Cub Cadet 1450 Hyd lift delete?

S

Sod Buster Mn87

Member
I have a Cub Cadet with the hyd lift that has had "bugs" from day one. I have been thinking of deleting the hyd lift and plugging the lines from the hydro. My question is what model(s) of Cub Cadet could I take the parts off of to make it either manual or electric lift? I kind of like the idea of a "power" lift but I like better the simplicity of a manual lift. I'm thinking (a) Finding a Cub Cadet parts machine with the electric lift and changing the hyd cylinder to the electric jack screw and wiring a switch. Or (b) stripping it down and finding the manual handle and related parts.
Thanks,
Sod Buster
 
Look for a 1000 or a 800 and the 1250 came out with mechanical lift standard. There may be others, those are just the ones that were made during the 1450 production run.
 
Having owned MANY Cub Cadets, and probably worked on twice that many more, I cannot imagine what the problems are with your lift that you would ever consider removing it. I've never seen a problem with the hydraulic lift on a Cub Cadet, so I'm completely baffled by your idea. If it were me, I'd figure out the problems with your hydro lift and stick with it. The electric lifts were junk, so I certainly wouldn't recommend going there. The manual lifts are fine, but really take a lot of the "usefulness" away from the tractor. If you have a snow blower, snow blade, or tiller, the manual lift will need the spring assist feature for you to use those implements.

Maybe post your problems and we could help you solve them rather than go through switching out the lift completely!
 
gitractorman":cmbo4s61 said:
Maybe post your problems and we could help you solve them rather than go through switching out the lift completely!
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The valve is stiff to the point that it keeps breaking the hyd lever and I have never been able to get full range of movement out of the rock shaft. It won't even lift the snow blower high enough to clear the 1/2 inch high transition from concrete to gravel to get into the garage.
 
The stiff valve should be fixed easy enough with spraying some Kroil on the valve body where the lever attaches. I've never seen one so corroded that it would break the lever, but I suppose it's not out of the question. The rockshaft lift height is limited by the round knob on the right footwell of the tractor. If that cam is set wrong, it limits how far up/down the rockshaft can move. Also, there are a couple of different length lift rods that were offered with the various snow blowers, and the wrong combination works like you're describing. Given, the snow blowers never lift more than 2 or 3 inches, but they should lift that high if adjusted properly. Both items sound like maintenance and adjustments rather than a failure of the lift system.
 
gitractorman":1vqvwtyz said:
The stiff valve should be fixed easy enough with spraying some Kroil on the valve body where the lever attaches. I've never seen one so corroded that it would break the lever, but I suppose it's not out of the question. The rockshaft lift height is limited by the round knob on the right footwell of the tractor. If that cam is set wrong, it limits how far up/down the rockshaft can move. Also, there are a couple of different length lift rods that were offered with the various snow blowers, and the wrong combination works like you're describing. Given, the snow blowers never lift more than 2 or 3 inches, but they should lift that high if adjusted properly. Both items sound like maintenance and adjustments rather than a failure of the lift system.
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Thanks will try penetrating oil on valve body. The stop cam knob thing is adjusted all the way for up. Will try different lift rod for snow blower. ( when winter returns....)
 
AL Farmall Boy":3tck32a5 said:
Did you get it fixed Sod Buster?
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Gave up on the snow blower. Put a plow on the atv. Got the lift to work with a piece of ready rod but the non-hardened steel wallowed out where the hole is drilled through. Found out the lift arms underneath are tweaked.
 
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