Getting My Tractor Ready For Work

F

freedhardwoods

Active member
I bought my 230 last weekend. I am gone from home Monday morning till Friday afternoon so fixing some of these minor things may take a few weekends.
The guy bought it from had an ethanol gas in it. I am wanting to drain the system and get good gas in it. I have a 500 gallon propane tank at home that I have set up with an electric fuel pump and a 20' hose because I have 2 pickups that need non alcohol gas as well as lots of small engines.
The left brake is sticking when you apply it going forward. All you have to do is roll it back four or five inches and it releases. I've never been into the brakes on a Farmall but I doubt if they made it too complicated.
It has some kind of contraption in line on the hydraulic system that raises and lowers the fast hitch. I'm not sure what it is, but I've seen other tractors that don't have it, plus I hit it with a hammer and broke a fitting when I was trying to work on the seat so I'm taking it out.
It has the old 6 volt system on it and I'm going to switch it over to a 12 volt alternator and battery.
I'm going to add a bracket so I can put a top link on and use some of my three point implements.
Every picture I try to put on Here. I get a "file is too big" notice. That doesn't happen, on the other forums I'm on.
I finally figured out how to resize on my phone.

20260823_063751.jpg
 
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I run ethanol laced fuel here in everything but add Stabil 360 to it. I put it in when I fill my fuel containers. Only takes 1 oz. per 5 gallons. It cleans and stabiles fuel. Haven't had any problems in the 5 or so years I've ben using it.

Open this link to the Case-IH online parts book: https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...6875BD6?serial_number=&isSnFilterEnabled=true You will see an exploded view of your brakes. Disconnect the actuating rod and 5 bolts holding the cover on and the unit will come off in your hands. Just about guarantee the steel balls in the actuating plate are a bit rusty. Separate the actuating plates by removing the springs, be careful the hooks can break off if very rusty. I always keep a couple on hand just in case. I use a 2" roloc disc with a 90º air die grinder to clean the steel balls, and perfect for cleaning up the grooves they ride in. You can buy new steel balls if you don't want to mess with it. Use the part number listed to find new ones, I'm sure aftermarket one's are less. Mine are the originals and work fine after cleaned up.

I put a VERY light coat of Never seize on the balls and in the grooves and reassemble. Rough up the surface of the brake discs if they seem waxy. Medium sandpaper will work, but I also use the gasket removal discs to buff the surfaces on the discs too. A handy little tool you'll use more than you realize. Reassemble and adjust if necessary, or to your liking. They will stop you abruptly but not grab.

I have to do mine every 2-3 years because of the humidity, or going through the spring sweats if it will be parked in an unheated building. It may take me 20 minutes doing each side if I have the tools at hand for the job.

I believe the contraption you are referring to is the check valve shown here: https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...actor/cn/9BCC6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 They take the load off the control valve. I removed them from my 2 Farmall Super C's because they would not let the drawbar drop. Took them apart and cleaned/reassembled and still did not work correctly. I just bought new hoses to reach from the control port to the cylinder. Both have been removed for 25+ years and no issues other than the drawbar or implement may drop over a period of time. One is hooked to the manure spreader all the time unless needed for something else. I just set a block under the spreader jack stand and set it down.
AgriculturalEquipment
 
One other problem I found, if your post is too big, it won't post either, so here is the rest of my message. Thank goodness for copy & paste.


To each their own, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with the 6V system if the generator works properly and you get a good voltage regulator. I highly suggest a Standard Motor Products/ SMP VR214 regulator. One has been on my one Super C for 6 or so years with no issues. But, as mentioned to each their own. Proper battery cable size is very important too. A minimum of 1/0 cables, but for the price difference I get 2/0 cables. If your battery is properly charged, you'll thing it has a 12V battery in it, it really spins it over.
 
DJ54 said:
I run ethanol laced fuel here in everything but add Stabil 360 to it. I put it in when I fill my fuel containers. Only takes 1 oz. per 5 gallons. It cleans and stabiles fuel. Haven't had any problems in the 5 or so years I've ben using it.

Open this link to the Case-IH online parts book: https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...6875BD6?serial_number=&isSnFilterEnabled=true You will see an exploded view of your brakes. Disconnect the actuating rod and 5 bolts holding the cover on and the unit will come off in your hands. Just about guarantee the steel balls in the actuating plate are a bit rusty. Separate the actuating plates by removing the springs, be careful the hooks can break off if very rusty. I always keep a couple on hand just in case. I use a 2" roloc disc with a 90º air die grinder to clean the steel balls, and perfect for cleaning up the grooves they ride in. You can buy new steel balls if you don't want to mess with it. Use the part number listed to find new ones, I'm sure aftermarket one's are less. Mine are the originals and work fine after cleaned up.

I put a VERY light coat of Never seize on the balls and in the grooves and reassemble. Rough up the surface of the brake discs if they seem waxy. Medium sandpaper will work, but I also use the gasket removal discs to buff the surfaces on the discs too. A handy little tool you'll use more than you realize. Reassemble and adjust if necessary, or to your liking. They will stop you abruptly but not grab.

I have to do mine every 2-3 years because of the humidity, or going through the spring sweats if it will be parked in an unheated building. It may take me 20 minutes doing each side if I have the tools at hand for the job.

I believe the contraption you are referring to is the check valve shown here: https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...actor/cn/9BCC6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 They take the load off the control valve. I removed them from my 2 Farmall Super C's because they would not let the drawbar drop. Took them apart and cleaned/reassembled and still did not work correctly. I just bought new hoses to reach from the control port to the cylinder. Both have been removed for 25+ years and no issues other than the drawbar or implement may drop over a period of time. One is hooked to the manure spreader all the time unless needed for something else. I just set a block under the spreader jack stand and set it down.
AgriculturalEquipment
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the info. That helps a lot
 
freedhardwoods said:
I bought my 230 last weekend. I am gone from home Monday morning till Friday afternoon so fixing some of these minor things may take a few weekends.
The guy bought it from had an ethanol gas in it. I am wanting to drain the system and get good gas in it. I have a 500 gallon propane tank at home that I have set up with an electric fuel pump and a 20' hose because I have 2 pickups that need non alcohol gas as well as lots of small engines.
The left brake is sticking when you apply it going forward. All you have to do is roll it back four or five inches and it releases. I've never been into the brakes on a Farmall but I doubt if they made it too complicated.
It has some kind of contraption in line on the hydraulic system that raises and lowers the fast hitch. I'm not sure what it is, but I've seen other tractors that don't have it, plus I hit it with a hammer and broke a fitting when I was trying to work on the seat so I'm taking it out.
It has the old 6 volt system on it and I'm going to switch it over to a 12 volt alternator and battery.
I'm going to add a bracket so I can put a top link on and use some of my three point implements.
Every picture I try to put on Here. I get a "file is too big" notice. That doesn't happen, on the other forums I'm on.
I finally figured out how to resize on my phone.

View attachment 75626
Click to expand...
Brakes are easy to work on. My channel kinda shows what they look like in side and Pete (Just a few acres) shows how to assemble on his Super C rebuild.
Anways, disconect the linkage, pull the 5 bolts off the house it slisp off then the discs are there pull them off. Discs are attached via springs you can take them apart and clean them.
The big bar on the left when you run the left arm that will twist the fast hitch right and left. There are three ways you can have it set. You'll want to remove that if you open up the break.
While yours is different than my 200, what you broke a fitting on is the check valve for the fast hitch. The 200 blocks are rare as hens teeth guessing the 230s even more so. I would suggest getting a new hydraulic fitting and repairing it.

Nice looking tractor I do love the White behind the name plates of the 30/50 series.
 
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DJ54 said:
I run ethanol laced fuel here in everything but add Stabil 360 to it. I put it in when I fill my fuel containers. Only takes 1 oz. per 5 gallons. It cleans and stabiles fuel. Haven't had any problems in the 5 or so years I've ben using it.

Open this link to the Case-IH online parts book: https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...6875BD6?serial_number=&isSnFilterEnabled=true You will see an exploded view of your brakes. Disconnect the actuating rod and 5 bolts holding the cover on and the unit will come off in your hands. Just about guarantee the steel balls in the actuating plate are a bit rusty. Separate the actuating plates by removing the springs, be careful the hooks can break off if very rusty. I always keep a couple on hand just in case. I use a 2" roloc disc with a 90º air die grinder to clean the steel balls, and perfect for cleaning up the grooves they ride in. You can buy new steel balls if you don't want to mess with it. Use the part number listed to find new ones, I'm sure aftermarket one's are less. Mine are the originals and work fine after cleaned up.

I put a VERY light coat of Never seize on the balls and in the grooves and reassemble. Rough up the surface of the brake discs if they seem waxy. Medium sandpaper will work, but I also use the gasket removal discs to buff the surfaces on the discs too. A handy little tool you'll use more than you realize. Reassemble and adjust if necessary, or to your liking. They will stop you abruptly but not grab.

I have to do mine every 2-3 years because of the humidity, or going through the spring sweats if it will be parked in an unheated building. It may take me 20 minutes doing each side if I have the tools at hand for the job.

I believe the contraption you are referring to is the check valve shown here: https://www.mycnhstore.com/us/en/ca...actor/cn/9BCC6496-EFBE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 They take the load off the control valve. I removed them from my 2 Farmall Super C's because they would not let the drawbar drop. Took them apart and cleaned/reassembled and still did not work correctly. I just bought new hoses to reach from the control port to the cylinder. Both have been removed for 25+ years and no issues other than the drawbar or implement may drop over a period of time. One is hooked to the manure spreader all the time unless needed for something else. I just set a block under the spreader jack stand and set it down.
AgriculturalEquipment
Click to expand...
I followed that link in your post but I don't see which part number it is.
 
ShawnAgne said:
Brakes are easy to work on. My channel kinda shows what they look like in side and Pete (Just a few acres) shows how to assemble on his Super C rebuild.
Anways, disconect the linkage, pull the 5 bolts off the house it slisp off then the discs are there pull them off. Discs are attached via springs you can take them apart and clean them.
The big bar on the left when you run the left arm that will twist the fast hitch right and left. There are three ways you can have it set. You'll want to remove that if you open up the break.
While yours is different than my 200, what you broke a fitting on is the check valve for the fast hitch. The 200 blocks are rare as hens teeth guessing the 230s even more so. I would suggest getting a new hydraulic fitting and repairing it.

Nice looking tractor I do love the White behind the name plates of the 30/50 series.
Click to expand...
I have watched a lot of pete's videos, even before I bought my tractor.
I did watch the one where he was reassembling the brakes.
Do you have a link to your channel?
If that is allowed on this forum.
 
I am writing these responses on my phone. I would have combined the 2 posts above but I can't figure out how to do it on the phone.

I got a few things down on my tractor this past weekend.
I replaced the broken fitting on the hydraulic valve and left the valve in line but now it has a slow drip leak. I will get back to that soon.
I drained the ethanol gas out and put in good gas.
I was also able to switch it over to 12 volts although I didn't have the right size belt, and we were short on time, so I just threw together a bracket just to see if it would work. I'm going to fabricate a better bracket when I get time.
I still haven't got the starter fixed so we pull started it just to see if it was charging.
Also, several years ago I had bought a 300 utility tractor and neither my son nor me fit on it very well (we are big dudes) and I ended up selling it, but I kept the extra fast hitch prongs that came with it. I'm going to fabricate a way to be able to use my 3 point equipment.


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I took the check valve out when I was trying to get the hydraulics to work again after changing the oil. The hose that was there is long enough with that valve gone.

20260905_124650.jpg

I took the pan for the air filter off to check it and this is what I found. I wonder how long it's been running without filtering the air. 🙄

20260904_160553.jpg

The left brake. was hanging up so I took the assembly apart. It was very clean and the pads have very little wear on them. It looks like somebody may have tried to lube the balls and the lube dried up. Not sure if that was what was making it hang up or not. Haven't gone on a test drive yet.
I lubed the balls with graphite spray (dry lube that doesn't clump up like other lubes when they dry out), roughed up the brake pads with sandpaper as @DJ54 suggested, and cleaned the ramps where the balls rest.

20260905_111830.jpg

The oil pressure guage was working, but I wanted to be able to see the pressure a little better, so I changed the gauge.

20260905_123248.jpg20260905_123229.jpg

I changed the engine oil and filter. It looked like it had been a while since that was done.
I'm taking a break right now and eating some lunch. After while, I'll start working on the fast hitch prongs that I have. The 230 uses the small ones, and the extra ones I have are the big ones. More details after while.
 
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