Cub #3 spring tooth cultivator
- Thread starter BullDAWG
- Start date
Don McCombs
501 Club
I don't have one and never used one, but I doubt that it will cultivate 12 inches deep.
Rick Spivey
501 Club
I have one that I have only used once, but no, it won't go 12" deep. I would say it is limited to more like 3" - 6" deep at the maximum. Haven't checked the manual to see if it states a depth capability.
I was looking for it in the manual section but can't find it. 
edit: found it, its under cubs, I was looking under implements and such, not thinking they had cub implements listed in same folder as the cub parts and operator manuals. but I found it.... Bad news is it doesn't give depth specs, only spacing of shanks and width of shanks
edit: found it, its under cubs, I was looking under implements and such, not thinking they had cub implements listed in same folder as the cub parts and operator manuals. but I found it.... Bad news is it doesn't give depth specs, only spacing of shanks and width of shanks
Don't own one, haven't used one, but I have an opinion. 
That is I don't think a Cub 3 will go 12" deep because the depth wheel adjustment won't go that high. It's not made to because it's a cultivator, not a plow. Cultivating is disturbing the top couple inches to knock out weeds and break up the crust of soil on the surface to allow moisture to penetrate better.
You could probably make it go 12" deep in loose soil by smaller gauge wheels or modifying how the normal ones mount. But then if the soil is loose to 12" why would you need to loosen it? Even then would a Cub or SA pull it at that depth? Would depend somewhat on what width shovels were mounted on it. The wider they are the more oomph it would take. Just estimating here but say 2" wide times 7 shanks is 14" width. A Cub 193 plow is 12" and a Cub 3 would not be turning it all at once but dragging 7 tines through the dirt like little boat anchors.
That is I don't think a Cub 3 will go 12" deep because the depth wheel adjustment won't go that high. It's not made to because it's a cultivator, not a plow. Cultivating is disturbing the top couple inches to knock out weeds and break up the crust of soil on the surface to allow moisture to penetrate better. You could probably make it go 12" deep in loose soil by smaller gauge wheels or modifying how the normal ones mount. But then if the soil is loose to 12" why would you need to loosen it? Even then would a Cub or SA pull it at that depth? Would depend somewhat on what width shovels were mounted on it. The wider they are the more oomph it would take. Just estimating here but say 2" wide times 7 shanks is 14" width. A Cub 193 plow is 12" and a Cub 3 would not be turning it all at once but dragging 7 tines through the dirt like little boat anchors.
You will need a full fledged chisel plow to go that deep. And that's deep even for a chisel plow. In my soils, the general recommendation is 10 hp per shank.
This spring a friend deep ripped all our corn and soybean land. He ran 5 shanks around 14" deep, and used a JD 4640 making around 150 HP. It was all it wanted.
Point is to work as deep as you are talking about you are going to need more tractor.
Al
This spring a friend deep ripped all our corn and soybean land. He ran 5 shanks around 14" deep, and used a JD 4640 making around 150 HP. It was all it wanted.
Point is to work as deep as you are talking about you are going to need more tractor.
Al
Rick Spivey
501 Club
I agree with Al, I had a subsoiler (1 point) that probably didn't go to 12" deep; maybe more like 8" to 10" maximum. It was made for a 140, which is why Al ended up with it. But I tried it once on my Cub. The Cub barely pulled it in soft soil, and it was dangerous because it caused the tractor to "lurch" when it hit hard spots. A cub won't pull anything that is 12" in the ground.
Cub-Bud
501 Club
Here's a picture of mine; it's not for working, only for looking at.
http://photos.cubfest.com/albums/userpics/10057/normal_IMG_1503a.jpg
http://photos.cubfest.com/albums/userpics/10057/normal_IMG_1503a.jpg
Why then did IH make this stiff shank ripper if the cub can't pull them ???? Can't find the picture but I've seen somewhere in pdf manual section an image of a cub pulling the stiff shanks and it looked to be over 10" deep, maybe my thinking of what those shanks are in length is way off but it had them over half way in ground closer to 2/3's buried.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=21839&mode=view
And Cub-Bud, thats a fine example of the #3... I use all my equipment, I restore them, they look purdy for a little while n then they get USED. So they never stay purdy for long...
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=21839&mode=view
And Cub-Bud, thats a fine example of the #3... I use all my equipment, I restore them, they look purdy for a little while n then they get USED. So they never stay purdy for long...
Ol Timey Farming LLC":22iklkny said:Why then did IH make this stiff shank ripper if the cub can't pull them ????
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=21839&mode=view
And Cub-Bud, thats a fine example of the #3... I use all my equipment, I restore them, they look purdy for a little while n then they get USED. So they never stay purdy for long...
I expect because some of that stuff is for a 140. I don't think that's a Cub toolbar either.
A Cub is just not going to do what you're talking about. Rick's subsoiler is all my Super A wants if I put it way down and it has a lot more a$$ than a Cub.
A Cub-3 cultivator is a great tool for shallower work, say after a decent plowing job. I would use mine when I wanted to plant but the ground had been rained on and a few weeds were starting to poke through.
Al
Super A":12n645qv said:Ol Timey Farming LLC":12n645qv said:Why then did IH make this stiff shank ripper if the cub can't pull them ????
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/download/file.php?id=21839&mode=view
And Cub-Bud, thats a fine example of the #3... I use all my equipment, I restore them, they look purdy for a little while n then they get USED. So they never stay purdy for long...
I expect because some of that stuff is for a 140. I don't think that's a Cub toolbar either.
A Cub is just not going to do what you're talking about. Rick's subsoiler is all my Super A wants if I put it way down and it has a lot more a$$ than a Cub.
A Cub-3 cultivator is a great tool for shallower work, say after a decent plowing job. I would use mine when I wanted to plant but the ground had been rained on and a few weeds were starting to poke through.
Al
Well this CUB looks like its pulling that ok, guess that guy added enough "A$$" to let it pull it
Funny this came up, since I have been ripping all day today. Used the 300 and a single shank ripper, and ran it about 24" deep. Let me tell ya, its all the old gal wanted. Ran in 2nd, but the TA got a workout. I know my Cub couldn't pull it even 12" deep in our ground so I figure the one in the illustration above can't be in over 8.
Is there any particular reason you couldn't just use a moldboard plow? Even in hard ground, a disk plow will do a fine job. And, those implements are easier to find than a #3 cultivator or a ripper. I only ask out of curiosity.
Mac
Is there any particular reason you couldn't just use a moldboard plow? Even in hard ground, a disk plow will do a fine job. And, those implements are easier to find than a #3 cultivator or a ripper. I only ask out of curiosity.
Mac
I've run the non Cub spring harrow.
Just to kill some weeds and scuff up the surface to seed rye and clover.
I'd not want to go more than four inches deep where I'm working soil. Repeated dragging will go to 3 inches in dry areas. Have not tried deeper.
Not spraying means not wanting to expose weeds in the seedbank to sunlight.
And ...My loam is not deep either. Don't want to wreck it.
Just to kill some weeds and scuff up the surface to seed rye and clover.
I'd not want to go more than four inches deep where I'm working soil. Repeated dragging will go to 3 inches in dry areas. Have not tried deeper.
Not spraying means not wanting to expose weeds in the seedbank to sunlight.
And ...My loam is not deep either. Don't want to wreck it.
Thanks everyone, now let me try to answer ya'all.
Glen, thanks, if wheel n tire are only 8" then that wold make more sense. Its probably going 7-9" then in photo.
Mac, I got a cub-193 and a A-295 two bottom plows. I've also looked into disk type chisel plows as they use less HP. But can't find small (2-3 disks) (not small disks, they are over 30") pull types. And they cost way more than chisel plows w/ shanks. The reason I'm looking at chisel plows is because I'm doing raised bed farming. I want to only chisel the raised beds to restore drainage. So actually 6" of my deep tillage is loose raised beds, only 6" more is the hardpan I'd be chiseling (12" total depth).
Eugene, I'm growing organically. I have looked into forage radishes. But because of timing and basically no winter here (zone 8b) I can't grow them as I need legumes growing at that time as nitrogen is what my soil needs the most. I plant balansa clover in fall and kill it 3-4 weeks before I plant an acre of mate-erz, an acre of okra, n peas/beans n peppers in other plots. Along with perennial beds where I grow garlic, onions, herbs, and flowers to transplant into cash crops, as they make organic poison (daisies),repel bad bugs, attracts good bugs etc.And the clover also attracts parasitic wasps, lady bugs, and bees earlier than my vegetables. It also adds 3000-6000 lbs of biomass per acre besides adding 200 lbs of nitrogen p/a. The radishes do add biomass, just not as much, and no nitrogen, but they do break up the soil, but stink when rotting in the ground. But to be fair, me getting 60 tons of breader chicken litter, composting it and spreading it every year I'm not sure if the rotten radishes would be a pleasant change for my neighbors or just another reason to complain. LOL
Glen, thanks, if wheel n tire are only 8" then that wold make more sense. Its probably going 7-9" then in photo.
Mac, I got a cub-193 and a A-295 two bottom plows. I've also looked into disk type chisel plows as they use less HP. But can't find small (2-3 disks) (not small disks, they are over 30") pull types. And they cost way more than chisel plows w/ shanks. The reason I'm looking at chisel plows is because I'm doing raised bed farming. I want to only chisel the raised beds to restore drainage. So actually 6" of my deep tillage is loose raised beds, only 6" more is the hardpan I'd be chiseling (12" total depth).
Eugene, I'm growing organically. I have looked into forage radishes. But because of timing and basically no winter here (zone 8b) I can't grow them as I need legumes growing at that time as nitrogen is what my soil needs the most. I plant balansa clover in fall and kill it 3-4 weeks before I plant an acre of mate-erz, an acre of okra, n peas/beans n peppers in other plots. Along with perennial beds where I grow garlic, onions, herbs, and flowers to transplant into cash crops, as they make organic poison (daisies),repel bad bugs, attracts good bugs etc.And the clover also attracts parasitic wasps, lady bugs, and bees earlier than my vegetables. It also adds 3000-6000 lbs of biomass per acre besides adding 200 lbs of nitrogen p/a. The radishes do add biomass, just not as much, and no nitrogen, but they do break up the soil, but stink when rotting in the ground. But to be fair, me getting 60 tons of breader chicken litter, composting it and spreading it every year I'm not sure if the rotten radishes would be a pleasant change for my neighbors or just another reason to complain. LOL
Mac AR":2btuewhd said:
I have another post about making this implement along with other things (making a do-all implement, questions). http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=105664
I'm hopping since its only 6" of hard soil and 12" total depth that the cub and SA can pull 2-4 shanks. My plan is to have the shanks on a 2" square toolbar so I can adjust the # of chisel shanks and spacing. If needed I can go down to 2 shanks and chisel up a row on one side then turn around and do other side of raised bed going back the opposite direction. But if needed I can do 1 shank. It just would take WAY more time and fuel ripping 3-4 time per row to get the results I want.