Anybody else having problems with Rustoleum, with up-date !

[Matt Kirsch]

If you let it go more than 1 hour, you've gotta wait at least 48 before painting again.

When the paint is dry to the touch that soon after painting, only the outer layer is dry. It's still wet underneath.

The solvents in the finish coat will weaken the thin cured layer. Now you've got a layer of dry paint surrounded by two layers of wet paint, and the dry layer starts to break up. That's where you get the wrinkles.

As long as you use compatible paint, and don't try to re-coat in the "danger zone" (between 1 and 48 hours), that won't happen.

Patience is a virtue when painting.

 

[Hengy]

I used Rustoleum Rusty metal primer on Merlin's body and hood. Right out of the rattle can. All of the parts in this picture were painted with Rustoleum primer and then covered with Farm and Fleet's Tractor paint in IH Red....again, right out of the rattle can.

Most of the priming was done one day, and then the next weekend, I did the top coats. The top coats were done in "rapid succession" and all of the painting done at one time.

Here is a picture of Merlin's carcass. Again painted with Rustolum Rattle Can Rusty Metal primer. I did wait at least a week in between primer and paint, though...not on purpose, but because of my time constraints. The only place that doesn't look good was because of my lack of preparation, and that is under the belly of the torque tube. There was oil on the metal that I didn't get completely off of it... I am going to fix that down the road...

I had good results...that doesn't guarantee good results from other folks!!

Mike in La Crosse, WI

 

[junkman1946]

Lee; You answered your own question. "I washed everything down with lacquer thinner". Lacquer based products and Rust-Oleum don't mix.Usually lacquer will "craze" the R.O. top coat making it look like your favorite wrinkled leather recliner. I'll bet you had a little residue left over after you washed it. Mineral Spirits or Pre-Cleano are the best products that I know of for washing down.
Wet Sand the panel again with some 400 paper to "break" the gloss. Pay a little special attention to the bad spots and spray it again.

 

[Lee_Petrie]

A special thanks to you both, Mike and "the Junkman" , between your great picture of what it can look like with the "rusty metal primer" and the suggestion about not using laquer thinner , and all the other great suggestions , they give me new energy to try it again (with my fingers crossed) for good luck on the project ! Lee

 

[Lee_Petrie]

Would like to pass along an up-date to my painting issues, using Rustoleum paint, with this email I received from customer support at the Rust-Oleum Corp. This email was actually received a week ago, but I wanted to get the OK to "copy & paste" it in our forum, which I received in today's email !
A portion of that email, copied word for word is as follows :

The Rusty Metal Primer, or the heavy rusted primer that you are talking about, can definitely handle a high gloss paint. This is to be assumed that the area that you are covering with the primer is heavily rusted to begin with. The Rusty Metal Primer has a fish oil, the fish oil is looking for rust to grab into, if it does not have rust, the fish oil will rise to the surface while it is curing, which takes 7-10 days.

If you apply RMP to a surface that isn't rusted, then I would suggest leaving it for the full 7-10 days, then washing it, then apply your top coat.

I would suggest fixing the bubble or sandpaper surfaces by using the sandpaper that you suggested, then using the dish soap and water wipe the surface, let it dry for 24 hrs, and then recoat. This should help get rid of all your imperfections on the surface.

I hope this reply , answers the outstanding questions , to get a "good looking" finish result from the Rustoleum products, I still have NOT repainted my tractor parts, waiting for better weather conditions , Lee Petrie

 

[dgrapes59]

That is interesting. I have used their primer on other jobs, didn't realize the downside (or extended time and steps) to using on "clean" metal.

I have used the IH primer and paint and been real happy with it so, I took the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach.

Thanks for the follow-up and good luck moving forward,

 

[Matt Kirsch]

A lot of the problems Lee had were due to "dumb luck." Just the right (wrong) set of conditions at the right (wrong) time...

I love the RMP. It's a high build primer, nearly impossible to run, dries to the touch quick... I've been able to re-coat inside the "danger zone" without issue, but I've also had it craze like that too...