184 will not shut off with key

I cannot imagine any way the alternator could fail that would cause your symptom.

Having your ignition coil wired backward will not cause your symptom.

Check the resistance value of your new resistor. It should be about 25 ohms. Ignition resistors look about the same but are less than 5 ohms. One of them could cause your symptom.

Check your wiring. The alternator should have exactly two wires connected that go somewhere else on the tractor. One should go directly to the ammeter. The other should go to one end of the resistor. That end of the resistor should have no other wires attached. Wiring different than this could cause your symptom.

Edit: Since this is a factory alternator installation, there probably is another wire from the two-wire connector on the alternator. It should go to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I suppose it could be shorted to the other terminal of the two-wire connector. But that would give different symptoms.
 
This is what I bought for the altenator, 12V Resistor for Alternator For IH 184 Cub Lo-Boy. I says it has 4 ohms of resistance. Where can I purchase the correct resistor?
 
Gosh this is great advise. I don't know what to say except the dash panel may have some live current. The switch itself should be isolated from everything but negative ground is part of it. just tryin' So a different switch using positive ground is something else.
 
The original part number was 534784R1 and was replaced with 107558C1. Do a google search with either one and get a list of possible sources.
 
So before I rip down all the wiring, I decided to rebuild the alternator. The brushes were really worn down and there was about 2 cups of dirt inside! I should get the rebuild kit on Wednesday and slap it back together and go from there. If this doesn't work, yet it needs it anyway, I will start pulling wires off the see if anything is melted together. I also order a new starter solenoid.
 
Jim Becker":3kwvlais said:
I cannot imagine any way the alternator could fail that would cause your symptom.

Having your ignition coil wired backward will not cause your symptom.

Check the resistance value of your new resistor. It should be about 25 ohms. Ignition resistors look about the same but are less than 5 ohms. One of them could cause your symptom.

Check your wiring. The alternator should have exactly two wires connected that go somewhere else on the tractor. One should go directly to the ammeter. The other should go to one end of the resistor. That end of the resistor should have no other wires attached. Wiring different than this could cause your symptom.

Edit: Since this is a factory alternator installation, there probably is another wire from the two-wire connector on the alternator. It should go to the battery side of the starter solenoid. I suppose it could be shorted to the other terminal of the two-wire connector. But that would give different symptoms.

Jim,
I have two wires connected to the positive side of the ignition coil and 1 wire on the negative side of the ignition coil. The negative side then drops down to the distributor. I'm not 100% sure where the positive side wires are going since all my wires are red. Does this seem right?
Thanks for your help.
Justin
 
Sounds like it could be right. One of the wires on the coil + should be the feed from the ignition switch. The other should connect to the resistor at the alternator. It should connect to the side of the resistor AWAY from the alternator. The other end of the resistor should have a wire to the alternator. This is what I said you should check in my previous post. Isn't the resistor right on or near the alternator? It can't be hard to check that one wire!

Review the wiring diagram posted near the bottom of page 1 of this thread.
 
Update: I received my rebuild kit yesterday and rebuilt the alternator with all new components. The Tractor shuts off perfect now. I assume maybe one of the components int he alternator was fused together causing some type of voltage feedback!
 
Hopefully final update!!!!!
First off I want to thank everyone for helping me. If anyone is every around lower west Michigan send me a message and I will have a hot cup of coffee waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So here is the final resolve. My problem must have been 2 fold. First off, there must have been something wrong with the alternator because after rebuilding the alternator the tractor shut off fine. Yet after further inspection, the battery was not charging. I started tracing wires back from the dash cluster and fond a burnt connection on the lower right quick connect cluster. When I disconnected them, that prong was melted around it and the prong broke in half. I didn't really want to buy a new 100 dollar wiring harness at the moment so I cut the wire from both end and connected them directly. Tractor cranked, turned off correctly, and the battery is charging. This tractor has been a learning experience. This is my first mechanical break down and I drank a many beer scratching my head or swearing, but at the end of the day it has finally come together!
Thanks again.
 
Justbarf":26lmcuss said:
Update: I received my rebuild kit yesterday and rebuilt the alternator with all new components. The Tractor shuts off perfect now. I assume maybe one of the components in the alternator was fused together causing some type of voltage feedback!
Nope, not the problem.

I use to rebuild alternators for vehicles. Now it's cheaper to purchase a rebuilt alternator, with warranty, than to purchase parts.
Justbarf":26lmcuss said:
Hopefully final update!!!!! Yet after further inspection, the battery was not charging. I started tracing wires and found a burnt connection on the lower right quick connect cluster. I cut the wire from both end and connected them directly. Tractor cranked, turned off correctly, and the battery is charging.
Initial cause of your problem.
 
Eugene":3tzp0l7p said:
Justbarf":3tzp0l7p said:
Update: I received my rebuild kit yesterday and rebuilt the alternator with all new components. The Tractor shuts off perfect now. I assume maybe one of the components in the alternator was fused together causing some type of voltage feedback!
Nope, not the problem.

I use to rebuild alternators for vehicles. Now it's cheaper to purchase a rebuilt alternator, with warranty, than to purchase parts.
Justbarf":3tzp0l7p said:
Hopefully final update!!!!! Yet after further inspection, the battery was not charging. I started tracing wires and found a burnt connection on the lower right quick connect cluster. I cut the wire from both end and connected them directly. Tractor cranked, turned off correctly, and the battery is charging.
Initial cause of your problem.
Eugene,

Do you think the burnt wire was doing it all? I know it didn't hurt to rebuild the alternator, but you think the alternator was working fine and the melted wire was causing some type of voltage feed back?
 
Justbarf":18r5323r said:
. . . Do you think the burnt wire was doing it all? I know it didn't hurt to rebuild the alternator, but you think the alternator was working fine and the melted wire was causing some type of voltage feed back?
I think that is very likely the explanation.
 
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