Cub Cadet 108 Steering Wheel

R

Rudi

501 Club
Guys:

A little help and advice is needed. I am helping my buddy Gord re-do parts of his CC-108 that he acquired this spring.. lucky guy :!: :roll: :shock: :wink: :lol: :lol:

We have run into a couple of situations that we have been able to solve, but one is causing us some pain. We do not want to break the plastic collar around the steering wheel base.. but we need to remove the steering wheel.

IT WON'T COME OFF :!: :roll: :!: :roll: :!: :? :shock:

Any tips or suggestions? We have tried a number of things, but no dice. This puppy is on there..
 
Go to your local hardware store and buy 5/8 fine threaded bolt, about 3 to 4 inches long with a nut. Remove the steering wheel nut and place new nut on, turning down about half of the threads from the new nut, on the steering shaft. Screw the bolt down inside the new nut so it's tight. Sit on the tractor seat with a hammer, and place your knees under the outer part of the steering wheel. Push up against the steering wheel with your knees and hit the head of the bolt squarely. This may take a few blows to get the wheel to move. Don't place the new nut tight against the wheel leave a little room (a few threads 2 to 3 ). This is how I remove steering wheels and has worked every time.
 
I also remove them just like Roland said..so far the results are Leadfoot 9 - Cub Cadets 0.... 8)

Like Roland said...about 3 'shots' with the hammer, and the wheel 'pops up'. :D 8)

A quick tip...soak it for a day with your favorite penatrating oil first... 8)
 
"I also remove them just like Roland said..so far the results are Leadfoot 9 - Cub Cadets 0...."

RB 5 - Cub Cadets 0


:mrgreen:

:lol:
 
Guys:

Thanks for the tip... we tried penetrating oil for weeks... seems the thrust washer that is on there is on there good. Even tried a wrap around bearing puller... gently mind you.. nope, not even a budge.. so tomorrow we will give the 5/8" NF bolt a shot..

Will let you know if it is

Gord & Rudi - 1 Cub Cadet - 0

Gord & Rudi - 0 Cub Cadet - 1

:roll: :shock: :lol: :lol:
 
Rudi:

I have found, that a product called "PB Blaster" is an excellent solvent for loosening rusted parts, bolts & nuts. I have used it hundreds of times over the last five years and can't find anything that touches it. It puts WD40 to shame. I have also heard (I have never used this) that a product called Kroil works well too.

Just passing along some of my experience.

RB
 
RB:

PB Blaster is a product I have not been able to find here locally. Apparently it is now available in Halifax... depends on what chain stocks this stuff.. I think I might get Bruce to bring me up a can and I will try it.

I have been using Loctite's Solvo-Rust penetrating Oil.. Usually works real well for me. I am not sure what Gord was using.. I don't think it was WD-40 as that is basically just a water displacement forumula.. doesn't do much for penetrating anything, and zilch for lubrication. Just dries stuff up.. :roll: :shock: :!:

CaseIH actually had one that was pretty good.. but now that my local dealership has been liquidated.. I am not sure where to get it, as the other 2 dealerships within an hours drive do not carry it..

Kroil I have, and I use it for really stubborn stuff.. so far, it has proved to be quite effective. That should make ole Country happy as a lark :!: :shock: 8) :lol:

I wonder if a poll was to be conducted on the forum.. I wonder what the results would be... Kroil, PBB, S-R or WD-40???

And, I wonder which would fair the worst????
 
Rudi,

None of us are in any position to know which penetrant works best. We can form opinions based on our best guesses, but that's just what they are... guesses.

We can use a different one on a stuck part every day and when it finally comes loose, how can we tell it wasn't the first one we tried doing it's work over several days. Most of us would jump to the conclusion it was the last one tried, but who really knows?

Now, on the steering wheel... here's a trick I used on a Ford steering wheel that had been on since 1941. The hard rubber spokes and hub made heat or pounding impossible. Maybe the aircraft cable sling would work on a CC?

pulling_steering_wheel.jpg
 
George:

I remember seeing that elegant solution a time or two before and I have always kept it in the back of me brain.

But the steering wheel on that CC looks awful fragile.. just plastic.. no inner steel core at all.. and I would be terrified to break Gords steering wheel.... Oh boy.. that would not be a nice feeling.. :shock: :? :oops: :cry: :cry:

But if all else fails, that will be an option.. I am wondering if a wider sling might prove to be less dangerous to the plastic??? say a 2" canvas web sling.. like the ones we use to hoist Ellie and the other Flying Cubs :?: :?: :?:
 
RBedell's method has never failed me. However, one thing i have started doing that really makes this easier is to loosen the mounting bolts on the steering box. This way, the weight of the gearbox helps to seperate the steering wheel from the shaft. I just put a block underneath everything to stop the steering box from hitting the floor when i do this.
 
Ritter: I do not understand your post.

The steering box weights very, very little.....so it's weight will not be of any help.....

Plus, the whole 'effect' of putting your knees under the wheel and pushing up, would be nullified if the column is allowed to be loose. You said you "put a block underneath everything to stop the steering box from hitting the floor" From what I read in that, you have totally removed the 2 bolts holding the steering box casting to the frame??........

I'm not trying to 'rip' on you, I just don't understand how what you described will help get the steering wheel off easier..........
 
It's probably one of those I can show it to you and you'd understand it better than I can describe it deals. I don't take it as being ripped on; it's just a simple matter of misunderstanding. If you saw it, you'd see what I meant. When you loosen those bottom bolts, hitting the bolt attached to the top of the steering column drives everything down. Personally, I thought it was a lot easier than pushing up on the steering wheel with my knees (major knee injury from college). For the extra 3 minutes it takes, I found this easier for myself, even though I am tall. I need to start attaching small videos to my posts. :P
 
Ahhhhhhhh...now I understand why you are loosening the column bolts.
 
Guys:

Today is Gordon lovely wife Liliana's birthday.. so it is a Holiday at the Trail HouseHold.. and Gord is busy preparing something sumptious for he love..

But, he had time to send me an email.. and below is the emial I received from Gord:

Hi Rudi,

Would believe, a few hits with a hammer, and off it came! The wheel I mean.

How simple when you know what you are doing!

I got the bolt and nut[2/ 3/4"] for 2.03$ at Maritime Fasteners, and still have them.

The hood fits perfectly.

Must get back to cooking.
Click to expand...

So thanks guys for the tip.. it worked :!: and now it is

Gord & Rudi - 1 Cub Cadet - 0

And tomorrow is is a Holiday in our HouseHold as Emilie celebrates her 27th birthday.. :!: :idea: :wink: :shock: 8) 8) :lol:
 
Rudi":3k4ylbjx said:
Guys:

Today is Gordon lovely wife Liliana's birthday.. so it is a Holiday at the Trail HouseHold.. and Gord is busy preparing something sumptious for he love..

But, he had time to send me an email.. and below is the emial I received from Gord:

Hi Rudi,

Would believe, a few hits with a hammer, and off it came! The wheel I mean.

How simple when you know what you are doing!

I got the bolt and nut[2/ 3/4"] for 2.03$ at Maritime Fasteners, and still have them.

The hood fits perfectly.

Must get back to cooking.
Click to expand...

So thanks guys for the tip.. it worked :!: and now it is

Gord & Rudi - 1 Cub Cadet - 0

And tomorrow is is a Holiday in our HouseHold as Emilie celebrates her 27th birthday.. :!: :idea: :wink: :shock: 8) 8) :lol:
Click to expand...

Way to go fellas! 8)

As far as I know, there has not been a wheel that would not come off that way 8) 8)
 
Jim Becker":3je1f02b said:
Rudi":3je1f02b said:
Gord & Rudi - 1 Cub Cadet - 0
Click to expand...
Now if we can just train you to not use colors that are so close to the default background.
Click to expand...

Jim:

Sorry, but I find the orange "typ" forum style to be more to my liking and easier for me to read... That way I don't have a problem with the colours... they stand out which is why I do it.. I might have to limit that..

I will try to remember.. but I do like the effect.. and they work great for me in the scheme that I use. I take it your are using the silver????
 
Rudi":3vrkw63g said:
I will try to remember.. but I do like the effect.. and they work great for me in the scheme that I use. I take it your are using the silver????
Click to expand...
Yeah, and shade wise the color is about half way between yellow and white, so they both disappear.
 
Anyone ever seen that trick with air impact hammer? At the local lawn shop I watched a mechanic take a spindle pulley off a commercial mower, all he did was take the not off and put the air hammer with a blunt tip he placed it on the shaft and vibrated the pully right off with minimal effort. Maybe that would work on othere things.
 
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