Carburetor Rebuild

Indy61: Yes, I completely removed the strainer assembly and cleaned it and verified it was not plugged prior to my last post.

Glen: I have removed the main jet and have blown it out. I can see thru the hole that it is not plugged. It was replaced new as part of the rebuild also.

I agree that it seems to be starving for fuel, just do not know which way to go. Seems like such a simple carburetor... :shock:

Thanks for the input... and it will probably turn out to be something simple I overlooked.

Any other thoughts appreciated! Also, have you seen this issue on another thread in this blog?
 
Have you checked to see if you are sucking air in around the gasket where the carb. bolts to the manifold. That can make it want more fuel if there is extra air. Spray some carb. cleaner around the gasket to see if the RPM’s pick up.
 
Welcome to the forum!

Here's a link to some carb threads in the How To Forum: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=139. I'd suggest the threads in the list by Lurker Carl or Don McCombs. Next time you feel the carb is ready to go, be sure to go through the "How to Check the Fuel Level in the Carburetor". That will tell you a lot about what's going on inside your carb, including whether your float is really shutting off the needle valve or not.

TIP: I make my own gaskets. Faster to get and cheaper than I can buy anywhere pre-made. I buy a roll of 1/8" thick cork gasket material from my local auto parts store. Use a hole punch set from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html), an extra fine black Sharpie ink pen or ball-point pen to trace the object and use an X-ACTO knife (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-2-Knife-Safety-Cap/dp/B000V1QV7O) to cut it out. Do so many that I have several different gasket templetes made out of mylar that I can trace. Also use the oil-gas resistant (gray) fiber material gasket roll on other type of gaskets like the carb-to-manifold gasket. Good stuff.
 
There was a really good thread explaining all of this by another member on here. I will try to find it, and post the link later. Long story short, he replaced the rubber coated tip needle with an all metal Kohler replacement that also happened to be a bit lighter. Problem solved. If someone else knows which thread I am talking about, please post the link if I don't get it done sooner.
 
Hi,
Too bad you are still having problems with the carb.

Below is a listing for a new needle and seat from TM Tractor, the originals are all metal. You can look at the pic.

I have read on here before that some of the guys have trouble with the rubber tipped needle sticking.
I don't know if the kit you put in it has a rubber tipped needle or not.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/5183fp.htm
 
I know McDondald Carb. has a new style needle and seat that is different from the old style. Bob McCarty had one at the Barnyard Bash. Not sure how good it is working. You may want to PM Bob to see how he likes it.
 
One more question, have you checked to see if your carburetor body has any warpage where the two halves meet? Quite common on these carburetors; many of us have made a straightening jig to take the warp out. Do a search on carb straightening and you should find many examples, or you might have someone close by with a jig....
 
Bob just rebuilt a carb for me with the new type needle and seat. Works perfectly and runs smooth...keep in mind it has only been on the tractor for 4 days. :)
 
Thank you all for your input. I followed all your suggestions, but in the end, the original carb was too much for my limited skills. :) After the weeks of messing around, I bought a carburetor. Works PERFECT...up and running the first time it was fired! At some point I will send this original to a pro and have it checked out. Once again, Thank you!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top