Are there differnet saddle switched for the starters for long and short lever?

I

inairam

501 Club
I swapped out a starter and switch from a 6v tractor with a short lever saddle switch to a 6v with a long lever switch. The pull rods does not fit any longer without depressing the button.

The donor switch looked the same as the replaced switch to me.

Are there two different saddle switches?
 
As I recall, there was a part number change on the switch when they changed to the short lever. I have noted some switches have a cast housing while others are stamped steel, which may be the difference in the two parts. I never tried to see what else may have changed. You may have just discovered some slight geometric difference. Of course, the pull rod changed to angle down to the short lever. You need to use the right pull rod based on which lever you are using.
 
also some of the saddle switches have different screw holes plus different overall height and the inside contacts wont hit together to run the starter! Thats what i ran into so i changed to sol. and key switch on mine.
 
SONNY said:
also some of the saddle switches have different screw holes plus different overall height and the inside contacts wont hit together to run the starter! Thats what i ran into so i changed to sol. and key switch on mine.
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Question: Did you change the "nub" contact on the starter to a threaded brass bolt w/nut? If not how did you make the cable connection at the starter? Stan
 
factory switch was a nice heavy cast unit, today the replaces are stamped out overseas not so good quality, many do not fit correctly, hole size is different for the pin, post is weak and strips easily etc
 
drilled a pocket in the top and wedged the cutoff bolt threads in and soldered it heavy ---not the best repair but it worked for several years.---cub was still starting when i sold it and they drove it on their trailer. -- i never looked but i would think you could replace the nub thingy with the regular bolt type then solder it good inside where it connects up to the windings ---- i didnt take anything apart---i was in a hurry to do a band-aid fix to get going that day and since it worked i just ran it that way.
 
I replaced the original saddle switch on my Cub with a new one. Still using the old style long lever, though. The new switch must be shaped slightly different internally because when you pull the lever, it doesn’t make contact with the post on the top of the starter. I took a nickel and put it between the lever and the button on the starter to make up the difference. Works like a charm now.
 
SONNY said:
drilled a pocket in the top and wedged the cutoff bolt threads in and soldered it heavy ---not the best repair but it worked for several years.---cub was still starting when i sold it and they drove it on their trailer. -- i never looked but i would think you could replace the nub thingy with the regular bolt type then solder it good inside where it connects up to the windings ---- i didnt take anything apart---i was in a hurry to do a band-aid fix to get going that day and since it worked i just ran it that way.
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The reason I asked the question is I had one changed by a starter rebuild shop. Since the connection is inside the housing it has to be disassembled to remove the nub and replace it with the brass bolt. Shop charge was about $100 to clean it all up and replace/repair what needed to be done. Unfortunately the shop is no longer in business after more than 50 years serving my area. Stan
 
I looked at my 49 with a long lever red switch. The center of the pivot hole appears to be above the top of the button. The one I have an issue with (silver one), the centerline of the pivot hole looks to be at the top or slightly below the top of the button. It also looks to me the angle the button is at a more upright angle on the red switch, which would bring the top of the lever forward. Both have a long lever installed on them and you can see the difference in the angle of the long lever. I do not think it is the screw hole location. I think it is the pivot hole location and button angle. I tried some Photoshopped stuff to overlay, but my skills are limited.
 

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I have an original TC-37 and a copy of TC-37 A, and I do not see the starter switch called out in either version. I keep hearing there was no part number change but I decided to check. I do have an E version both the short and long levels are there with one switch.

Does anyone have a B, C or D version of the parts manual that shows the switch and the part number?
 
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