New to this site and have a Cub I am trying to get running. No serial number but the block number is 555 so I'm going with a '47. Carb is a 251234R93. have a rebuild kit and was looking for info on tearing it down. My question today is how does one remove the filter screen at the fuel inlet? it's set in with some sort of sleeve and I don't want to destroy it trying to get it out. Any ideas?
Carburetor Rebuild
- Thread starter AwFade
- Start date
Hi,
Welcome to the website.
When separating the 2 halves of the carburetor, pull them straight apart, do not twist them apart.
There is a small idle tube that screws into the top half, and sticks down into the lower half. It can break if you twist the halves apart.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the IH carburetor. The tube is number 10 in the pic.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg
Below are the carb parts TM Tractor sells. There is a new inlet screen there, if you need it.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/fl_001newparts.htm
Clean the carb well, and use air to blow out all the passages, be sure they are open. Use your safety goggles when using the air.
Sounds like you have one of the first Cubs, if you have serial number 555. Sometimes the engines are replaced by someone.
You could check the casting codes on the larger castings, and see what year they were made.
Below is info at TM Tractor, showing where the casting codes are, and how to read them.
The code on the clutch housing is usually partly behind the clutch pedal.
http://www.tmtractor.com/id/castdate_loc.htm
http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm
I guess you are in the northwest somewhere too.
Welcome to the website.
When separating the 2 halves of the carburetor, pull them straight apart, do not twist them apart.
There is a small idle tube that screws into the top half, and sticks down into the lower half. It can break if you twist the halves apart.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the IH carburetor. The tube is number 10 in the pic.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg
Below are the carb parts TM Tractor sells. There is a new inlet screen there, if you need it.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/fl_001newparts.htm
Clean the carb well, and use air to blow out all the passages, be sure they are open. Use your safety goggles when using the air.
Sounds like you have one of the first Cubs, if you have serial number 555. Sometimes the engines are replaced by someone.
You could check the casting codes on the larger castings, and see what year they were made.
Below is info at TM Tractor, showing where the casting codes are, and how to read them.
The code on the clutch housing is usually partly behind the clutch pedal.
http://www.tmtractor.com/id/castdate_loc.htm
http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm
I guess you are in the northwest somewhere too.
staninlowerAL
501 Club
You can probably clean it with carb cleaner spray and compressed air. No need to remove it.
Crimson Tim
501 Club
staninlowerAL":gqby0qf8 said:
Yes. I have a couple on zenith carbs that are soldered onto the elbow fitting, which makes it easier to get to than embedded in the IH carb. Either way, back-flush the screen with carb cleaner, and you should be fine. I have had known detritus (rust flakes) that came out easy peasey this way.
Don McCombs
501 Club
Stan is correct for most instances. But, for those difficult obstructions, use the method that Frank described. I use a 3/32 Allen wrench to push it out from behind. Then you can scrub it on both sides with carb cleaner and a brass bristle brush. To re-seat it, push it back in with the eraser end of a standard sized pencil.
Don McCombs
501 Club
If the Cub has not been started in some time, be sure to prime the oil pump before attempting a start. A quick search will get you the procedure.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60#p791710
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765&start=60#p791710
SO I have meticulously took the carb apart and rebuilt it with a complete kit. I put it back on the tractor. When I turned the fuel on, it drips at a pretty good rate out of the drip hole. I adjusted the float to the specs. I replaced the float needle cage assembly according to the instructions. After trying to figure this out, I took the carb apart and put the old float needle cage assembly back in. Same results... What did I miss? :?
Hi,
If everything is set right, and no dirt in the needle and seat, it sounds like you have needles and seats that don't seal.
I bought a new needle and seat in the past that didn't seal.
You could tell the place that you bought it from about it, and see if they will replace the parts.
If everything is set right, and no dirt in the needle and seat, it sounds like you have needles and seats that don't seal.
I bought a new needle and seat in the past that didn't seal.
You could tell the place that you bought it from about it, and see if they will replace the parts.
Float move freely? Could it be rubbing on the side of the float bowl?
Frozenstate
Well-known member
Does your float float. Make sure it hasn't leaked a little, shake it and see if you hear anything in it. Also, double check your float setting. Mine leaked and I had set it wrong, it stopped after I set it correctlym
Don McCombs
501 Club
Try a little Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant on the discharge nozzle and needle cage threads. Use it sparingly and let it cure for at least 24 hours before re-introducing fuel.
Thanks for all the insight guys. The float appears OK as I tested it's air tightness. It also seems to move freely in the bowl, but I will keep working on it. I bought the kit from Steiner and have already asked them some questions that they responded to promptly. FYI, the Cub and I are in Damascus, Oregon.
Allen
Allen
After taking the carb apart half a dozen times, I looked at ALL the parts to see what may be different and the gaskets are not the same. I put the old gasket(left in photo) back on and the issue with the leaking fuel went away. Not sure why the curved slot in the new gasket, but the old one took care of the issue. Now working on the timing...
I'm back... have had the carb off the tractor a dozen times. It starts and idles with the choke on, but dies if throttle increases or the choke is opened.
* rebuilt carb with a complete kit from Steiner. Soaked in carb cleaner, blew out ports multiple times, had minor issues with other parts as noted
previously in this thread
Note that the fuel nozzle from Steiner is 0.060. The existing nozzle was 0.10. I have swapped them back and forth with no difference.
* Fuel tank, while not new is clean and no rust inside. New IH Cap, new sediment bowl filter and gasket, new fuel line.
* Oil pressure comes up and is good.
* All new ignition parts; plugs, points, condenser, wires, etc. New magneto coil. Have double/triple checked all gaps.
*Followed this video to check the timing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqucExhxXdE
Any help is appreciated. I am dying to get this baby running.
Allen
PS I made a video of what happens but not sure how to post it.
* rebuilt carb with a complete kit from Steiner. Soaked in carb cleaner, blew out ports multiple times, had minor issues with other parts as noted
previously in this thread
Note that the fuel nozzle from Steiner is 0.060. The existing nozzle was 0.10. I have swapped them back and forth with no difference.
* Fuel tank, while not new is clean and no rust inside. New IH Cap, new sediment bowl filter and gasket, new fuel line.
* Oil pressure comes up and is good.
* All new ignition parts; plugs, points, condenser, wires, etc. New magneto coil. Have double/triple checked all gaps.
*Followed this video to check the timing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqucExhxXdE
Any help is appreciated. I am dying to get this baby running.
Allen
PS I made a video of what happens but not sure how to post it.
Hi,
I know you have had the carburetor apart several times, but if it only runs with the choke on, it sounds like the main jet is plugged. I would look at it, if you didn't.
It is the six sided brass colored part low on the side of the carb, in the 1st pic below.
It screws out, remove it and clean it with a wire, like in the 2nd pic, then wash it, or blow it out with air. Use safety goggles when using the air.
Use a wire that is slightly smaller than the hole, do not force a bigger wire through the hole, the hole has to be the size it is made.
I know you have had the carburetor apart several times, but if it only runs with the choke on, it sounds like the main jet is plugged. I would look at it, if you didn't.
It is the six sided brass colored part low on the side of the carb, in the 1st pic below.
It screws out, remove it and clean it with a wire, like in the 2nd pic, then wash it, or blow it out with air. Use safety goggles when using the air.
Use a wire that is slightly smaller than the hole, do not force a bigger wire through the hole, the hole has to be the size it is made.
