Blue Devil

T

TallCoolOne58

Well-known member
I finished buttoning up my tractor this morning (re: Might As Well). Since I replaced the inlet and outlet elbow gaskets and hoses, I was thinking of using Blue Devil radiator flush in the cooling system before adding fresh 50/50 coolant, kinda ugly in there. Filled with fresh water and idled for 10 minutes or so to flush out any residual coolant, no leaks, and am letting it cool overnight, to be drained in the morning.

Anyone here have any experience with this product? Gets good reviews online, and i'd to do a good flush, but I don't want to risk something like a blown head gasket at this time, the sunrise temperature is supposed to below freezing Sunday, and I don't want my Cub out of commission for repairs in case it starts snowing.

Thoughts and opinions for consideration appreciated.
 
Not sure how good it’ll flush since there’s no water pump and it needs to be hot for the water to flow correctly.
 
I think it would be more effective to remove the lower coolant tube and flush out the block with a power washer or at least a garden hose. There usually is a lot of build up in the front of the lower block

Some members have recommended an "RV Water Heater Tank Rinser" about $8 to reach in.
 

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Shane Nelson":1r9pga8o said:
Not sure how good it’ll flush since there’s no water pump and it needs to be hot for the water to flow correctly.
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I drained old coolant to do the hoses and gaskets. Filled with fresh water after to rinse out any residual coolant, and check for leaks. None so far. Now I will drain that too.

My thought was the next step would be to add the Blue Devil flush, and fill with fresh water. Start and warm up at low idle for 5-10 mins. Then let run at high idle for at least a good 10 mins, idle back down to low idle for a few, then shut it down and let cool for a drain and rinse. That ought to get it plenty hot and cycle the water in the system.

Once drained, filled/rinsed/runs clear I will add fresh 50/50 antifreeze using distilled water.
 
inairam":s3xaz36q said:
I think it would be more effective to remove the lower coolant tube and flush out the block with a power washer or at least a garden hose. There usually is a lot of build up in the front of the lower block

Some members have recommended an "RV Water Heater Tank Rinser" about $8 to reach in.
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That does look like a neat little gadget for use with a garden hose or pressure washer.
 
The main issues with the cooling system are rust build up in the bolster and block. The blue devil stuff I do not think it will hurt. It may help to loosen the rust before a flush with a hose but I would not expect it to dissolve the build I had in my cubs.

If you clean the bolster and block and connect and use a pressure cap and connect the hose to the overflow use good anti freeze you are in good shape with the cooling system.
 
inairam":28xusn2w said:
The main issues with the cooling system are rust build up in the bolster and block. The blue devil stuff I do not think it will hurt. It may help to loosen the rust before a flush with a hose but I would not expect it to dissolve the build I had in my cubs.

If you clean the bolster and block and connect and use a pressure cap and connect the hose to the overflow use good anti freeze you are in good shape with the cooling system.
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Understood. The bolster, and rust build-up around the cylinders and valve areas seem to be the "problem areas" on these tractors, mainly due to lack of regular cooling system maintenance.

I'm thinking to 'get aggressive', and go ahead and use it. These old tractors are pretty tough, with solid parts. I'll pour in and let sit full strength in bolster when it drains down there, and let it sit for 10-15 minutes to help loosen the crud in there. Then top off with fresh water, and run til hot. Let sit and cool overnight, drain and refill, and repeat (engine cold), until water runs reasonably clear, then fill with fresh 50/50 mix.

Best I can do short of a tear down, and winter's coming fast in these parts. I only have a few more days to be monkeying with water in the cooling system, before we get steady below freezing day break temps, and it's been spitting snow here and there already.
 
TallCoolOne58":3dpusuw9 said:
Then top off with fresh water, and run til hot. Let sit and cool overnight, drain and refill, and repeat (engine cold), until water runs reasonably clear, then fill with fresh 50/50 mix.

Best I can do short of a tear down, and winter's coming fast in these parts. I only have a few more days to be monkeying with water in the cooling system, before we get steady below freezing day break temps, and it's been spitting snow here and there already.
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You will have to work the tractor pretty hard to get it HOT since no thermostat. Not having a water pump you won't see much stuff at the top of the radiator anyway. That is why most of it sits at the bottom of the bolster or the bottom of the block. Thermosypon systems works great, just not good for circulating cleaner to get stuff off the bottom. You could put a towel over the grill to stop some of the flow of air to help get it up to temperature.
 
Shane Nelson":3fmwtdez said:
TallCoolOne58":3fmwtdez said:
Then top off with fresh water, and run til hot. Let sit and cool overnight, drain and refill, and repeat (engine cold), until water runs reasonably clear, then fill with fresh 50/50 mix.

Best I can do short of a tear down, and winter's coming fast in these parts. I only have a few more days to be monkeying with water in the cooling system, before we get steady below freezing day break temps, and it's been spitting snow here and there already.
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You will have to work the tractor pretty hard to get it HOT since no thermostat. Not having a water pump you won't see much stuff at the top of the radiator anyway. That is why most of it sits at the bottom of the bolster or the bottom of the block. Thermosypon systems works great, just not good for circulating cleaner to get stuff off the bottom. You could put a towel over the grill to stop some of the flow of air to help get it up to temperature.
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By 'hot' I meant operating temp, seems to get pretty warm (but doesn't overheat) sitting stationary and running at high idle for 10-15 minutes. The point where the oil has warmed up thoroughly, and the oil pressure drops a little.
 
Mrblanche":17ptq7vh said:
I've used this stuff to finally get rid of the rust in my hot rod. Considering I fought the rust in there for 2 years, I was pretty impressed. https://www.amazon.com/Thermocure-Coola ... ator+flush
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Excellent. I will give it a try next flush and fill. Right now I'm trying to play 'Beat the Clock'. Originally planned this job for Spring, but the hose(s) condition and a coolant leak were driving me nuts.
 
I have used some of the Blue-Devil products in the past. All of them have worked exactly as promised on the bottle. You must follow the directions exactly or whatever is supposed to do, won't. They have a money back guarantee that most parts stores will honor right at the counter as well.
 
JoeB":2woiqm8y said:
I have used some of the Blue-Devil products in the past. All of them have worked exactly as promised on the bottle. You must follow the directions exactly or whatever is supposed to do, won't. They have a money back guarantee that most parts stores will honor right at the counter as well.
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Excellent. Thank you.
 
Well, as a little update, if anyone's interested.

Went out to garage. Drained residual water/coolant (first fill of fresh water only to rinse after draining old coolant). Added Blue Devil (it's a 1 quart jug). Waited about 10 minutes to give the concentrate a chance to work on the crud in the bolster. Then topped off cooling system with fresh water.

Started tractor, low idle for 10 minutes to warm up a little, then high idle for 10 minutes to thoroughly warm up and give the water a chance to heat and circulate, then throttled back to low idle for 5 minutes for a cool down. Shut off tractor to cool overnite.

System holds pressure, no leaks. A relief after the time and effort put in. Drain tomorrow and see what crud it got out. I am not expecting miracles. Heck, I'll be happy if it cleaned out the old crap and sludge. Fingers crossed.
 
Here's a suggestion for you to think about. When you bring the engine up to temp, the thermosiphon action will probably put some of the crud and debris into suspension. By allowing the engine to cool overnight, that debris will settle back out to the low points in the system. I'm thinking that you would be better served by draining it shortly after engine shutdown, thereby draining all the suspended crud out. I wouldn't think there would be enough residual heat in the block to cause any problems. Thoughts?
 
Don McCombs":10rmqmb9 said:
Here's a suggestion for you to think about. When you bring the engine up to temp, the thermosiphon action will probably put some of the crud and debris into suspension. By allowing the engine to cool overnight, that debris will settle back out to the low points in the system. I'm thinking that you would be better served by draining it shortly after engine shutdown, thereby draining all the suspended crud out. I wouldn't think there would be enough residual heat in the block to cause any problems. Thoughts?
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My thoughts are...

I'd like it to cool down and give the hot metal a heat sink while it cools. Maybe letting it sit and soak gives the Blue Devil a chance to dissolve some more crud. Not sure, have no telescopic mini camera to prove either way. I understand what you say about the heavier material, like rust, settling while it cools.

I think draining it, purely by gravity since it's thermosiphon with no obstruction like a closed thermostat gives it kind of a half-assed back flush each and every time I fill and drain it, since some drains out the radiator and some in reverse of normal circulation by flowing back through the outlet elbow, down through the head, water jackets then out the inlet elbow into the bolster and finally into my pail.

Plus I want the engine cold while I fill and drain repeatedly to rinse and flush it out again.

The instructions say to let it cool before draining. I am giving it every opportunity for sucess. Not that if it doesn't i'm out grocery money for the week with the $7.99 invested in the Blue Devil mind you...hey I tried.
 
Tried to post a reply. Didn't go through. Try again.

My thoughts are:

I like the engine to have a heat sink while it cools, and also the label instrauctions say to allow it to cool before draining.

I understand what you're saying, that perhaps more dirt etc. will be in suspension while it drains, like an engine oil change. I'm thinking that since it uses a thermosiphon system, with no thermostat restricting drainage, as it drains, some of the liquid will drain straight out the radiator, some will drain as a sort of back flush by default as it drains down the outlet elbow, through the head, coolant passages in the block, down through the inlet elbow, into the bolster, and finally out the drain into my pail, sets up some turbulence to keep it stirred up some. Combine that with multiple back-to-back repeated flushes and...

Hopefully it will be cleaner than when I started. The end result and proof will be in the pail.
 
Well, for what it's worth, a follow-up.

Drained flush mix. First pail greenish tint with rust particles in pail, like sediment. First refill and drain, light rusty red tint, more sediment. Took about 4 fill and drains to run clear total.

Looked inside radiator neck with flash light. All the greenish brown algae looking slime that was on radiator metal was gone, down to bare copper. Not shiny copper mind you, but 61 year old copper.. White corrosion 'spots' about 50% or so-gone, leaving only smallish occasional ones. Tubes looked clear. I think next time I will let her rip on high idle for a good 30 minutes.

I honestly feel like I got my $8 worth, and my cooling system health went up a few notches.

Put thread sealant on drain pipe threads (cap froze on) screwed back in and tightened. Gonna let it sit for 24 hours, then tomorrow afternoon refill with fresh coolant and distilled water. Fire up and run, inspect for leaks (absolutely none so far) and call the job complete.
 
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