127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

J

JimT

501 Club
Well I had a little play time today. I did a trial fit for the project today. I made a temporary spacer out of wood for the trial fit until the metal one I bought arrives. The finals actually fits pretty good. Had to grind down the two upper bolt holes on the left side to make them thinner to fit between the frame rails. This made it the same thickness as the original axle housing. The right side fit in without doing any modifications. I will have to do some work to the front axle. I think I might make a new one and make it a little wider as well as taller. By fitting the finals on I found out I can use up to a 31" tall tire without doing any fender modifications.

Here are some photos of the trial fit.

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I think it is going to be a bit unusual. :roll:
 
Thats going to be a rather slow mover with the double gear reduction - a 66 tooth reduction gear between the output shaft of the hydro (I don't know how may teeth are on the shaft) and the the pinion shaft that drives the ring gear, and then the reduction of the Cub finals, even with 31" tires........... but it will look good. :)
 
I thought about that. I don't think it will be much on speed, but I should have pulling power if it had enough weight.

Barnyard look out. :-:-):
 
Funny, I was just composing almost the same responce. I think there are 12 or 13 teeth on the "top" gear, gives you about 6 to 1 reduction. If you check Midwest Super Cub they have different ratios for the upper and lower reduction gears, but Im not sure how far they go. Nice looking machine. Im still going to build a 2 seater "Cubster". Frank
 
Putting a lift on your lawnmower ? Now that's a first ! Jeff Foxworthy would be proud :lol: :lol: Just kidding Jim ! I think it's cool ! Are you planning to pull with it or have clearance in the garden? Neato :big afro:
 
spiveyman":2b1xb2ho said:
Putting a lift on your lawnmower ? Now that's a first ! Jeff Foxworthy would be proud :lol: :lol: Just kidding Jim ! I think it's cool ! Are you planning to pull with it or have clearance in the garden? Neato :big afro:
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It's just going to be a play toy. Just something different to do. Probably make a good garden tilling machine though. :wink:
 
junkman1946":2k0nflhx said:
Funny, I was just composing almost the same responce. Im still going to build a 2 seater "Cubster". Frank
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Sounds cool. Post some pics when you get started.
 
junkman1946,

Frank I don't think MWSC has the different reduction gears for a hydro, but I think you are right about the number of teeth on the shaft, I believe it is close to the same number thats on the gear drive input shaft.
 
You will win a lot of slow races with that. If I was in charge of the slow race it would be disqualified for not being to be driven to the starting line at a reasonable speed. It dose look good.
 
Midwest cub offers some overdrive reduction gear ratios too. That will increase your speed or you can remove the reduction housing all together and just go with the finals?

Interesting it all bolts right in?

I was thinking of a 2"x3"x1/4" wall tubing for a new lowered front axle so it will sit level. You will need a higher block in the center on the hinge to level it better. A piece of 2"x4" tubing welded to the 2"x3" should be close but it depends on what tires you will have on the rear.

The 650-8 3 rib or the 850-8 5 rib tires would be awesome on the front?

How about using the fcub axle extention? Offset it like the fcub with cultivision? then use the int154 front axle assembly and offset that too. Then i would stretch the frame a little longer so it looks better.(wheelbase)
 
BigBill":zpocloe0 said:
Midwest cub offers some overdrive reduction gear ratios too. That will increase your speed or you can remove the reduction housing all together and just go with the finals?

Interesting it all bolts right in?

I was thinking of a 2"x3"x1/4" wall tubing for a new lowered front axle so it will sit level. You will need a higher block in the center on the hinge to level it better. A piece of 2"x4" tubing welded to the 2"x3" should be close but it depends on what tires you will have on the rear.

The 650-8 3 rib or the 850-8 5 rib tires would be awesome on the front?

How about using the fcub axle extention? Offset it like the fcub with cultivision? then use the int154 front axle assembly and offset that too. Then i would stretch the frame a little longer so it looks better.(wheelbase)
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I am currently working with a hydrostat drive, a 127 cadet. I am putting it back together now to see what kind of speed it will have with the 23" tires on it. I am thinking of using 31" tires though. If the speed is an issue I may have to go with a standard shift cadet and buy a set of the overdrive reduction gears. I guess trial and error at this point.
 
Well I put it together enough to take it on it's maiden voyage. I think this project will not be finished. I think it went about 1 mph for it's trial run. Too much reduction. I think I will put it back to the way it was and maybe just repaint it.

Here is what it looked like for its trial run.

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This would probably do go for tilling a garden.

I think I will have to look for a standard drive cadet and go with the overdrive gears for the gear reduction in the front. It doesn't look like the hydrostat is going to make a good choice. O'well, I only paid $100 for this cadet and it had wheel weights on it. So I guess I bought wheel weights and got the cadet for free. :lol:
 
I would try to remove the reduction on the trans first, don't give up, i think its a great idea.

I always wanted a tractor inbetween the size of a cub and cub cadet to play with but yet something that can do work too. I think your on to something keep going at it!!!!

The ground speed is also controlled by the tire diameter too. Smaller tire slower ground speed but more torque, larger tire more ground speed less torque. Somewhere the tire diameter when too large a diameter is used we lose all together. I been there with 4x4 trucks when the rear ratios needed to be lowered with monster tires. Were just working backwards starting out with gobs of power first and thats a good thing. If it works out with the power we need to load the tires and add wheel weights for traction. We will probably need front end weight too.

I just purchased a 108 for some more parts, this one is parts and not a runner.
 
I'm by no means an expert on these cadets. This is my first one, but I don't see how the front reduction gear could be removed and the hydrostat still work. I haven't seen any overdrive reduction gears for the hydrostats.

I have check and for the standard shift tranny you can get 46% overdrive reductions gears and I think that would be the easier way to go. It states that a cub cadet will go 31 mph with this gearing. I think that would be about right for this type of project by the time you take in account the reduction on the cub final drives.
 
Bigbill
The gear reduction is after the transmission. A hydrostatic transmission is totally hydraulic and is comprised basically of a hydraulic "pump and motor" in one housing. That's it. This pump and motor is not the same as a a hydraulic pump pumping fluid thru hoses to turn a remote hydraulic motor such as would be used in industrial applications, or in Case garden tractors (Case used a hydraulic drive system, and not a hydrostatic system). Basically the input shaft to the pump turns a swash plate that move pistons as the speed control is moved, that pumps fluid to the motor and moves more pistons which inturn move the swash plate in the motor ( remember that for each action there is an equal and opposite reaction ), which turns the output shaft. The splined or toothed output shaft of the hydraulic motor then turns the reduction gear which is mounted on the front of the pinion gear that inturn drives the ring gear in the the rear end. The hydrostatic pump/motor/transmission assembly is bolted to the front of the rear end housing. Without totally redesigning and recasting the complete rear end housing, the gear reduction cannot be removed.
 
Jim Hate to see ya give up, cause of a little stumbling block like this. I regret to say Ive never taken a Hydro apart. But if Paul Bell says the reduction gears on a Hydro are different from the Standard- thats good enough for me. Im going to keep your project turning over in my head and see if I can come up with some ideas. Frank
 
Frank, Jim
The gear drive reduction gear has 84 teeth and the input shaft has 12, (7 to 1 reduction), and the hydro reduction gear has 66 teeth but I don't know how many teeth are on the input shaft (actually the out put shaft of the hydrostatic transmission), but is is fairly close to what the gear drive input shaft has.

Jim, I'm not sure what it is your are after, but I built a "High Clear" version of a Cub Cadet (used a model 100with gear drive), that has 16" rear rims with 700x16 tires that were 29.2" tall. The rims were from a pickup and were mounted to the stock 12 centers that same way the 30" Farmall Cub High Clears were - 4 triangle tabs welded to the rim and the stock Cub Cadet 12" centers bolted to the tabs. The front wheels were the 12" fronts off of a 154 Lo-Boy. It was a little bit faster than stock, and about as fast as I wanted with the Cub Cadet steering system, but still had pulling power.
 
If you want to fix the gear reduction problem, just add larger wheels and space them out wide for stability. This Cub Cadet High Crop project that someone started was on ebay last month.

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Frank,
I'm not going to give up, just going to switch gears. Pardon the pun. :lol: After running it at about 1 mph almost wide open I don't think the hydrostat will be very practical. Going to shows it would take too long to get from the truck and trailer to where you park and sit for the shows. And I would like to have enough speed to drive in the tractor parades.

Paul,
I'm just doing a play toy and would like to stay with the final drives off a FCub. I think the gear reduction overdrive gears will solve the speed problem. If a regular cub cadet can go 31 mph with the 46% overdrive gears then I'm thinking with the FCub finals on the cub cadet tranny I should be able to get about 5-6 mph out of it. That would be fast enough for what we do and the parades.

Tim,
Even with the taller tires I don't think it would give enough speed for the parades. I didn't realize how much the finals slow down the cadet. There is almost another 6-1 gear ratio with the FCub finals. So if a cadet will go 6 mph then there is my 1 mph mine is going. With the tall tires like the one on ebay (by the way it is back on ebay now) doing a little math based on the circumference of a circle, if I am right (no math wizard here) then I think it would go about 2 mph. I'm just figuring you go twice as far with the taller tire in one revolution so it I think the speed would be twice as fast.

O'well. It's something to play with this time of year. I'm going to a garden tractor show today in Dickson, TN. May find a gear drive cadet there that I can switch gears on. :wink:
 
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