Last Fall We brought home another Cub,1948 "Plain Jane" model. Pretty simple with a magneto, manual lift, no hydraulics, starter, battery or generator. I have spent some time searching through older discussions about the early Cubs that have a free play adjusting yoke in the torque tube which this one has. The general opinions are that it can be adjusted there but not easily. Can it be converted to a later model external adjuster? If so, does the torque tube need to be changed also or is it a matter of only the moveable parts including the throw out bearing hanger? The tractor is already split and was considering the upgrade if possible.
Cub External Clutch Adjuster
- Thread starter F.POLLIO
- Start date
I have never done that conversion firsthand. But the housing is the same for either style adjuster. You have to change all the moving parts from the clutch pedal through the bearing hanger/holder/yoke. The throwout bearing itself is the same. If you look in the parts catalog at the page with the housing and clutch linkage, the parts that need to be changed are in a box in the diagram.
Thank You for the reply. I just looked at the parts diagram, and You are correct. The torque tube is the same. All of the other parts need changed except the clutch lever, spring, pin, and bearing. The parts should be available and will be worth it to Me to change them out. Eventually the manual lift and crank start might have to go!
Hi,
The parts might be available from J P Tractor Salvage, you can get to them near the bottom of the Forums page.
Below are pages from the Cub and LoBoy parts manual showing the 2 styles of clutch pedals, and linkages, so everyone can see it.
It looks like number, 4 the clutch pedal lever is the same for either style.
As I remember, you have to get to the bolt head that holds 4 to the pedal base from the rear of the clutch housing, so the housing has to be removed from the transmission to get to the bolt head.
4 keeps the clutch pedal from sliding out of the housing.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 07 - Drive Train/Page 07-04.jpg
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 07 - Drive Train/Page 07-05.jpg
The newer clutch rod, 20, is different than the older rod, it has no adjustable clevis.
You don't need the last part, 23, it is used on newer Cubs that have a safety start switch.
I would oil or grease the clutch pedal base as you put it together, the pedal base can get hard to move from having no lube.
I think they have said on here that the Cubs with no electrical system, or other extras are interesting to some people at tractor shows, if you are going to take it to shows.
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Glen, you are correct about removing the housing to access no 4's bolt head. Since the tractor is already split removing it should not be too much trouble. Will have to support the rear end safely. The kill switch wire and throttle are already removed. It looks like the left side brake shaft goes through clutch pedal assembly. The brake shaft might be trouble because the left brake was frozen on and had to disconnect the clevis to load the tractor. I have been spraying it with penetrating fluid, but heat may be needed to free it up. JP Salvage has been a great help for parts and will give them a call. Thank You