147 start issue

S

spaceghost

501 Club
I have a 147 that will not start until you let go of the ignition key in the start position. I get 12 volts at the coil until the ignition key is in the start position and the positive side of the coil will drop to 0 until you let go of the key from the start positon.
Cub cadet 147 1.jpeg
 
Did that, No change. I thought that was the issue. I am also working on a 185 for customers. That 185 had a bad ignition switch. I put the old Cub cadet ignition switch on the 185 and the start generator turns over.
 
I assume the 147 turns over but doesn't start. So the old switch in the 185 would be expected to act the same. Try a temporary jumper across the B and I connections of the ignition switch.
 
The 147 will start when I let go of the key. I turn the key to the start position and the engine will turn over. I let go of the key and the engine will fire off and start. When I let go of the key I get 12 volts at the coil. I have a friend that has a 147 with the same issue
 
Last edited:
I am very confused as to what combinations of bits and pieces have given you which result. I take it that:
- the 147 with the original switch will turn over but not start until you release the key.
- installed a new switch in the 147 and it still turns over but not start until the key is released and the voltage at the coil + still goes from 12 to 0 when the key is turned from ON to START.
- the 185 had a bad switch causing unknown behavior.
- the 185 with the old switch from the 147 turns over but it is unknown whether it will start or not.

The assumption in my previous post is that the 185 isn't starting either, which still says the switch is bad.
 
The 185 has a stuck engine. Not going to start this week. The 185 with its bad switch did not turn over the starter generator The point was the old switch from the 147 works. I put a meeter on the old 147 switch. It has continuity on all three posts when the key is on start. There is no resistor in the system
 
All your 185 test showed was that the old switch could energize the starter/generator of the 185. It did that on the 147. It did not show that it was passing enough voltage/current to the coil to start the engine. Did you measure resistance between the switch terminals while in the start position? Did you check voltage at the I lug of the old switch while it was still installed in the 147 while in the start position and the engine was turning?

Try a jumper wire from the switch I terminal to the coil.
 
I have been working on the cadet found a bunch of wires that were corroded and bare. The wire on the LIGHT terminal on the regulator (in the first diagram with the ?) was corrded in the harness and missing. I am not sure where that wire goes. Could not get my hands on a 147 wiring diagram. The one I found shows the wiring a bit differnt. G from the regulator shows going to the starter side of the solenoid. There is no sign of an extra wire there.
82ECB0CC-DEE7-4362-AD36-911CC52C45B0_1_105_c.jpeg
147 wire diagram.jpgwiring diagram .jpg
 
I don't see any indication of a "LOAD" terminal on the regulator in the wiring diagrams. I think you have a replacement regulator and the L was never connected on your 147. I see 2 differences between your diagram and one for a 147:
- regulator G connected at the solenoid rather than the A terminal of the generator. Doesn't matter electrically, just connecting at the other end of the same wire.
- PTO safety starting switch doesn't exist in the 147 diagram.

Your light wiring isn't shown in either diagram. It should have an in-line fuse between the ammeter minus and the light switch. The other light switch terminal can have up to 3 wires. One is the wire in the harness that goes to the headlights, the other 1 or 2 go to the tail lights. I guess the 147 tail lights always came in pairs with 2 separate wires.
 
switch has internal damage ,---more than likely corroded or worn out. got a z-force 48 did the same thing and had to put new switch in it. Sometimes my 147 AND 1250 does it too. Kinda a cc thing I guess.
Make sure your battery cables are good and well connected, the ground especially
Check the wire from switch to ignition. Sounds like when in start its dropping out either in the wires or inside the switch itself.
That multi plug has always been a problem for burning the spades so check it too. Wires may be loose/broke/damaged in the plastic connector. mine were on the z-force 48.
 
Cub Cadet 147 wiring diagram.jpg

I figured out the issue. As i mentined. I Installed a new ignition swith that did not solve the problem. I started digging into the wiring harnees and found corroded wires. I got my hands on the 147 wiring diagram and cut out most of the wiring and wired the cub myself. When starting the + coil side drops from 12 to 10 volts now and starts right up. It is runing fine now. The wiring was a mess, bare rusted wires. The wire that runs from the coil to the I side of the ignition swith I suspect was shorting out and dropping voltage.
 
wires on my 147 are junk too,---- previous owner did a hatchet job on it but it runs fine the way he re-wired it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top