I was adjusting the right rear brake, and turn I got the jam nut on it, when she decided to break loose. Now I have to take the wheel off, the final drive cover to get to the brakes? Do I have to mess with the final drive fluid?
Brake adjusting… then snap!
- Thread starter AHS
- Start date
staninlowerAL
501 Club
Your previous posts indicate that you have a 1947 Cub, if this is correct then the brake rod is made onto the brake band and the linkage has broken off the brake band inside the final drive housing. You will have to remove the wheel/tire assembly and access the brake band. I suggest that you replace the brake band instead of trying to repair the broken one. While you have it disassembled is a good time to check and replace the bearings and seals as needed. Check the HOW TO subform topic "Brakes", you will find lots of good tips and information. Here's the link. viewforum.php?f=142
Don McCombs
501 Club
Although this How-To is for the left side, this thread will give you a very good idea of the work ahead of you. I'm sure Dale would be willing to answer any questions you might have. She is very knowledgible.
viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436
viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436
TM Tractor, one of our sponsors, has brake band replacements for sale: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/br/288fp.htm
Image courtesy of TM Tractor.
Or, you could make your own...
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=170&t=95457&hilit=brake+band&start=60#p820190
Image courtesy of TM Tractor.
Or, you could make your own...
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=170&t=95457&hilit=brake+band&start=60#p820190
I have changed all the fluids last year. I did the final drive fluid and brand new gasket…. I don’t want to touch it unless I have to! I’m using a #80 master link to replace the old one. Why, is a master link not right? There is a leak from one of the seals behind the brake drum. I want to do this once and do it right!
Hi,
Read my next post below first, I should have put it here, it has more basic info about final drives.
I wrote this post here to answer your question in the post above.
Yes, the brake bands and rods are the same for both sides.
Stanton posted the listing at TM Tractor above.
TM Tractor has new oil seals for behind the brake drum, in the final drive.
I would replace it while you have the final drive off the Cub.
You have to remove the upper shaft that the brake drum is on.
Remove the round cover that is by the tire when the Cub is assembled, remove the brake drum, and the brake drum key in the shaft, and the shaft slides out the hole, in an outboard direction from when the Cub is assembled.
Use a long punch and a hammer to drive the old seal out.
Below is their listing.
There are pics on the page of where the seal goes.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm
Don't hammer directly on a new oil seal, it can dent the seal.
Use a seal driver, or put flat clean metal on the seal to hammer on. The metal should be thick enough it won't bend.
A socket the right size works too, like Dale showed in her post about the brake repair, for installing the inner seal in the transmission.
Below is the listing for the inner seal.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm
Be sure the brake drum key is in place when putting it together.
Be sure the setscrew is there in the brake drum, and tighten it tight when putting it on again.
Tighten its locknut tight.
Some of the setscrews I have seen on here are broken.
Replace it if it is broken.
TM Tractor has parts for the brakes if you need any.
Good luck.
Read my next post below first, I should have put it here, it has more basic info about final drives.
I wrote this post here to answer your question in the post above.
Yes, the brake bands and rods are the same for both sides.
Stanton posted the listing at TM Tractor above.
TM Tractor has new oil seals for behind the brake drum, in the final drive.
I would replace it while you have the final drive off the Cub.
You have to remove the upper shaft that the brake drum is on.
Remove the round cover that is by the tire when the Cub is assembled, remove the brake drum, and the brake drum key in the shaft, and the shaft slides out the hole, in an outboard direction from when the Cub is assembled.
Use a long punch and a hammer to drive the old seal out.
Below is their listing.
There are pics on the page of where the seal goes.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm
Don't hammer directly on a new oil seal, it can dent the seal.
Use a seal driver, or put flat clean metal on the seal to hammer on. The metal should be thick enough it won't bend.
A socket the right size works too, like Dale showed in her post about the brake repair, for installing the inner seal in the transmission.
Below is the listing for the inner seal.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm
Be sure the brake drum key is in place when putting it together.
Be sure the setscrew is there in the brake drum, and tighten it tight when putting it on again.
Tighten its locknut tight.
Some of the setscrews I have seen on here are broken.
Replace it if it is broken.
TM Tractor has parts for the brakes if you need any.
Good luck.
staninlowerAL
501 Club
There are two different types of brake bands for the FCub. Your 48 cub has the older one piece brake band. The newer toggle style will not fit without some modifications or change the final for the toggle style brakes.
Hi,AHS":3glwao0w said:
You have to remove the whole final drive, each one is held on with 6 bolts in a circle.
You can see that in the TM Tractor listing for the larger, outer oil seal, in my post above. There is a pic at the bottom of the listing.
The holes at the top and bottom of the mounting surface are for alignment dowels. Be sure they are there. If any are gone, TM Tractor has new ones.
I would remove the right final drive at where the fender bolts onto it, and leave the extension until after the final drive is off.
The long upper shaft comes out with the final drive.
After removing the right final drive, look in the extension with a light and see if the oil seal in the transmission is leaking.
If it leaks it needs replacing, oil can get on the brake lining if any of the seals are leaking.
On the right side it is harder to remove the oil seal in the trans than the left side.
You have to remove the right side extension, to do that you have to remove the seat post at the base of it, the battery box, loosen the platform, so the rear of it will lift up, and the extension will come off the trans housing.
The left brake rod through the clutch housing can stay in place.
Be sure to put in wooden wedges at the front axle pivot before removing a final drive.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over if you remove parts of them from the rear.
The wedges are shown in Dale's brake repair post.
They don't have to be made with as much of an angle.
Hammer them in tight in the pivot.
Be sure they don't hit at the small end, cut off the small end some if needed.
Hi,
Below is a pic of the brake band in the final drive housing.
The brake drum and shaft are not there in the pic.
The oil seal is there in the pic also.
That is the 1st style of Cub brake, the rod is made on the band.
There are lots of pics of it in Dale's brake repair post.
I would read it before removing the final drive.
When putting the final drive on again, be sure the brake pin in the brake band fits into the holes at both ends of it, before tightening the bolts holding the final drive on the Cub.
It can break a casting to tighten the bolts if 1 end of the pin is not in its hole.
I noticed in 1 of your pics your Cub has a crankcase breather cap or something on the air cleaner intake.
I would remove it and look at it, and see if it has enough holes, or needs cleaning, so it lets in enough air.
If the engine can't get enough air, it won't have as much power as it should.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new air cleaner cap, the pics of the bottom of it show it is open, and has a screen.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/ae/1462fp.htm
The 2nd pic below shows how the brake clevis is originally connected to the linkage. It uses 1 pin for each side.
Below is a pic of the brake band in the final drive housing.
The brake drum and shaft are not there in the pic.
The oil seal is there in the pic also.
That is the 1st style of Cub brake, the rod is made on the band.
There are lots of pics of it in Dale's brake repair post.
I would read it before removing the final drive.
When putting the final drive on again, be sure the brake pin in the brake band fits into the holes at both ends of it, before tightening the bolts holding the final drive on the Cub.
It can break a casting to tighten the bolts if 1 end of the pin is not in its hole.
I noticed in 1 of your pics your Cub has a crankcase breather cap or something on the air cleaner intake.
I would remove it and look at it, and see if it has enough holes, or needs cleaning, so it lets in enough air.
If the engine can't get enough air, it won't have as much power as it should.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new air cleaner cap, the pics of the bottom of it show it is open, and has a screen.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/ae/1462fp.htm
The 2nd pic below shows how the brake clevis is originally connected to the linkage. It uses 1 pin for each side.
Attachments
Gary Dotson
501 Club
They probably twisted off the end of the rod, trying to adjust it. They used the master link to get back the length they lost.
Bill V in Md
501 Club
75-80 lbs and although physically possible for one person, it is easier to align everything during reassembly if you use some type of mechanical assistance.
Dale Finch
501 Club
Engine hoist is well worth the money!! Makes alignment for reinstall so much easier, as well as reattaching the tire/wheel/weight.
I'm female and can do the final procedure by myself, as long as I have my engine hoist! Picked mine up over 10 years ago used on Craigslist.
I'm female and can do the final procedure by myself, as long as I have my engine hoist! Picked mine up over 10 years ago used on Craigslist.
Matt Kirsch
501 Club
The important part is keeping the final drive upright if you don't drain the fluid. I'm pretty sure if you lay it down you'll have a mess.
Gary Dotson
501 Club
If it makes a mess, you have seals to replace. I had mine off last winter, while replacing the trans, and flopped them every which a way cleaning the crud off them. No leakage at all. As far as I know, these seals were installed in 1948.