Antisieze or not

Nosparkplug

Active member
First off, all I’ve ever heard that head bolts should be dry. What about every other bolt that could be exposed to weather. There has never been any antisieze used on my new to me ‘51cub. In working on it I have found that an impact is your friend but going back together I am antisiezing everything but head bolts. Bad or good?
 
You’ll need sealant on those head bolts. They go into the water jacket and will seep coolant otherwise.
Agreed! An impact wrench is a wonderful thing!
I think you’ll find lots of fans of anti seize here.
 
For head bolts that go into the water jacket (unlike most head bolts) you want to use TFE paste or aka pipe dope to “seal” the treads so antifreeze won’t seep through. TFE paste is sold at NAPA or car parts stores and it is in a small can with a brush. Only use a small amount on the threads and try to make the paste go completely around the threads then install and FOLLOW THE CORRECT BOLT TORQUE PATTERN in the service manual…..if not you can crack the case. Proper torque and proper torque sequence in very important! I do not recommend an impact gun installing anything on the engine……not a good idea.

NJ Farmer
 
If using any lubricant on a fastener the torque should be reduced to keep from over tightening the fastener. I agree with Crimson Tim regarding the requirement for sealant on head bolts.

When a bolt is lubricated - less torque is required to achieve bolt axial load or tension. Reduction of torques for lubricated vs. dry bolts are indicated in the table below.

Lubricant/Torque Reduction (%)
Graphite (Anti-Seize) / 50 - 55
White Grease/ 35 - 45
SAE 30 oil/ 35 - 45
SAE 40 oil / 30 - 40
No lube/ 0
 
Wonder if it's a waste of time to neverseez where the head bolts go through the head. Not the threaded part, but the smooth shank. Even recently we've had someone with issues of the head bolts being rusted into the head.
 
Anti seize should be use on a case by case basis. One thing to understand about anti seize it that the oils purge from it and it eventually hardens, and this can be problematic. Below is my basic rundown of how and where to use anti seize.

Typically I use it on bolt shanks (as someone suggested) to keep the bolts from corroding to the metal they are passing through. I also use it under bolt heads and sometimes under washers, but not always on threads. It helps to be able to visualize what kind of stress the fastener is going to be subject to. And I don't just mean shear or tension stress, but prolonged exposure to moisture or heat or friction from moving components, etc.

Sometimes I use it on fasteners that go into aluminum, but not always. Anti seize is abrasive and if a fastener is removed and replaced even semi-frequntly, over time, the aluminum threads can become weakened and strip. That said, I try to use studs in aluminum instead of bolts.

Stainless hardware always gets anti seize, or other special lube (where specified torque is involved. like on head bolts).

I used to use anti seize on brake parts, like the threaded adjusters and where brake shoes rub against backing plates, but no more. The hardening make things worse in those applications.

Tie rod ends, or other tapered fasteners, get a thin smear of it on the tapered mating surfaces. This helps upon disassembly in the future.

Lug nuts also get anti seize. Just a tiny bit on the threads, but more importantly, where the conical seat meets the wheel. If you restore vehicles and have nice paint on wheels, this helps make the paint last longer. It won't chip or gall at the mating surface.

Brake drums get a thin coat where the drum meets the axle flange. Again, this makes disassembly easier in the future. Note that using it on wheels, lug nuts or brake drums, it will fling outward and makes a mess, so use it sparingly and clean it off when you see it.

You can also use it to "coat" exhaust manifolds, but note that the burning off of it is extremely noxious and can kill you. Though it does produce a nice, long lasting aluminized finish.
 
And just think, when IH was building these tractors, I do not believe they used any anti-seize / never-seize in their construction!
 
SamsFarm

I’m sure they didn’t but that comment doesn’t give much help to the people like me spending 3 or 4 days trying to remove broken bolts. And a few of those people are like me, working in their backyard not a nice heated shop.
 
SamsFarm":2wuqj9ae said:
And just think, when IH was building these tractors, I do not believe they used any anti-seize / never-seize in their construction!
The rules change at the point that the vehicles we love and collect went from being a product to being a hobby.
 
AntiSeize is help the next mechanic make the repair job go smoother…..OEM manufactures could careless about repairs down the road. Their job is to build a product that won’t come apart (bolts with lock tight on threads)

I use anti-seize so my job later (or the next owner since I am just the current care taker of my cubs) will be easier.

NJ Farmer
 
Good point NJ. Probably the wrong crowd here but I regularly use it alot especially on lugs. Also on aluminum wheels where they locate on the hub so if I have to change it on the side of the road it doesn't seem like it's welded on. Looking in my cars owners manual it states do not use anti seize on the wheel lugs. Oops....
 
My earlier comment about hobby vs manufacturing was meant to illustrate that as a hobbyist, you are more likely to be tinkering with your vehicle. Removing and replacing a fastener repeatedly increases the risk of boogering a thread. This is why I always use anti seize on wheel studs/lug nuts. There's almost nothing worse than cross threading a lug nut onto a wheel stud. As a hobby, if you're worried about correct torque, the change in torque figures can be accounted for if not altogether ignored in most cases.
 
I have the copper type anti-sieze, but I do not put it everywhere. At this time I am drawing a blank on whether I used any on my Cub or not.
Sometimes I might grab some grease or oil instead.
Really depends on the application!

Nosparkplug":qa7vrkfq said:
SamsFarm

I’m sure they didn’t but that comment doesn’t give much help to the people like me spending 3 or 4 days trying to remove broken bolts. And a few of those people are like me, working in their backyard not a nice heated shop.
There is always a chance of a fight, working on a machine that was not properly stored / cared for, by the previous owner.


Stoffregen Motorsports":qa7vrkfq said:
SamsFarm":qa7vrkfq said:
And just think, when IH was building these tractors, I do not believe they used any anti-seize / never-seize in their construction!
The rules change at the point that the vehicles we love and collect went from being a product to being a hobby.

Some of us have tractors as tools.

Why sure they can be fun too!

But if I did not have a use for them, I probably would not have them!
 
One area that I forgot to mention - exhaust studs, nuts, bolts. I always use it on exhaust system hardware. Even low performance engines create enough heat to cause rust on exhaust hardware. Anti-seize there will allow easy removal of those fasteners even years after it is applied.
 
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