C60 valve seats

Beefie

Active member
Grabbed a bare block today for $20 looks like valve seats burnt. Is there hardened replacements available? Not 100% sure i got matched main bearing caps but got a set. Ciuldnt pass on $20. Plus got me a getaway to Va Beach
 
Yes, check with an auto machine shop for details and pricing/installation. JMHO Stan
I have my own machine tools, lathe and bridgeport and fairly good with wrenches. I trust nobody to do machine work especially since I am a machinist. Just thought steiner, asap or tm might have.
Thanks ill look around
 
You're ahead of the game. You might contact tst for some sources information. He's on this forum and does rebuilds in his shop. JMHO Stan
He responds to most of my posts so ill let him chime in. Cant see letting a crack free block go dor melt down if i can save it. Plus it gets me a back up block
 
Last time I needed parts like that, the machine shop could source them cheaper and faster than I could.
 
exhaust seat 245-1187-1, make sure the main caps are matched to the block in the correct order, seats cut em out on the mill and press in new ones, for valves buy the kit it comes with guides, valves, springs, keepers, they made 2 different rods also and they need to match the crank as they are different where the radius is
 
exhaust seat 245-1187-1, make sure the main caps are matched to the block in the correct order, seats cut em out on the mill and press in new ones, for valves buy the kit it comes with guides, valves, springs, keepers, they made 2 different rods also and they need to match the crank as they are different where the radius is
I think I remember that the different rods are linked to the change from flat to domed pistons but I could be wrong. Stan
 
Hi,
If you put in new valve guides and valves, I think the Cub service manual says to measure the ID of the guides after putting them in the block. They may need reaming so they have the right clearance with the valve stems. Maybe you knew this already.
I remember in the past someone on here put new valve guides and valves in his Cub engine. He had it together and running again, and he said one valve would stick open when the engine warmed up.
He said he hadn't reamed the valve guide IDs.
I would read the Cub service manual, and check the clearances, like it says.
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the engine section, section 1, before working on the engine.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals/GSS-1411 Service Manual for Cubs and Lo-boy Tractors/index.html

You didn't say the year of the Cub. This manual was made in the 1970's so it has newer, 12 volt electrical system info. :)
 
Last edited:
Hi,
If you put in new valve guides and valves, I think the Cub service manual says to measure the ID of the guides after putting them in the block. They may need reaming so they have the right clearance with the valve stems. Maybe you knew this already.
I remember in the past someone on here put new valve guides and valves in his Cub engine. He had it together and running again, and he said one valve would stick open when the engine warmed up.
He said he hadn't reamed the valve guide IDs.
I would read the Cub service manual, and check the clearances, like it says.
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the engine section, section 1, before working on the engine.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals/GSS-1411 Service Manual for Cubs and Lo-boy Tractors/index.html

You didn't say the year of the Cub. This manual was made in the 1970's so it has newer, 12 volt electrical system info. :)
I have years from 47 to 66. Tractors and blocks that is.
 
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