1948 Farmall H

R

RonHarper

Well-known member
I have just located a 1948 Farmall H in my hometown. It was not advertised for sale, I just spotted it off the road. The owner said it was just sitting there and it belonged to his brother. I looked it over. Here are the specifics. Model-H, S/N- FBH 294652 X1, 1815 RPM, Engine Casting- 10 . 7 . R. It has rust as expected but most of the metal is straight. Front grill is bent, I will probably just replace it, and it is missing the "Farmall" front emblem, E-bay $15-20.00. The engine cowling has a small (quarter size) rust hole which I might be able to repair. The rest of the metal is good. Intake/Exhaust manifold has a quarter size hole and needs replacing. This hole has been covered so no rain can get inside. Engine turns over easily by hand. Starter is missing. PTO engages/disengages fine, I want to drain some oil to check for water/antifreeze and do a compression check on all cyliders. The bonus of this tractor is the rear tires are about 90%. Looks like they were purchased just prior to retiring the tractor. Front tires are about 75%. We agreed on $450.00 if Compression checks OK and no antifreeze in oil. Besides checking for antifreeze, is there any other suggestions to check for cracked head or block. Does $450 sound good. I could really use it to mow my 7 acres. I use my cub with a 42" woods, but a 72" pull behind on an H would give me more time to fish. (not that I get to do much of that anyway!)> I would love to here some comments on this post. Thank You.
 
Thanks BD, I figured $450.00 was worth it even for parts. However I would like to restore it. I hope the compression is good.
 
Just be aware if you buy it and get it running there will typical things pop up that may need repairing. Any old tractor that has been sitting for a spell is bound to be hiding some issues. Most of all leaks. I bought one several yrs ago for $450.00 that I could drive home. However after I got it home the list of repairs grew long.
Brakes didn't work, liftall worked but leaked bad, steering was real sloppy, engine ran smooth but fouled plugs repeatedly and smoked bad, seat spring was shot and shock too, steering wheel all but wires, and the list went on.
I couldn't have been prouder that day though!!
 
I certainly understand WKPoor about leaks because of sitting. I noticed on your profile you are an aircraft mechanic. I also am an A&P mechanic (retired, except for volunteer work on old warbirds). I know firsthand if an aircraft sits for extended periods of time rather than being run, leaks take place. I really would like to restore it though. I dont know what it is about me, but the more the repair the better. I just really love to tear these old tractors COMPLETELY APART, and rebuild everything. Anyone relate to my madness!!
 
Sounds like a good price .I give 900 for a 47 H It looked like a rust bucket but ran great . Be sure to check all the gears If I remember correctly pull the transmission check plug left side in front of the brakes.If you look in there with a light you can see 1st and /or 2nd gears Mine were worn but I never had any problems with it .The ones normally used the hardest.
 
Thanks TJ for the tip. Sounds to me like it has just been retired. The owner sais his dad used it, then when he passed away it went to him. He doesnt really have any interest (how can this be!!!) in this tractor so it sat, then he took it to his brothers place to sit some more. All it needs is a new home and some TLC..(along with some new paint, decals, etc...). Oh by the way, are you familiar with the lift all hydraulic set up. Can it be installed on a non hydraulic H. Maybe I will put that question in a new post if I dont get too many answers here. Thanks TJ.
 
How much time and money???Mine 50 is well worn but I love it!!!The motor is tired but it works like a mule!!!It gives me all it can.I will rebuild the motor and make it better than it was new.[super H kit]Sometimes it not just money or time.You know what I mean!!!!Kevin a smile on your face or some one else's.What could be better??? :D :D
 
Thanks KETCHAM, tell me about the super H kit. I was thinkink about modifiying the H engine. I also wondered if it would be better to find a Super H engine and rebuild. I know that some of the specs are different. Im not an expert but here is what I believe I have found. Head is different, but that could be a direct replacement. Bore is 3.5 instead of 3 3/8. Crank shaft is hardened or beefed up some more? I believe the throttle body is 1 1/4 instead of 1". Once again Im not an expert but Seem to recall those facts. What do you think.
 
I have heard you can do this.You use new piston sleesves.I've talked to a couple of guys that have done it.No real specifics but sounds good to me.A few guys might jump in on this I hope.Most engine kits are sleeves and pistons.I don't think the head would mater that much.A machinist would be better to ask.I know that the guys who did it liked the extra power. :D :D Kevin mine is well worn!!!
 
Ron, heres the deal.
You can resleeve only to the next size jump. So your H can be a Super with the Tisco kit. However if you elect to rebore make sure you jump to the 350 size which I think is 172cu. or 179cu. I have the 3 9/16 bore because mine started out as a Super 164cu. and has the Tisco kit to jump one size. Stay with your H head unless you like to spend money. Just mill it down and raise the compression a little. Buy the new manifold that matches the Super H carb. Fairly cheap and money well spent IMO. I'll and post some pics on all this. Most of what you seek I have already been there done that and used it. There were a few hickups along the way but the bugs where worked out.
 
RonHarper":1yty6onq said:
Thanks TJ for the tip. Oh by the way, are you familiar with the lift all hydraulic set up. Can it be installed on a non hydraulic H. Maybe I will put that question in a new post if I dont get too many answers here. Thanks TJ.
Click to expand...

Ron,
As John said it can be easliy done . One thing is if you can find a pump with a #8 on it or a later casting code it it should be of the 800 pound pressure pump. Not the 600 pound pressure as was the earlier pumps. THen you can look for chicken teeth to find the auxiallary valve to give you 2 way pressure. I 've got one on my M works great.
 
Here is the tractor now. Still no paint and I seem to be partial to the no sheetmetal appearance.
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I have yet to install the power steering unit. I currently have the motor down repairing loose wrist pins. Previous builder issue! The bolster weights shown are really rare. I also have a set of creeper gears to put in. Spent 2yrs finding them. Front and rear tires and rims are new. Seat assembly was completely rebuilt.
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This is a 169cu. motor with 180psi cranking pressure. SuperH carb too.
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The throttle mod really smooths up the throttle. The shaft Earl made for me out of stainless. It idles perfectly in first slot and full throttle in the last.
 
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