184 clutch recommendations

H

Hipo giddyup

Active member
I've tried to get the clutch unstuck several ways and finally decided to replace the clutch, throw-out bearring, pressure plate, etc. (after all it is 40 years old). Anyone have recommendations on where to get a very good replcement clutch kit? Since I'm in there I will be replacing the PTO belts with new IH belts. But, I would think the IH clutch kit would be 2 times what others offer. Any input is greatly apprecaiated!
 
So I got the clutch and pressure plate out, actually not as bad as I thought. Found that the throw out bearring was done so glad I,m replacing it all. I ordered a pilot bearring but unsure how it comes out? It is a legit bearring, not the bronze bushing I’m used to dealing with found on my classic Fords. Any ideas on its removal??
 
I changed both the bearing and the carrier as an assembly.
I have used both HamiltonBobs and Steiner clutches in my 184. Both work well. The hub (and driveshaft) seems to wear faster than the clutch face material. The splines start looking more like triangles then squares.
 
I've read that in other posts so I'll take a look at the drive shaft once I'm back under the tractor. Last I checked, when removing it, there looked very square..
In a set of older instructions from this forum, from 2011 which were very detailed and extremely helpful, it mentioned about loosening and removing 3 allen screws from the u joint couplers to slide the driveshaft. Well, I only had one that I could find and loosen to drop the driveshaft?

I had another question about pilot bearing removal. I took the flywheel down to have it turned, and realized the pilot bearing is in the flywheel and not the crank. So, the machine shop took it out for free, likely to turn the wheel, so that answers that question. :-) I'll chill the new one when I get it, to put it back.
I found that one of the 3 fingers had a pretty good wear mark on it. Maybe the fingers/springs were worn out not realeasing the clutch?? The clutch disc looked good, but I will say the pressure plate had the "design" of the clutch material etched-like on its surface. Don't think it would have broken free anytime soon.
 
There are four Allen head set screws on the u joint assembly. Two in front of the u-joint and two behind the u-joint. They are 90 degrees from each other. One lines up with the keyway.

May as well replace the pilot bearing while you are there. Mine went in without a lot of fuss, but make sure it slides on your driveshaft before putting it into the flywheel. Most are a little tight and won't slide on the driveshaft. Drill to fit or turn down the driveshaft. (I drilled)

Definitely replace the pressure plate. It doesn't take much finger wear for it to not do the job. The pressure plate is not adjustable so there isn't much that can be done to "fix" worn fingers.
 
Thx outdoors, good info. I know that my allen head/like socket only hit one allen head screw. I tried it in each of the other holes and nothing. I need to doublecheck and make sure they weren't left out or virbrated out? I'm going to pull the drive shaft completely out today and look at the spline and the allen head holes. Again, I took one loose asnd was able to easily slide the driveshaft out of the clutch. I tucked it up above the gear box so it was out of my way.

Good info as well on the pilot bearing. I would never have thought to try the spline in it before install. I ordered everything a day ago and it has already shipped from Hamilton Bobs. They seem spot on, I was very happy with my first order of hoses, head gasket, etc and good quality parts.

The only worry I have now is in getting the old belts out from the electirc PTO set-up. I read where one person recommended removing one nut/bolt and slipping the belts out, push in the new, and retightned to the "same" amount of threads before removal?? Then doing this for the other two, totaling three times. Anyone have any other suggestion? Last thing I need is to screw up the PTO.
 
Count the exposed bolt threads on the electric PTO and take a picture of it before you disassemble it. That way you can put it back to the same place as it is currently. These are not bolts that you "tighten." Too tight and your PTO won't disconnect. Too loose and your PTO won't stay engaged.

The PTO belts must be a matched set and are very stiff.
 
Thanks again. I bought a matched belt set from Hamilton Bob’s and they are very stiff and shiny.
One thing I did forget to purchase was a clutch alignment tool. Does anyone know if these can be had locally? Maybe without going through the IH dealer? Not sure if tractor supply would carry a clutch alignment tool for a cub but I’ll try there next.
 
A wood dowel, the proper size to fit the pilot bearing (5/8 on a Cub, not certain about the 184) then wrap with duct tape till it fits snugly in the splines of the clutch disc.
 
Never needed it on the 184. This is easiest done from underneath the tractor. It can be done from above, but its much harder and slower.

Install the pilot bearing and mount the flywheel to crank and torque to spec. (if not already done)
Mount the pressure plate loosely to the flywheel with the clutch trapped loosely inside. Install the PTO drive pulley to the flywheel and torque to spec.
Install the PTO belts loosely. Slide the throwout bearing carrier and the u-joint carrier onto the driveshaft. Install the driveshaft making certain that it is fully inserted in the pilot bearing - This takes a bit of time to line up the clutch and pilot bearing as it is impossible to see what you are doing.

The driveshaft with the u-joint carrier should clear the transmission by 1/4" before you slide the u-joint carrier back onto the transmission input shaft. If you have less space, then it probably isn't all the way in the pilot bearing.
Once you have the driveshaft mounted (u-Joint carrier is on the transmission input shaft) push the driveshaft forward into the pilot bearing and tighten the allen head screws on the u-Joint carrier (all 4).

Now go back and tighten down the pressure plate bolts to spec.
Rotate the throwout bearing carrier so that the zerk is on the left side of the tractor (looking forward from the seat) and install the clutch fork.
Adjust fork so that when clutch released, there is a hairs width of space between the throwout and the fingers. The throwout should be able to turn freely when the clutch is released.
I typically connect steering rod and start the tractor, drive it around a bit and adjust the clutch at this point - before putting all the rockshaft parts and the PTO Belt Tensioner back on. If satisfied with the clutch, then button it up.
 
Now that is some good advice and in great detail. I hope to get started on the tractor tonight or tomorrow and hopefully have it finished and driving around this weekend. Much appreciated outdoors4evr!!
 
Just got finished installing the fly wheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and driveshaft. I took the driveshaft completely down and I will say the spline has square teeth and they are not angled or similar to a triangle shape. I guess that’s a good thing? I will say that I was missing three out of the four Allen head screws so I went to the local hardware store and bought three, installed the driveshaft which took a bit of wiggling but finally got everything back together and buttoned up. I feel pretty happy about it. I let the clutch out in first, and then in reverse while it was in the garage and it did move as normal. There was a little bit of a chatter at first but then it went away? I noticed the throw out bearing is not spinning while the clutch is a neutral. However I will drive it around tomorrow and see if I need to adjust it. Right now it seems pretty stiff and is touching all fingers, maybe pushing in too far? I’ll have to see how it works tomorrow but so far so good. My only issue tonight was after servicing the valves and installing a new head gasket, recently, etc., the tractor seems harder to start? Maybe I just need to have it run for a while since it hasn’t run in years? Likely some turning on the carburetor, perhaps checking the timing one more time. I feel I’ve done it several times since the tractors been running anyway. Thanks again for everyone’s help with this so far!!
 
Well I finally got the clutch adjusted better and took it out for its first spin in several years. Obviously my luck with the PTO adjustment was right on as it engaged disengaged without a problem. I was able to make a few swipes cutting grass after everything had been well greased. Did a fairly good job yet it still seems like it’s under powered? I think I might need some adjustment to the timing and/or the carburetor although this is not my specialty. Thanks to everyone who helped me get this far with it.
 

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Good to see you got it out of the shop and getting it back to work!
If mowing that tall stuff , that's a pretty good load on a 59" mower. Might take two passes (one with the deck higher) then cut it down to lawn height.

I'm certain you will get it tuned in and running at the top of its game!
 
Well, I've tore it down to replace the head gasket, and now tore it apart to replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearings, and PTO belts.. You would think tuning the carb and timing would be easy? LOL

That meadow grass is too much for it even with the deck rasied up. I was only cutting half the mower deck width, raised up, and it was taxied. Cutting normal grass is not a problem, and that's all she will ever do for me. Now that this one is checked off, I am getting to work on my father's JD 140 H4 with the front loader. Last time it ran it just stopped moving (hydro tranny problem I guess). That will be another can of worms.

Thanks outdoors4evr for all your input here! You've been a big help.
Bill
 
Future note; Put white grease on the pilot bearing and drive shaft splines. I wish I drilled a small hole in the clutch disc to lube the disc splines.
 
BigBill":3ngxv4e6 said:
Future note; Put white grease on the pilot bearing and drive shaft splines. I wish I drilled a small hole in the clutch disc to lube the disc splines.
Click to expand...
Not sure how you would access this on a 184. The splines are very difficult to reach. Definitely do apply grease to the splines when you have the opportunity though. They need it!
 
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