Head Bolts

goxu1 said:
Ok , the more I look the more it seems to be the max torque for a 3/8-16 is 45
The torque spec for the cub head bolts is 45 too.
So , like ntrenn said, should I just go to 40 with the sealant and be on the safe side ?
Click to expand...
When i did mine it felt like bolts could snap at any moment so at i think 35 i went just a few pounds then close to 45 i pulled a bit not nexesarily clicking wrench but let it rest a bit gonto next bolt thennit will click at torque
 
lyle11 said:
Thanks Glen. I was mostly just curious about Paul’s experience. Just to see how it all worked out for him. I have printed out the instructions with the bolt tightening sequence. I’ll be using the copper coat and sealer you recommended.

I am in Ohio, but this is the Cub that I was working on last October in Wisconsin. I inherited 80 acres with a house and shed and grew up there, so I go there about a half dozen times between April and October. Because of limited time there, and my sister mowing when I’m away, it’s harder to deal with breakdowns. I have 2 Cubs there, a 48 FCub and a 55 Lowboy. The engine I am installing a head gasket on was manufactured in 1969 which is installed in the Lowboy.

Last November, I bought a complete Cub engine. It was already off the tractor and I didn’t hear it run, but I trust him. He is very familiar with Cubs and sells complete engines. For $300 I could hardly go wrong because other than the hydraulic pump, it came with all the parts to “plug and play” including fan and clutch/pressure plate and underslung exhaust manifold. Carb is aftermarket China made. So worst case, I hope I don’t need the complete engine but I have a lot of extra parts.

I’m waiting for it to warm up there but I plan to get there and work on the head gasket in late April.
Click to expand...
Sorry , haven’t been on here much lately , and still haven’t got around to booting my head back on….
 
RunningRed said:
That what I was wondering, I'd like to build an engine with all new components then swap mine out if needed in the future.
Click to expand...
Forum sponsor JP Tractor lists a block cleaned/magnifluxed/checked for cracks etc. with components ready to build for $250, with new pistons $475. Link is on the bottom of the forums page. Stan
 
Beefie said:
Where and who is it selling complete cub engines for $300
Click to expand...
First of all, I live in NE Ohio where you can almost always find half a dozen Cubs for sale within 100 miles on Facebook Marketplace. I don’t want anything to do with “social media”, but use my wife’s Facebook Marketplace which is nice for buying and selling.

I’ll also say this is not a rebuilt or cleaned up engine. Just a running engine that this seller elected to sell as a complete unit instead of selling the parts. Also, for the price I didn’t concern myself with whether the engine is worn out or has decent performance. It was off the tractor, and I just had to take his word for it that it ran. But, I really couldn’t go wrong because it had everything (except the hydraulic pump), from the fan and belts to the pressure place including a Chinese carburetor (which actually works great after setting the float correctly based on Barnyard’s post).

I already hauled it up to my property in Wisconsin. Whether I ever really use it or not, it’s a great source of parts.

I also chose to look for an engine rather than wait until something broke. You’ll also find people here that want $300 just for a block. It’s kind of like any thing else, you need to be looking when you don’t need it and jump on it when you find what you’re looking for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top