1976 International Club - Transmission Issue

R

rtfosmoe

Member
Hello,

I have 1976 International Club. During the past month, my clutch pedal stopped working. When I press down on the clutch, the clutch doesn't allow me to shift. I can force in reverse and 1st gear. Any suggestions? Does anyone know a knowledgeable person that I can take it to for repair? I live in South West Michigan near Kalamazoo, MI. All the tractor guys around here don't want to work on such old things.


Thanks,

Rich
 
rtfosmoe said:
When I press down on the clutch, the clutch doesn't allow me to shift.
Click to expand...
Hi,
When you push the clutch pedal down, does it feel the same as before, when the clutch worked right.
The pedal should have 1" of free play at the top of it's travel, measured at the surface where you put your foot, then be firm to push the rest of the way down.
Or does it feel free to push all the way down.
Do you mean the Cub won't stop moving when you push the pedal down.
The graphite like material of the throwout bearing may be worn down.
The pressure plate fingers may be too low, and need adjusting, a sort of common problem with Cubs.
A 1976 Cub is one of the newest Cubs that were made, IH made them until 1979. :)
 
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Glen said:
Hi,
When you push the clutch pedal down, does it feel the same as before, when the clutch worked right.
The pedal should have 1" of free play at the top of it's travel, measured at the surface where you put your foot, then be firm to push the rest of the way down.
Or does it feel free to push all the way down.
Do you mean the Cub won't stop moving when you push the pedal down.
The graphite like material of the throwout bearing may be worn down.
The pressure plate fingers may be too low, and need adjusting, a sort of common problem with Cubs.
A 1976 Cub is one of the newest Cubs that were made, IH made them until 1979. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response. No, the pedal is much easier to press. I can start the tractor in Neutral, Reverse, or First gear. Switching between gears is the problem. When I press the pedal down and try to shift, nothing happens. I can force it between R,F, and neutral, but a lot of gear-on-gear noise occurs.
 
rtfosmoe said:
Thanks for the response. No, the pedal is much easier to press. I can start the tractor in Neutral, Reverse, or First gear. Switching between gears is the problem. When I press the pedal down and try to shift, nothing happens. I can force it between R,F, and neutral, but a lot of gear-on-gear noise occurs.
Click to expand...
Remove the clutch adjustment cover on the lower forward/bottom of the torque tube and with a good light, have a look at the TOB and clutch linkage. You might see something obvious that don't look right. If nothing catches your attention, have someone work the clutch pedal down and back up while you inspect the motion. It's not common but sometimes one of the clutch fingers comes loose and the clutch won't work correctly. I had this happen on my Allis B (same symptoms that you describe), split the tractor and fixed the problem--been working OK ever since. JMHO Stan
 
rtfosmoe said:
the pedal is much easier to press.
Click to expand...
If the pedal got easier to push down all at once, it sounds like something went wrong with the pressure plate. I have read on here that a pin holding one finger on came out, then the finger doesn't work. Most Cub clutches have 3 fingers that are pushed by the throwout bearing.
You could remove the hand hole cover under the clutch area, and get under it, and look up into the hole and check it. Use a light, also it is helpful to have the Cub in a building, so you aren't looking up at the bright sky.
Below is a page from a Cub operator's manual showing the clutch, at the bottom of the page.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Owner's Manuals/McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 12-20-55/Page 56.jpg

While you have the cover off, it is a good time to grease the grease fitting on the throwout bearing.
They say on here to use cheap grease, so it absorbs into the graphite material.
Grease it until grease comes out the small hole, that should be on top of the bearing.

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of a Cub pressure plate.
The 2nd picture shows how a new throwout bearing looks, the graphite material sticks out of of it 5/16". The material can wear down.
I would avoid grinding the gears, they can break.
I guess Stan posted about when I began writing this post. :)
 

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True tst, Cubs are designed to stop moving to shift gears, there is no synchromesh in the transmission. If you are moving and try to shift gears, they will usually grind.
 
Glen said:
If the pedal got easier to push down all at once, it sounds like something went wrong with the pressure plate. I have read on here that a pin holding one finger on came out, then the finger doesn't work. Most Cub clutches have 3 fingers that are pushed by the throwout bearing.
You could remove the hand hole cover under the clutch area, and get under it, and look up into the hole and check it. Use a light, also it is helpful to have the Cub in a building, so you aren't looking up at the bright sky.
Below is a page from a Cub operator's manual showing the clutch, at the bottom of the page.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Owner's Manuals/McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 12-20-55/Page 56.jpg

While you have the cover off, it is a good time to grease the grease fitting on the throwout bearing.
They say on here to use cheap grease, so it absorbs into the graphite material.
Grease it until grease comes out the small hole, that should be on top of the bearing.

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts of a Cub pressure plate.
The 2nd picture shows how a new throwout bearing looks, the graphite material sticks out of of it 5/16". The material can wear down.
I would avoid grinding the gears, they can break.
I guess Stan posted about when I began writing this post. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help. I'll remove the cover this weekend.
 
rtfosmoe said:
Going less than 1 mph when I do this. I know that this isn't good for the teath on the gears.
Click to expand...
True tst, Cubs are designed to stop moving to shift gears, there is no synchromesh in the transmission. If you are moving and try to shift gears, they will usually grind.

Agree with Glen and tst, the gears have to be stopped to mesh without grinding. No synchronizing with a Cub transmission. Stan
 
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