Jim in SC":3gbsmkn9 said:
I've been fighting the carb on my H for some time now - it's original to the tractor (1951). Just finished rebuilding my steering and wanted to take it out for a test drive. Got it started and out of the barn and then it died. Can't get it started again now after trying all afternoon. I believe it's flooding. Any advice on two questions?
1. Is this a "simple" fix - lol, probably answered my own question there! I know it won't be "simple"...
2. If I decide to replace the carb, am I better off getting a professionally rebuilt one, or should I get a new aftermarket? I'm not real confident in my ability to rebuild it, although I did rebuild a '51 model Farmall Cub carb successfully.
Looking for some advice. Thanks.
My first bit of advice is to figure out why it won't start before randomly throwing parts at it. My second bit of advice is in my opinion most carbs don't need rebuilt, just cleaned. Rebuild kits are most often sold to those who are grasping at straws for a magical fix, and not doing my first bit of advice.
Running then die to me means something changed and in a hurry. Float needle valve stuck open, or something plugged up and not getting gas. Since you say you think it's flooding I take it that it's getting gas. So that eliminates the gas not being turned on, or something plugging up the sediment bowl screen or carb inlet screen. With repeated cranking and not starting it is possible to get gas dripping from a normally functioning carb. The engine is sucking in gas vapor but not burning it. Gas vapor in the manifold condenses back to liquid gas and runs back down into the carb air side.
Time for basic no start troubleshooting, fuel and fire, in the right amounts at the right time. (since it was recently running and nothing has been done to affect the timing, actual engine timing is not suspect at the moment)
Are you sure you're getting a good strong spark at the plugs?
Are the plugs wet with gas after cranking for a little bit?
And to answer question #1, easier to work on than a Cub carb, no warpage to deal with. I soaked mine in straight simple green for like a week while I brushed and scraped through the caked on grease on the outside every now and then as I walked by. Hosed it off, sprayed it down with carb cleaner, and reassembled with a new gasket and packing. Set the rough adjustments, bolted it on and started it up and then fine tuned it. As for #2, only if you drop it during #1 and break it. Honestly, I think you may have to throw it at the floor for that to happen.
Final thought, I recently had a Cub that hadn't been used for awhile. Started it up and gas was pouring out the air side of the carb. Took the carb off, split it and the pin the float pivots on was corroded (as well as everything in there) and the float wouldn't move. Pop the pin out, a little emery cloth, reassemble, check for float easy movement, reinstall, drive off.
