Cub plowing
- Thread starter wesome
- Start date
Hi,
The rim is fastened to the wheel disc with 4 bolts.
The mountings on the rims are offset on the rim, they are not in the middle of the rim, that is why the width would change.
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual, showing the different rear wheel widths, and how they are obtained.
44" is the pic above the tire outline. It is the right rear wheel in the pic.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-46.jpg
You switch the rims and tires from side to side so the tire tread will be pointing ahead, like it is now.
Below the box to write a post is Attachments, click on that and then click on Add files, the pics stored in your computer will come on, click on the pic you want to post. If the pic is too big, it will not work.
Then you would need to resize the pic or pics.
The rim is fastened to the wheel disc with 4 bolts.
The mountings on the rims are offset on the rim, they are not in the middle of the rim, that is why the width would change.
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub operator's manual, showing the different rear wheel widths, and how they are obtained.
44" is the pic above the tire outline. It is the right rear wheel in the pic.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-46.jpg
You switch the rims and tires from side to side so the tire tread will be pointing ahead, like it is now.
Below the box to write a post is Attachments, click on that and then click on Add files, the pics stored in your computer will come on, click on the pic you want to post. If the pic is too big, it will not work.
Then you would need to resize the pic or pics.
Don McCombs
501 Club
Click on the full editor and you will get the attachments tab.
That will space it right, but then tread in tires will be backward. You want to swap sides with the tires. Move right tire to left and vice versa.wesome":p7el0pxu said:
When you plow, the first furrow is done with depth lever all the way forward for maximum depth. This is because your rear tire has no furrow to ride in. On the next pass, right rear tire will have a furrow to ride in, so you will need to adjust depth lever to get desired depth you want
Hi,
Click on the Post Reply box, to make a post, and the things I said should be there.
You don't turn the rims and tires around, then the tire tread would be backwards.
You move the right tire and rim to the left side, and the left tire and rim to the right side. The tire tread has to face ahead, like it is now.
If the tires were installed correctly on the rim, like they originally were, it will widen the tread to change sides with them.
The attachments on the rims have to go on the outside of the center disc.
The nuts on the 4 rim attaching bolts are on the backsides of the wheels.
The front axle has adjustable width too, it can be set to match the rear tread. Sometimes they are hard to move, the parts get stuck from rust. The operator's manual tells about setting the width.
A Cub is somewhat more stable the wider the wheel tread is.
Click on the Post Reply box, to make a post, and the things I said should be there.
You don't turn the rims and tires around, then the tire tread would be backwards.
You move the right tire and rim to the left side, and the left tire and rim to the right side. The tire tread has to face ahead, like it is now.
If the tires were installed correctly on the rim, like they originally were, it will widen the tread to change sides with them.
The attachments on the rims have to go on the outside of the center disc.
The nuts on the 4 rim attaching bolts are on the backsides of the wheels.
The front axle has adjustable width too, it can be set to match the rear tread. Sometimes they are hard to move, the parts get stuck from rust. The operator's manual tells about setting the width.
A Cub is somewhat more stable the wider the wheel tread is.
Yes, you want the front wheels to match. Where you've got them now you'll be in a constant battle to keep the right front tire just out of the furrow. When it's the same width (inside of sidewall, not tire center) you drop the right front tire into the furrow and hug the left edge. It'll plow beautifully.
For the life of me I don't know how you got a 193 plow 12" deep. You sure it's not 12 centimeters?????
Here's a video I took from the seat of my tractor at a plow day. You can see the right tire in the furrow and how it plows when everything is working properly: VIDEO ON YOUTUBE (Ignore the light. It shook loose earlier in the day.)
For the life of me I don't know how you got a 193 plow 12" deep. You sure it's not 12 centimeters?????
Here's a video I took from the seat of my tractor at a plow day. You can see the right tire in the furrow and how it plows when everything is working properly: VIDEO ON YOUTUBE (Ignore the light. It shook loose earlier in the day.)
Well, there may have been a tad bit of literary license taken Still, when one side was on the crest of the sideways dirt (that hadn't turned over) and the other side was in the furrow (it had to be at least 10") and I really thought I might turn over, it sure looked like a foot! Thanks again, guys.
Still, when one side was on the crest of the sideways dirt (that hadn't turned over) and the other side was in the furrow (it had to be at least 10") and I really thought I might turn over, it sure looked like a foot! Thanks again, guys.BTW and slightly different subject but in the same vein...I've read here about the dangers associated with jacking up the rear and how to wedge the front. Is this still the case when jacking both sides of the rear with two jacks such as when swapping out the right/left tires/rims?
Dale Finch
501 Club
Check this out! :shock:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=145&t=66743
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=145&t=66743
Hi,
Yes using the wedges is a good idea when removing rear wheels on a Cub. Hammer them in tight, and check them some to be sure they don't come loose during the work.
Make them so they don't hit on the small end before tightening up in the upper and lower sides.
Below is a pic from Dale Finch.
Yes using the wedges is a good idea when removing rear wheels on a Cub. Hammer them in tight, and check them some to be sure they don't come loose during the work.
Make them so they don't hit on the small end before tightening up in the upper and lower sides.
Below is a pic from Dale Finch.
