184 overcharging battery

[hoythunter25]

That alternator has a built-in regulator. I'm not convinced the red dangling wire has anything to do with the charging system or your problem with it. It may just happen to be nearby.

Make sure you have a good clean connection where the green wire plugs into the alternator. Then add a temporary jumper from your top alternator connection (where the rubber boot is) to the green wire. See if that brings your alternator output down to a normal voltage. If so, you have a wiring problem. If not, you have an alternator (regulator) problem.

I will try this. Do I leave the green/plug connected while the jumper is in place or do I take the plug off while trying this?

 

[hoythunter25]

That alternator has a built-in regulator. I'm not convinced the red dangling wire has anything to do with the charging system or your problem with it. It may just happen to be nearby.

Make sure you have a good clean connection where the green wire plugs into the alternator. Then add a temporary jumper from your top alternator connection (where the rubber boot is) to the green wire. See if that brings your alternator output down to a normal voltage. If so, you have a wiring problem. If not, you have an alternator (regulator) problem.

If it has a built in regulator do I not need the white regulator on the outside?

 

[tst]

that is not a regulator, it is a ballast resistor

 

[Eugene]

that is not a regulator, it is a ballast resistor

You need the resistor. It's used to disconnect the alternator from the ignition system. It keeps the alternator from back feeding the ignition coil, letting you shut off the engine with the ignition switch.

Second photo provides a much clearer view of the alternator and wiring.

 

[Larry B]

Odd? The schematic only shows 3 wires going to the alternator. Your pic appears to have 4. And a red wire is not connected. Before swapping out the alternator i would get the wiring back to stock. Unfix what a backyard mechanic thought was better than what the IH engineers designed. After that troubleshoot the charging issue . Link to 184 manual
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Publ ... doSearch=Y

Is there multiple systems that were used? Where is the regulator in the diagram you posted? This is the one I had found previously....184 Wiring.pdf

That schematic is the same as the one in the link i sent. Just looks a little dufferent. That alternator is a standard Delcotron 10SI. It has an internal regulator. Using the schematic make sure the wires on the alternator terminate at the right place at the other ends. If the wiring is correct and it puts out 19v at the big terminal the alternator is faulty.

 

[hoythunter25]

That schematic is the same as the one in the link i sent. Just looks a little dufferent. That alternator is a standard Delcotron 10SI. It has an internal regulator. Using the schematic make sure the wires on the alternator terminate at the right place at the other ends. If the wiring is correct and it puts out 19v at the big terminal the alternator is faulty.[/quote]


The schematic is not the same, the one I posted shows four wires on the alternator as opposed to three like you mentioned on the one you posted.

 

[hoythunter25]

When doing the jumper technique do I leave the green wire/plug hooked up? Sorry I just dont want to screw something up and get the wrong result....

 

[Jim Becker]

When doing the jumper technique do I leave the green wire/plug hooked up? Sorry I just dont want to screw something up and get the wrong result....

You can leave it connected.

 

[Larry B]

That schematic is the same as the one in the link i sent. Just looks a little dufferent. That alternator is a standard Delcotron 10SI. It has an internal regulator. Using the schematic make sure the wires on the alternator terminate at the right place at the other ends. If the wiring is correct and it puts out 19v at the big terminal the alternator is faulty.

The schematic is not the same, the one I posted shows four wires on the alternator as opposed to three like you mentioned on the one you posted.[/quote]

It is the same schematic. The one you linked to shows the exciter resistor on the alternator. There are still 3 wires connected to the alternator. The zigzag in The schematic is the exciter resistor on the back of the alternator.

 

[hoythunter25]

I tried the jumper technique and I was still getting 19v so I removed the alternator and headed to the auto parts store. They tested it and it shut the machine down two times so they said it was bad. They found an alternator that was the same but the orientation of the housing was slightly different. I mounted it up and the orientation difference was fine. I started the tractor and now the volt meter reads 14.79v when running. Success! Thanks everyone!

I am still having the issue of the key not turning the tractor off. Does anyone have any insight what to try in that regard?

 

[outdoors4evr]

Check the resistor. It should be a 25 ohm resistor. Remove the wires from it and measure it with an ohmmeter.
Anything close is good.

 

[Jim Becker]

. . . They found an alternator that was the same but the orientation of the housing was slightly different. . .

It is probably just assembled in a different orientation. The two halves of the alternator can be rotated in quarter turn increments and bolted together. It will work OK whichever position it is in.

Outdoors4evr gave you the right thing to check on the remaining problem. The original resistor on the back of the alternator looks just like a common ballast resistor. Somebody may have substituted a ballast resistor. But a ballast resistor is less than 2 ohms and will not keep the engine from running with the switch off.

 

[hoythunter25]

. . . They found an alternator that was the same but the orientation of the housing was slightly different. . .

It is probably just assembled in a different orientation. The two halves of the alternator can be rotated in quarter turn increments and bolted together. It will work OK whichever position it is in.

Outdoors4evr gave you the right thing to check on the remaining problem. The original resistor on the back of the alternator looks just like a common ballast resistor. Somebody may have substituted a ballast resistor. But a ballast resistor is less than 2 ohms and will not keep the engine from running with the switch off.

Yes thanks Jim it worked just fine in the different orientation. Also I think you are correct on the resistor, I just went and tested it and it is only showing 1.5 ohms. So what is this resistor type called instead of a "common ballist resistor"? Or how do I source the correct one?

 

[Gary Dotson]

The correct resister does have the appearance of a common ballast resister, but much higher resistance value. Hamilton Bob has one listed but says it's a 4 ohm resister. My opinion, that's far too low. I'm not sure how high the resistance needs to be, to assure the engine will shut off, maybe 4 ohm is enough, but I'm skeptical. You could always use a diode in place of the resister.

 

[Eugene]

https://s101.photobucket.com/user/farma ... sort=4&o=3

Diagram #5 lists the value of the ballast resistor and the lamp. The lamp in the diagram is used to keep the alternator from back feeding the ignition system.

Tractor runs and shuts off with the ignition switch - per reading the original post.

 

[Jim Becker]

The original resistor was 25 ohms. The old part number in the catalog is 534784R1, replaced by 107558C1. The difference may be a change to a stamped steel mounting bracket that requires a shorter bolt. If you put the newer number into a google search, you can find them all over the place in the $15 to $20 range, not much more than an incorrect ballast resistor.

To reinforce Eugene's comment, Note that in diagram 5 the ballast resistor shown is actually in the ignition circuit. The bulb (and diode option) shown does the function of the resistor we are talking about.

 

[Eugene]

I wouldn't be concerned about the exact value of the ballast resistor attached to the back of the alternator at this time, - because the tractor shuts off with the ignition switch.

And I assume there is a second resistor, in series, in the ignition coil.

And that circuit is also used to excite the alternator upon engine start up, and is apparently working.

Suggest solving the overcharging problem first.

 

[hoythunter25]

I wouldn't be concerned about the exact value of the ballast resistor attached to the back of the alternator at this time, - because the tractor shuts off with the ignition switch.

And I assume there is a second resistor, in series, in the ignition coil.

And that circuit is also used to excite the alternator upon engine start up, and is apparently working.

Suggest solving the overcharging problem first.

The overcharging issue is solved, the alternator was bad and I purchased a new one but the tractor still doesn't shut off with the key.

 

[Eugene]

The overcharging issue is solved, the alternator was bad and I purchased a new one but the tractor still doesn't shut off with the key.

Simple check. Start engine, turn key off, disconnect on of the wires from the resistor. If engine dies, you will need to upgrade the resistor(s). Diode would be an easy upgrade.

Quote from unknown source.

Our Ballast Resistor is designed to be used in conjunction with our available External Resisted Ignitions Coils. External Resisted Ignition Coils have an internal resistance of 1.5 Ohms and when combined with the Ballast Resistor you get a total resistance of 3.0 Ohms which is necessary for 12 Volt ignitions systems.

 

[hoythunter25]

[/quote]Simple check. Start engine, turn key off, disconnect on of the wires from the resistor. If engine dies, you will need to upgrade the resistor(s). Diode would be an easy upgrade.

I will try that thanks! Is there any write ups on doing the diode upgrade? What all do I need to purchase? Any pictures? Sorry I am not an electrical whiz of any sort..