Fixing A Radiator After Cleaning.

R

RunningRed

Well-known member
Hey fellas I had a quick question about using the washing soda and distilled water for cleaning out the radiator and block. I drained the antifreeze out and flushed both the upper water jacket and drain hole with distilled water. I mixed up the cleaning solution and ran the tractor around the yard for over an hour. The solution from the radiator cap looks pretty clear, I think I flushed most everything else out of the motor and radiator already. However it's late and I don't have time tonight to drain the solution out and flush the motor again prior to adding antifreeze. Would it hurt sitting overnight till I can get back to it tomorrow? Would it cause any internal flash rusting sitting overnight?
 
Overnight is totally fine. Washing soda is alkaline so it actually protects against flash rust while it's sitting.
Flash rust is more of an issue after you do the final clean water rinse, that's when bare metal can flash up if you let it sit wet too long. So tomorrow just drain, do a couple distilled water flushes, and get the antifreeze in soon after the last rinse. You're good, get some rest!
 
Now I have a big problem, after I flushed it out again and put the new antifreeze in it is leaking. It looks to be coming from the engine side of the radiator down at the bottom. The cleaner must have cleared out a hole somewhere. Now I don't really know what to do. I just stripped and repainted the underside of the tank and put a new gas line on. Now I'm gunna have to take everything back apart again. Man I am just really frustrated about this. I know taking the radiator off is gunna mean heli coils but I don't know how to fix the radiator. I don't know if there are any shops around here to fix it or what it would cost.
 
RunningRed said:
................I don't know how to fix the radiator. I don't know if there are any shops around here to fix it or what it would cost.
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I experienced the same frustration with radiator repair shops. I think the EPA rules dealing with chemical handling and disposal put a lot of the ole time radiator repair shops out of business. There's a few left so probably best to search for one that will work on yours. I've had some success by calling the listed shops in the phone book and tell them what the problem is so they can give you a yes or no answer. Some will not take a repair job because the cub radiator is open on the bottom. There's some problems with new replacements fitting properly so good luck with your project. It's been a while since I had one done but it was about $100 for the cleaning and repair. JMHO Stan
 
staninlowerAL said:
I experienced the same frustration with radiator repair shops. I think the EPA rules dealing with chemical handling and disposal put a lot of the ole time radiator repair shops out of business. There's a few left so probably best to search for one that will work on yours. I've had some success by calling the listed shops in the phone book and tell them what the problem is so they can give you a yes or no answer. Some will not take a repair job because the cub radiator is open on the bottom. There's some problems with new replacements fitting properly so good luck with your project. It's been a while since I had one done but it was about $100 for the cleaning and repair. JMHO Stan
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That's what I was reading that there are issues with new ones. I'd hate to spend money on an old one that might spring another leak in the near future. Do you know of any reputable sellers. I wonder where Steiner get theres from?
 
Of course it will depend on the severity of the leak as to whether this will work- ground black pepper. Put about a tablespoon in and run the tractor. I’ve done this successfully and had it last for years.
 
tmays said:
Of course it will depend on the severity of the leak as to whether this will work- ground black pepper. Put about a tablespoon in and run the tractor. I’ve done this successfully and had it last for years.
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How does the pepper stop the leak?
 
While I agree that there is no such thing as a mechanic in a can, Bar’s Leaks Radiator Stop Leak may provide a temporary solution until a more permanent repair can be accomplished.
 
tmays said:
Of course it will depend on the severity of the leak as to whether this will work- ground black pepper. Put about a tablespoon in and run the tractor. I’ve done this successfully and had it last for years.
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Many years ago there was a product called Porter Seal. It was a powder that looked like treated sawdust and it came in a small can. You put the can full into the radiator and the powder would clot in the area of the hole. It worked. I used in my 57 Chevy wagon when I didn't have much money. The factory burned down and they just called it quits.

I still have an old school radiator shop in my area. He repaired my radiator as best as he could. Because of the open bottom, he wasn't able to pressure test it. He boiled it clean, did a visual inspection, found the hole, fixed it, and everything was good as new again.
 
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JMHO, the main drawback from the stop leak products working well is there is nothing to circulate the coolant/product so most of it settles in the bolster, the lowest point of the system. Stan
 
Below is a post from months ago talking about radiators. It has info about where to buy a new radiator.
https://farmallcub.com/community/threads/radiators.118887/

People like Hamilton Bob's, and J P Tractor salvage, they are on here. They are near the bottom of the Forums page. I've never bought a radiator there, I don't know how good they fit.
You may have to call them to ask, if they aren't shown on the website.
Be sure to ask for a radiator for a Farmall Cub, not a numbered series Cub LoBoy.

They have said on here that some replacement radiators have too short of a filler neck, then the radiator cap is too low, and scrapes on the hood when turning the cap.
 
I don't really want to put any kind of stop leak into the radiator. With it being not pressurized I don't know how good it would work and I don't want to clog up anything. Once it cooled down it quit leaking so it must be a small hole. I may try soldering it shut if I can even find it. Regardless I'm going to have to pull the radiator off.
 
RunningRed said:
I don't really want to put any kind of stop leak into the radiator. With it being not pressurized I don't know how good it would work and I don't want to clog up anything. Once it cooled down it quit leaking so it must be a small hole. I may try soldering it shut if I can even find it. Regardless I'm going to have to pull the radiator off.
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If it's only a tiny leak, JB Weld might be worth a try. I patched one with it several years back and it's still dry to this day.
 
Are there any radiator repair shops near you? I would take it out and pressure tested with the water hose or use a smoke machine if you have access to one, that be my next step depending on how urgent you need the fix. But the radiator shop can braze the leaks and be done with it.
 
Sternritter said:
Are there any radiator repair shops near you? I would take it out and pressure tested with the water hose or use a smoke machine if you have access to one, that be my next step depending on how urgent you need the fix. But the radiator shop can braze the leaks and be done with it.
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Just 1 that I have seen, it just looks like a home shop guy. Not to sure how confident I would be taking it there.
 
Well after some debate I decided to just replace the radiator with a new one. Not to sure where to get one from a reputable dealer, my guess would be steiner. It will have to put put on the back burner for now. I just have to many other things to do, hopefully I can get it done before next winter.
 
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