'53 Restoration JBailey

Hi,
If you replace the pilot bushing, know that some of the new bushings are too small an ID after being driven into the crankshaft hole. If you put it together that way, the clutch shaft may not stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down. People have written on here that has happened to them before.
The bushing needs measuring inside, and to be reamed bigger, if it is too small after installing it.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing the shaft size on the front end, and the running clearance.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

Grease inside the bushing, and the end of the shaft when putting the Cub together.


Below is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing the clutch, and adjusting the clutch pedal free play.
The free play is measured at the surface you put your foot on. This pic is for Cubs serial number 32229 and above, with the adjustment at the clutch pedal base.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2056.jpg
 
darn I should have measured that finger height before I took it off. just in too big a hurry to get this thing apart.
 
Hi,
If you have the same pressure plate and disc, you can bolt them back on the flywheel and check the finger height. If you didn't change the height, then you will know if they were low.

When installing the pressure plate, tighten the 6 bolts gradually, going around the pressure plate. It is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts, with the disc in place.

When putting it together to use, try to get all 3 fingers exactly the same height, so they form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.

When checking the clutch disc lining, it is not much above the rivets, even with a new disc.
Below is a listing for a new clutch disc at TM Tractor. You can see the lining thickness at the rivets in the bottom pic. Not all lining has the notches, like theirs does, some were flat lining. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/521fp.htm
 
I put clutch and pressure plate back on the flywheel. Top of levers measure 1 6/32, 1 3/32, 1 2/32. It appears some wear on two fingers and little wear on one. Pressure plate fairly clean but has some TO bearing dust residue and has cross hatch marks on face. Clutch itself has painted numbers remaining on its face and measures 5/16 width.
Pilot bushing measures .6250, spline end measures .6220 for a clearance of .0030.
 
Hi,
I don't know how much wear the fingers have without seeing them. They should be in good condition to reuse the pressure plate.
Be sure to set the fingers to the same height. They have said on here that even new pressure plates need the fingers set to the right height.
The pilot bushing has less running clearance than the manual says to have. If the clutch shaft was stopping when you pushed the clutch pedal down, when the engine was fully warmed up, I guess it will work, but you could ream it so it has .004" clearance.
 
1953 Cub ser#171983 J The tag is painted on and if there is a number to the far right of the J, I can not see it for the paint. My TC37R parts book says the J cub serial number has a rockford clutch, which it does, and if it had a high altitude head the serial number would have a HA. I am afraid if I try to remove the red paint I would also take off all the black tag paint and any other info that may be black.
The parts book says my block number which is 251341R6 L (5-4-Y) would have a high altitude head. Am I reading my information correctly?
I am getting ready to order a new head as my old one is busted and covered with JB weld so I can not clearly read the numbers on it. Maybe the last few digits are 223.R-1 and a (7.29.?)
I don't need a high altitude head where I live and so would rather not have one if I don't have to have it for this particular block. What is required?
serial number.jpg
engine number.jpg
 
Hi,
You could use some paint thinner on a rag, and carefully dissolve the red paint off the serial number plate. You need a thinner powerful enough to dissolve the type of red paint used on it, but not damage the black paint on the plate.

The cast in numbers at the lower part of the block do not tell if it has a high altitude cylinder head.
That is not what the L is for.

Look at the engine serial number, it should have letters after the number, if it has a high altitude head.

Below is a page from the 1955 Cub owner's manual showing where the block serial number is.
It is stamped into the block, you might have to clean the area, and use a light to see it.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-02.jpg

The standard head was part number 251228R1, that might be the number of yours, look closely with a light and see if you can see it.
Below is a new head at TM Tractor, with info.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/263fp.htm

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual, it shows what the letters are. There would be HA after the engine serial number, if it had the high altitude head, and if it is the original time period engine.
The L would be on the tractor serial number plate.
Read what it says at Suffix Letter Code. :)

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 000-10.jpg
 
I will try the paint thinner trick. Is it possible that the HA may not be stamped on the tag, but a painted black number. Seems like I have seen some painted black numbers on IH tractors before.
I saw that picture of the number location but just assumed the wrong location, it is above the dip stick is what you are saying. The head number is impossible as it is thick with JB weld.
Correct, I do not know that this is the engine that came with this tractor.
You did not comment if I might be required to have a high altitude head for my new one.
 
Hi,
There would be L on the serial number plate, after the J, according to the parts manual page I posted above, if it had the high altitude head. They did not put HA on the plate, only on the engine serial number.
There is no painted black number shown in the parts manual page above.
Yes, the engine serial number is above the dip stick, that is where the HA would be, if it is not there, it has the standard head, originally. Someone could have put one on it later.
As far as I know, the standard and high altitude heads will fit any Cub engine. The high altitude head was probably used with different carburetor jets for high altitude also.
Maybe Jim B, will comment about that.
 
I have not got the paint off the front side of the serial number tag yet, but I did remove the tag and the back side clearly shows the L stamped, but does not show any other stampings.
Also found the engine number under the paint and it is FCUBM175316.
As Glen said I was fooled by the L after the block number.
 
Hi,
If you can see a 223 cast in the top of the head, it may be the last 3 numbers of the part number 251228R1, which was the standard head, if part of the 8 is not showing clearly. I don't know without seeing it.
An older Cub parts manual says the high altitude head was 351779R1.

If there is no HA in the engine serial number, the engine may have been changed, I would think it should be there in the engine serial number.
 
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