hannahscub
Member
Have a 1950 Cub with a Woods mower and the engine bogs down in higher grass and/or when going up a hill. I have worked on Farmall H and M governors before but never on a cub. Any advise is appreciated. Ed
Cub Governor issues
- Thread starter hannahscub
- Start date
Don McCombs
501 Club
Have you done a compression check to determine how the engine is functioning?
Is the governor lever seizing up on the shaft? (Common on Cubs) Be very careful not to break the lever forcing it to move. Some Kroil or Deep Creep may be your friend. (use a good penetrant, WD-40 not so good for this) Just let it soak for awhile. Come back later to help loosen by working it forward and back. Once you get it loose, oil it with motor oil to help keep it from sticking again.
Hi,
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the governor arm that Cubfriend was talking about above.
They commonly get tight from no lube.
Put penetrating oil where the cotter key is. It is visible from the left side of the Cub looking in by the fan. Use a good light to see it.
Put penetrating oil on the other end of the arm also, it is visible from the right side of the Cub.
Oil it with motor oil after it is free moving.
The shaft is solid on the governor, the arm turns on the shaft.
I sent you a PM.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the governor arm that Cubfriend was talking about above.
They commonly get tight from no lube.
Put penetrating oil where the cotter key is. It is visible from the left side of the Cub looking in by the fan. Use a good light to see it.
Put penetrating oil on the other end of the arm also, it is visible from the right side of the Cub.
Oil it with motor oil after it is free moving.
The shaft is solid on the governor, the arm turns on the shaft.
I sent you a PM.
Attachments
Greenthumbfarms
Well-known member
Frank is exactly right, we just did this to my 75 long stripe. Pull the gen/alternator off and you can work it back and forth easier while dousing in penetrant.Cubfriend":19tzrtvv said:
Gary Dotson
501 Club
It seems to me that your problem is more one of governor response. Lubing the lever, mentioned above is a very good idea but I don’t think that’s your problem. Make sure your linkage moves freely and lube the governor rock shaft where it passes through the cast pivot bracket on the left front of the engine. If it gets dry and rusty there, it will rob all the governors responsiveness.
A Cub can bog. mine do under moderate loads uphill and when mowing tall dense grass and brush hogging.
The oldest tired one slows uphill with no load. But is the workhorse for brush hogging and mowing field with brush hog blades. A hard load for the worn little engine.
At higher throttle the governor responds a bit faster but there can be (often is ) a lag still. It needs fuel too. Without a pump the entire fuel system from tank through carb needs to be the best it can be for best function.
Any resistance counts against an increased supply of fuel to compensate for the carb bowl getting a strong demand on it.
And that's before the fuel gets burned...
Engine timing and ignition are next. Again , the entire circuit at peak specs and condition matter. Delays and resistance all add up.
Anytime a carb is removed needs followed by "dialing" the carb in after reinstalling. It's relationship through linkage adjustment to the governor.
And that invites rechecking timing.
Get through being sure your linkage it happy and not too sloppy as suggested. Then check that fuel is available and flowing right at highest demand.
IF you have a vertical exhaust you'll have a better idea how it's burning , but after a hard run you can check the color of your exhausts exit.
We should always cool a Cub a bit before shut down. So figure it would be slightly different if shut down hot in mid hard run.
Same as sparkplug colors and deposits would.
My workhorse runs a little rich the way I have it set up. A stall can mean too rich. But by then , it's overloaded (the mower deck) too.
Too lean and it's so hungry it's running on it's tip toes. Causing lower power. In my opinion.
The oldest tired one slows uphill with no load. But is the workhorse for brush hogging and mowing field with brush hog blades. A hard load for the worn little engine.
At higher throttle the governor responds a bit faster but there can be (often is ) a lag still. It needs fuel too. Without a pump the entire fuel system from tank through carb needs to be the best it can be for best function.
Any resistance counts against an increased supply of fuel to compensate for the carb bowl getting a strong demand on it.
And that's before the fuel gets burned...
Engine timing and ignition are next. Again , the entire circuit at peak specs and condition matter. Delays and resistance all add up.
Anytime a carb is removed needs followed by "dialing" the carb in after reinstalling. It's relationship through linkage adjustment to the governor.
And that invites rechecking timing.
Get through being sure your linkage it happy and not too sloppy as suggested. Then check that fuel is available and flowing right at highest demand.
IF you have a vertical exhaust you'll have a better idea how it's burning , but after a hard run you can check the color of your exhausts exit.
We should always cool a Cub a bit before shut down. So figure it would be slightly different if shut down hot in mid hard run.
Same as sparkplug colors and deposits would.
My workhorse runs a little rich the way I have it set up. A stall can mean too rich. But by then , it's overloaded (the mower deck) too.
Too lean and it's so hungry it's running on it's tip toes. Causing lower power. In my opinion.