I'm new to this site. My Dad died before finishing our tractor and I need help. I have 1948 6-V positive ground Farmall McCormick. I have a couple of questions if you can help me. Does the kill switch wire go to the magneto and if so, is there any other wires that goes to the kill switch. I put a new amp meter in my tractor this one has a small light in the back of it. How do I wire this in to my tractor. Thank you for your help.
48 cub kill switch wiring
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A magneto system needs one wire from the magneto to the killl switch. No other wires connect to it. I don't know what your lighted ammeter is like. If it has a separate wire for the light, run it over to the headlight terminal of the light switch.
At the top of this page, click on manuals, select operator's manuals and then your tractor year. Near the back of the operator's manual is electrical wiring diagrams. If your tractor year manual doesn't have the needed wiring diagram - check the following years - etc..
Your small light in the amp meter. You could wire it to the existing light switch or leave it unattached. I just installed a new amp meter in my Cub. I cut off the light's pigtail/wire.
Your small light in the amp meter. You could wire it to the existing light switch or leave it unattached. I just installed a new amp meter in my Cub. I cut off the light's pigtail/wire.
Glad you were able to get if figured out. It really is nice to be able to finish a project your Dad started and having that kind of heirloom is really special. Keep us posted on your progress.
Also glad to have you aboard :!: Follow the links below. There is a huge amount of resources and information available to our members and I am sure that it will be of help.
Also glad to have you aboard :!: Follow the links below. There is a huge amount of resources and information available to our members and I am sure that it will be of help.
to Farmallcub.com :big smile: Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to :arrow: the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of which is the Cub Manual Server. Enjoy!.
For the last month I have been replacing all the rear seals what a job.
I replaced both breaks and rods for about $85.00 dollars, I don't know if this was a good price or not. I need to check the manual for what kind of heavy rear-end oil to use and how full it should be. I have to finish up the wiring put the gas tank on and hook all the linkage up. After all that I'm hoping it will start. I will try to post some pictures when the tractor is completed. Thanks' everyone.
I replaced both breaks and rods for about $85.00 dollars, I don't know if this was a good price or not. I need to check the manual for what kind of heavy rear-end oil to use and how full it should be. I have to finish up the wiring put the gas tank on and hook all the linkage up. After all that I'm hoping it will start. I will try to post some pictures when the tractor is completed. Thanks' everyone.
Don't put the hood and gas tank on until the engine is running and everything tested. Make a pony/auxiliary gas tank for starting the engine and testing. Most folks use a small engine fuel tank. I have an outboard motor gas tank that I set on the tractor seat.Help":2bm4bbzr said:
I got the tractor running however, I didn't get the electrical working. I had a hard time keeping the negative cable from shorting out on the starter. I wired the 6v just like the wiring diagram negative wire from the starter goes to the negative side of the ammeter. When I turn on the light switch I get a electrical short. I switched the Two wires and I get the same thing. Nun of the wires are shorting out on the frame. I think I have a bad light switch. Thanks' everyone.