Well, I went and did it.

S

SplochPaw

New member
Thank you all for letting me join the community. I went out and purchased this 1950 Farmall cub. It was stuck, and I was able to free up the pistons, but once I dropped the pan I was met with rust everywhere...the engine was once filled with water up to halfway up the distributor drive. Luckily, I have not found any cracks in the block. I am going to do a full rebuild on it, and I have named it Stuck Norris.
This is the first tractor I have ever tackled. I have done small engines, Maytags and such before. I live in the city and have no garage, but I do have a walk-in basement and plan to tear it down into components and bring it inside for winter rebuilding.

I'm sure I will be posting and asking a lot of questions. I will try to search for my answers first.
 

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Welcome to the forum. After a required number of posts and time on the forum, you'll have access to a wealth of manuals, etc. Feel free to ask questions.
 
Stuck Norris! I love it!! Welcome aboard and congrats on the great purchase. One thing you may want to do before you sink a lot of money in the engine is pressurize the block and make sure there are no cracks in it. You can do that by capping off the inlet and outlet to the water jackets and having a Schrader valve in one of the caps. I've added a link to a post relating to that below. Have fun and good luck!!

ricky racer

Thread 'Engine Block Pressure Test'

A few weeks ago, I purchased a Cub with a cracked block from a forum member. I had a donor motor back in the barn so I thought I'd take a chance. Before making an offer on the Cub, I decided I'd better make sure the donor block was sound and wasn't cracked too. To test the block I purchased an 1-1/4" expandable rubber plug from a local hardware store and inserted it in the lower coolant inlet and snugged it up.

Plug 1.jpg

Next I took a scrap piece of 1/4" steel and drilled 2 bolt holes to attach it to the head in place of the upper coolant inlet using a piece of gasket materal...
 
Ricky, with your permission, I would like to move your thead to the how to forum. We use to be able to copy threads, but we no longer have that option.
 
Welcome
As you go through the journey, please keep in mind that we love pictures. It's always nice to keep track of a project from begining to completion. We're here to help when and if you need it.

Hutch
 
Thanks all. Since this is a long term project, over the weekend I stripped it down to components and have it all in the basement. I decided to start with the right final drive. I finally got it stripped down and checked the bearings. the input shaft bearing is rough, and the outside taper bearing spins fine, but the cage is bent up. I think I will replace all of the bearings, but should I replace the races as well? They look great, but I don't want to ruin new cones if I should also replace them. That seal in the retainer that is between the hub and outer cone is a real bear to get out. I ended up gutting it and knocking it out with a punch. Is there an easier trick to this? I have also found that sacrificing a tiny amount of blood to the tractor gods seems to make things go smoother.
 
SplochPaw said:
Thank you all for letting me join the community. I went out and purchased this 1950 Farmall cub. It was stuck, and I was able to free up the pistons, but once I dropped the pan I was met with rust everywhere...the engine was once filled with water up to halfway up the distributor drive. Luckily, I have not found any cracks in the block. I am going to do a full rebuild on it, and I have named it Stuck Norris.
This is the first tractor I have ever tackled. I have done small engines, Maytags and such before. I live in the city and have no garage, but I do have a walk-in basement and plan to tear it down into components and bring it inside for winter rebuilding.

I'm sure I will be posting and asking a lot of questions. I will try to search for my answers first.
Click to expand...
I understand a small shop. Good to have you on board.
 
The first thing on the bench to rebuild on Stuck Norris is the left final drive. I decided to replace all bearings and races, as well as seals. I ordered a new input shaft and brake drum for this side because the drum came loose, slid down the shaft and was crooked. It not only ground down half of the inside of the drum, it also gouged up the imput shaft. I probably could have reused the shaft because the key and keyway are OK, but since I'm in there why not? TM Tractor is great, BTW.
These are some before pics. I am lousy at pictures, but I will try to post more. I have been scrubbing on this for 3 evenings now and it is currently on blocks outside coated with oven cleaner inside and out. Is there any tricks to get this black crude oil completely cleaned out of there?
 

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SplochPaw said:
Is there any tricks to get this black crude oil completely cleaned out of there?
Click to expand...
Hi,
It's probably old gear oil in the final drive. Kerosene is what the Cub owner's and operator's manuals say to use for cleaning Cub parts. Use a stiff parts brush for tough oil and grease, or a paint brush, to clean parts.
Be sure to replace the broken brake drum lock bolt, the drum must be tightened on the shaft. :)
 
Before you install the new seals, make sure that there are no burrs or scratches where the seal is seated that might gouge the seal during installation and cause it to leak.

I noticed there are no dowel pins (two: one on top and one on the bottom) in the final, so make sure that they are in the transmission housing. Without those dowel pins you risk movement of the final housing and thus loosening of the bolts and eventually potential cracking.

If you haven't tried it before, to clean the brake lining, assuming the lining is still intact, simply take a propane torch and burn any soaked-in oil out of it.

Also, if you have not installed a final before, be careful to get the brake pin aligned in the 2 holes (one in the final and one in the transmission housing) before you try to bolt the final down. Otherwise you risk breaking out the casting where the pin goes in.
 
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