Clutch Inspection

Hi,
I guess you mean the pin at the rear of the throwout bearing holder. You will just have to keep trying to get at it.
You could show the other drivers the Cub disassembled, and tell them this is a lot of work, the clutch wasn't meant to be slipped, it wears out it's lining.
Just a suggestion.
 
I got the pin out of the back of the throwout bearing holder ok without any problems. What I need to do is replace the identical pin on the other end of the clutch actuating shaft yoke back at the clutch pedal lever just below the driveshaft in the torque tube. I can reach back in there with my arm, and feel all around the yoke, but the torque tube is so small in diameter that I can't seem to get a tool in there to grip the pin head so I can unbend the cotter pin protruding from the other side of the yoke, and pull it out. I thought of trying to tie a piece of wire on the looped end of the cotter pin and just try unbending it by pulling it out. But I don't know if the cotter pin will unbend without breaking the wire. And as for pictures, I don't have one of those electronic cameras or a cell phone and don't know how to post pictures if I borrowed one from one of the grandchildren.
 
I can't imagine changing that pin without splitting the tractor at the transmission. I'd have to want to change it real bad.
 
Hi,
That pin is easier to get at from the rear of the clutch housing, after the housing is removed from the transmission.
I don't know if you can tell if there is looseness, or wear in it, or if there was visible wear in the forward pin you took out.
You may have to leave the pin that is there. You could oil it, so it doesn't wear for some time.
 
There is about 1/8" of free play back in either that rear pin or the holes in the yoke or clutch pivot arm. So I am not sure if the holes in the yoke/pivot arm are wallowed out or if the pin itself is worn. But this may be the source of a lot of play in the clutch actuator linkage. If I have 1/8" give in that arm at this connection pin which is about a 2-1/2" radius, that would translate into maybe 1/2" play in the clutch pedal movement. So, adjusting the clutch pedal for the 1" clearance before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate fingers is really a 1-1/2" free play.
 
After careful reevaluation and reading recommendations from everybody, I decided to leave that rear pin connecting the rear of the clutch actuating rod to the clutch pedal lever. But now I see how all of these gearbox gear grinding sequences develop. When there is a new clutch, new throw-out bearing and tight fittings in all the supporting apparatus for the throw-out bearing, and the correct clutch fingers have been set along with the 1" clearance of the clutch pedal, that lever connected to the clutch pedal and clutch actuating rod is cocked slightly to the rear with the pedal at the stop. Pushing the clutch pedal down rotates that lever over the top of its rotation and continues to a position slightly forward, allowing maximum forward-backward movement of the clutch operating rod and maximum opening-closing of the clutch. As everything wears, we adjust the clutch pedal forward to gain back that 1" pedal clearance, but in the meantime that lever inside that operates the actuating rod also moves forward. When this continues eventually that lever will be going up and down, not moving the clutch actuating rod at all. So the design causes the clutch disengagement issues as everything wears. Its possible to make up some of this loss of movement by reducing the clearance between the clutch fingers and throw-out bearing below the listed minimum, or by reducing the free-play of the clutch pedal below that 1" specified.
 
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