures 1 & 2 is your square rod hitting your rear tire? It looks like it but it could just be the way the picture is.

 

[Dieselrider]

Pictures 1 & 2 is your square rod hitting your rear tire? It looks like it but it could just be the way the picture is.

The rod doesn't hit but the springs for the cultivator shank is pretty close. I had forgotten about the oil pan. I will see just how much clearance there is for it. The shanks in the back are down that area where the front tire travels. It pushes the dirt down and if they are exactly the same depth as the front ones they will be too high. The front shanks have no room on the shank to come up higher. I will check to see if I have any room for the oil pan to be in the clear before lengthening the rod. Thanks

 

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual, if you want to read it, it tells about implements hitting the bottom of the tractor when they are raised. It says set the Touch Control front stop on the quadrant so the implement doesn't hit.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-61.jpg

Maybe you already know, someone put different name plates on your Cub. It is a Farmall Cub.
A 1949 Cub had name stickers originally.
The plates are from a 1955 - 1958 Cub LoBoy. That is the style they used, they are not a Farmall.
The first International Cub was in 1964 at serial number 224705, when they made the square front hood, and the Cubs were yellow and white.
Here are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the first styles of stickers, and some of the later name plates. It's hard to see the LoBoy names in the 2nd page below, but they are there.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 000-11.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 000-13.jpg

 

[Skinpine]

Some of this will be a repeat of what has already been said but I want to add a little to it:

The shanks you have look like John Deere shanks. That may affect how you can mount the front ones under the tractor (next to the row). Original IH shanks that go there are shorter. The rest are the same length. The shorter shanks help maintain oil pan clearance.

You adjust the quadrant to limit upper travel. The spring adjustment is mainly used to keep the left and right bar at the same height but can be used to move both bars up and down. If you have the correct shanks in the forward (row) position and other adjustments are correct, clearance under the oil pan will be okay with the lift almost or all the way up but make sure nothing is against the oil pan.

The knuckle bolts should me installed with the nut on the bottom. The wedge itself has a straight side that goes against the bar. The reason for having the wedge up is so you can tap it with a hammer while tightening. When removing the wedge, run the nut down flush with the end of the bolt to help protect the threads when you tap it with a hammer to loosen. Adjust the height of the shanks in the knuckles to match you forward shanks.

The shanks behind the rear tires are closer to the ground and do not go as deep as a general rule. I have not found a way to make the travel range as long in the back as the front. Its not a real problem. The rear sweeps mainly are there to take out the tire tracks. Tines work well back there if you have them.

Thats the way I do it anyway.