60 inch belly mower for 1975 Cub--Woods or International?

denzeljh

denzeljh

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I inherited a 1975 International Cub with this belly mower attached. I've now taken it off so I can replace what I am pretty sure are shot bearings on the middle pulley. It worked great, but unfortunately, it's so old there are no signs of any make or model? It's a 60", with three blades. Any thoughts on whether this is a Woods or International? Many thanks in advance.
 

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Many thanks to you both, much appreciated. Lightning fast, and on a holiday, no less!

Now if I could only get the pulley off. Hex heads came out easy, but it still won't budge, even with an 8" puller on it. From what I've read on here, lots of PB blaster and patience are the solution, but I welcome any other suggestions!
 
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When you get the spindle assembly broken down take the parts (bearings and seals) to a good auto parts like NAPA so they can measure the size and get you the correct replacement parts. JMHO. Stan
 
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Edit: Here's a set of spindles from a Pennington mower showing the taper lock bushing. After watching Barnyard's video I suggest using your favorite neversieze on the splines and bolt threads before reassembly. Makes the job a lot easier next time. JMHO Stan

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Barnyard said:
After taking out the bolts, the pulley needs to be separated from the bushing. Then it should come off.

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Barnyard, many thanks -- extremely helpful video. I thought I needed different sized bolts for the 3 free holes but they take the same bolts -- the holes are just threaded higher up than the holes I removed them from. To summarize my lesson for others... definitely don't use a puller!

I attach where I am at. I pulled out the straight key (though it is still shown in this photo), but I'm still not able to get that top piece off. I see the shaft is threaded underneath it. I am assuming there is a more elegant solution than brute force?

Thanks very much again for the guidance.
 

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denzeljh said:
Barnyard, many thanks -- extremely helpful video. I thought I needed different sized bolts for the 3 free holes but they take the same bolts -- the holes are just threaded higher up than the holes I removed them from. To summarize my lesson for others... definitely don't use a puller!

I attach where I am at. I pulled out the straight key (though it is still shown in this photo), but I'm still not able to get that top piece off. I see the shaft is threaded underneath it. I am assuming there is a more elegant solution than brute force?

Thanks very much again for the guidance.
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You can use a puller on that bushing, just go easy. I would soak the shaft with penetrating oil and let it sit. for a while.
 
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Brute force and you run the risk of swelling the end of the shaft. My recommendation is now that you can access the flange mounting bolts that attach the assembly to the deck is to remove the spindle assembly in order to be able to use a press and direct pressure to remove the bottom half of the taperloc bushing. It's likely been there a long time and rust, etc. has it seized in place. If it's like the Pennington assembly you can remove the blade and then extract the shaft from the bearings and leave the bushing on the shaft until you get it out because the shaft is just a straight piece of rod that's threaded, etc as necessary to hold it all together. At least that's my experience when I rebuilt mine.
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The C3 spindles are different than the Pennington. The flange for mounting the blades is part of the spindle (welded assembly) therefore the pulley and hub must be removed in order to remove the spindle assembly from the deck and then the spindle from the housing. As Barnyard suggested, a puller will work fine.
 
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Many thanks, all. Much appreciated. I've been giving it healthy doses of PB Blaster a couple of times a day, and a couple of turns on the puller. It's coming, but very slowly. I'm guessing it will come off just in time for the weekend. And yes, as Peter S says, the pulley and hub definitely have to come off to dismantle the whole thing. I'll post a victory photo if/when I get it all back together.
 
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tst said:
try pushing the hub down if you have room, then sand the shaft, it has rust built up on it so the hub does not want to pull up, then oil and use your puller
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tst, many thanks. I did as you suggested. Didn't sand the shaft as it looked pretty clean but knocking it back down a bit gave it a running start with puller and it came off relatively easy.
 
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Hi all, many thanks for all of the good advice on here. There was indeed a wrecked bearing. Went to the local NAPA store and got a replacement set of trailer bearings. I won't say it was "easy" putting everything back together, but certainly quicker than taking it all apart! Took it for a test mow today and it seems to work just fine.
 
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