chainsaw bar lube

J

jakeesspoo

Well-known member
Ran out of chainsaw bar lube today and was to lazy, or rather did not want to take the time to run up to the grain elevator to get some. I used some 80w90 gear oil instead and it seemed to work alright. The chain needs to come off soon anyways and be sharpened so I figure I couldnt really hurt much. What do you think? Actually I dont think this is the first time I have done this...
 
Jake, I'm sure you're not the only one who has done this either. It might not adhere as well as bar lube but I don't see a problem with using it.
 
I've use gear oil before also, and one time i used straight motor oil. Gear oil did okay, motor oil let chain get way too warm. But the motor oil didn't stink as bad. Gear oil smells bad enough in a jug but warm it a little and sling it into the air and you get the idea what a rotten dinosaur smells like.


Russell
 
Always the contrarian, I use chain and bar oil for another purpose. I use it for way oil on machine tools. It will still be there the next time the tool is used. Both way oil and chain and bar oil need the stickyness (if there's such a word) to keep it in place.
 
George,
Do you think it (bar oil) would work to lubricate a lathe center? :?: :idea: :idea: I am real good at smoking them... I tend to run them a little tight I guess...

Brian
 
Brian. Buy yourself a tube of "centerlube"...........

George. I use way-lube in the chain saw. Works good.......... :)

Jake. It's the bar you want to lubricate to prevent from over-heating and ware. The chain is cheaper to replace!
 
I used to use whatever oil I had handy. Now I only use bar oil. I came to find out that engine oil is way to thin. The problem is not so much with the chain but with the bar. I have seen sparks come off between the bar and chain in dry old trees. And thought wow thats a hard tree sparks are coming off the chain :!: The bar need good lube to last you need to check to see that the chain does not rock too much in the bar grove, that the chain does not bottom in the grove and the outside of the bar does not cup the bottom of the chain. I took my bar tool and flattened it so I can clean the bottom of the grove when I change blades. Always make sure the oil hole is clear in both the bar and chainsaw when putting it back together.

I haven't used a chainsaw file in fifteen years. I go to the woods with three chains and when they are done so am I. They last a loong time if you don't touch the dirt or cut wood that hasn't been drug through it. I will not use a chain if it is even slightly dull. It just builds heat and wastes time. Also check the bottom of the chain to see how much wear is on it. Back when I used whatever oil I found you can where off enought metal from the bottm of the chain to break it at the link pins.

Billy
 
actually knowone has ever showed me how to sharpen a chain with a file or whatnot. I dont think my dad knows how either. Before I moved out to the farm we were "tinners" and didnt use chain saws much, If we did we just borrowed them and returned them full of oil and gas. Im gonna have to find someone to show me how to sharpen them it would save me time and money. I was just gonna take a pile of chains I have to a old man down the road who has a "sharpening service" sign in his yard. Although my Uncle told me he's getting pretty old and his work a little sloppy. Guess I need to learn to sharpen on my own, how hard is it? I wouldnt mind trying on a few of my chains. I remember getting a file with my saw although I no longer know where it is, Im sure there cheap though :)
 
A couple of yrs ago I finally broke down and bought my own electric chain sharpener. What a good investment. I quickly discovered the chains that had been previuosly sharpened where grossly overdone and the reverse pitch would not have equal material removed. The shops are in such a hurry they just hog your chain to where only about 3 sharpening and its done. I've found you can sharpen a chain dozens of times if you take your time and remove only enough material to make it sharp again. Also the convinence allows me to always have a sharp chain. Most home units will cost between $130.00 and $150.00. I won't take a chain anywhere again.
 
Jake
There is a device you can obtain that will clamp onto your bar of the chain saw.You can set your angle for your chain.Set the file in it and you are away.You do not have to take the chain of the saw either, just tighen it up.Just re ajust your chain after you are done.Using any oil other than chain oil for a period of time,will burn the bar and wear it out very fast. 8) :) Bruce
 
I have been sharpening my chains for many years. I use a Dremel tool with the proper diameter sharpening stone. I don't use a jig or fixture to maintain the proper angle, I just "eyeball" it. The worst that can happen is that the cut starts running at an angle through the log. After a while, your accuracy improves. I only sharpen enough to give me a sharp edge. Most commmercial sharpeners don't care how much material is removed as long as the chain is sharpened. I have recently prepared 3-4 sharpened chains to cut up 2 felled trees. I always carry a file with me in case unforeseen problems dull my chains prematurely. I don't know if it is wise, but I have been thinking about using other lubricants, such as trans fluid, which I have a lot of, to lubricate the chain. What do you think? Larry
 
My grandmother bought a McCullough 130 back in the 1950s. My uncle used it for 30 years, then gave it to me because he couldn't easily get parts for it anymore. Seems there have been at least 2 more model 130 produced since that one. McC calls for 30W motor oil for the chain, it's cut hundreds of cords of firewood and now needs a new bar after all these years. I turned the bar over but it still is worn on one side and the center groove isn't deep enough to carry the chain.

The secret is to keep the chain/bar well oiled, no matter what the lube is. Dirt is your enemy. I wish someone would make carbide tip chain saw chains!
 
There are carbide tipped chains. Zip Pen used to have them. They were a big out fir back in the 70's. They are smaller and have a diffferent name now. can't think of it at the minute.
My son and I had a tree cutting business when he first got out of high school. We used a belsaw sharpener. We kept all our sharpened chains stored in a gallon can filled 50 50 with kero and 30 wt non detergent. We would change 3 0r 4 chains a day and just touch them up. We would sharpen a chain 20 or more times. Every now and then we had to take the depth rakers down so you get sufficient bite. You don't want to take them too far or you get chatter or hogging. A loose chain will chatter and hammer the bar. Trying to cut with a dull chain is the worst enemy of a chain saw. You want to see chips flying out and not dust. Most home owner type saws are underpowered from what I see. I still cut and use 10 cord a year.

Bill
 
I just cut a couple of trees down. They had been dead for some time, the branches having fallen off.
126375090.jpg

This shows the slanted cutting that happens when the chain isn't sharpened equally. I'm a little out of practice. :oops: I could have done better if I hadn't operated the chainsaw with one hand and held my favorite beverage with the other. :shock: That's what it looks like, anyway.
126375310.jpg

This is a beech tree that was hollow at the base.
126375450.jpg

You have to be very careful when cutting a hollow base tree. One just doesn't know if the stump will break away in the process of cutting it down.
 
Hollow trees are the worst. They are the unmost dangerous. I generally try to cut the above the rot if in the open or bring them down in small pieces if not. One fell 90 degrees from where it was supposed to because of the rot.

Bill
 
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