Intermittent power to coil

S

Super A

501 Club
Here's the situation. Remember, I am dumber than a bag of hammers when it comes to diagnosing electrical problems!

6 volt system, positive ground, with voltage regulator. It seems to not be getting power to the coil. Runs great if you straight wire the coil to the negative post on the battery. Also not showing a charge on the ammeter. I was using the tractor on Saturday, straight-wired to the battery, but I also pull the ignition switch out like normal. It's still connected to the coil like normal with my straight wire sandwiched in on the coil. When I got ready to shut it off, my straight wire didn't kill it, but the ignition switch did. When the problem first started happening, I noticed sometimes I had power, sometimes I didn't.

I've done a quick check of my wiring and don't see any broken/bare wires. Will a malfunctioning regulator affect power to the coil? I don't think I've ever heard of this but trying to rule out all issues....

thanks,
Al
 
battery voltage at switch to power system, battery voltage at coil when switch is on, you can show no voltage depending upon points position of them being open or closed, charging system is working while its running providing power to coil to keep it running when switch is on, these old push pull switched can be a pita as they are old now
 
tst said:
battery voltage at switch to power system, battery voltage at coil when switch is on, you can show no voltage depending upon points position of them being open or closed, charging system is working while its running providing power to coil to keep it running when switch is on, these old push pull switched can be a pita as they are old now
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I have wondered about the switch. The original completely came apart last summer, I had an old one in a box of goodies that I replaced it with. I'm gonna get that figured out and then figure out the regulator. It's close to 15 years old so It's probably about time.....

Al
 
watch out for the repro switch, they are pretty bad I have found, I use a modern switch from napa and put the old knob on it
 
tst said:
watch out for the repro switch, they are pretty bad I have found, I use a modern switch from napa and put the old knob on it
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While I'm a stickler for originality, I'm sorely tempted to go to the key switch they used on the 60s Cubs with push button start. I think I'll have to drill out the instrument panel to make one fit. We'll see.....

Al
 
Super A said:
While I'm a stickler for originality, I'm sorely tempted to go to the key switch they used on the 60s Cubs with push button start. I think I'll have to drill out the instrument panel to make one fit. We'll see.....

Al
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Well, I don't see in this thread what you have but if it's 6v pos ground, most likely you have a saddle switch with a pull rod for the starter. That said, if you change to a key switch/push button or solenoid system you'll have to convert the starter nub to a stud for the battery cable connection. BTDT. It's not very complicated, the most challenging part for me was to get the starter nub changed out because it requires a disassembly of the starter since the connections are internally soldered. JMHO Stan
 
Super A said:
While I'm a stickler for originality, I'm sorely tempted to go to the key switch they used on the 60s Cubs with push button start. I think I'll have to drill out the instrument panel to make one fit. We'll see.....

Al
Click to expand...
I installed a momentary pushbutton switch on my 1973 Cub Cadet, in addition to the key starter switch. What I didn't like about only having a key switch, was if I just wanted to "jog" the tractor forward or back, I couldn't do it without taking the chance of the engine starting. Adding the pushbutton fixed that.
 
Super A said:
................. I'm sorely tempted to go to the key switch they used on the 60s Cubs with push button start. I think I'll have to drill out the instrument panel to make one fit........
Click to expand...
Well, now I'm confused. If this setup don't require a solenoid and a stud connection on the starter, how does it work? :unsure: Stan
 

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Re-reading the post from the beginning, looks like in #5 Al was thinking about drilling the dash and installing a push button switch. While this would be a manual/mechanical connection and not need a magnetic solenoid I don't see any other way to make the connection at the starter without converting the nub to a stud. I've got a couple like this on AVERY V's and that's the way it works. I also had a Cub 6v starter changed to a stud for my own convenience and the starter shop had to take it apart, D/C the nub and solder in a stud. This was all done as a complete/total reconditioning of a starter. That being said, it the intent is to only replace the push/pull OEM switch then the 2 pole key switch would do the job. JMHO Stan
 
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