Hi Guys,
New to the forum, just purchased a farmall cub with mower. Was tired of getting little lawn tractors that couldn't do much else. I bought this knowing it needed work and just going through now and fixing the major problems. Found that the governor control lever was broken and purchased a new one.
Here is a link to the part I purchased just as a reference. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284261664859?V ... 4261664859.
My question is how do I replace it. Watched a few videos and I see there should be a spring connected to it on the inside as well. I don't want to take the governor cover off and create more of a problem for myself while fixing it. Can anyone give me a little advice on the steps needed to replace it? Any help would be appreciated.
Josh
Broke the lever and how do I fix it.
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Re: Broke the lever and how do I fix it.
Welcome to the best Cub website on the planet!!
Once you have 2 posts, you'll be able to access all of the manuals at the top of the page. Below is a link to the manual section I think you'll need along with a page showing a parts breakdown. Look it over and if you still have questions, come back and ask away!! Good luck!!
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... System.htm



http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... System.htm

1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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Re: Broke the lever and how do I fix it.
1968 Cub Fast-Hitch
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Re: Broke the lever and how do I fix it.
Hi,
Welcome to the website.
You didn't say what year Cub you have.
The earlier Cubs had a longer arm than the newer Cubs.
IH changed to a shorter arm in about the mid 1950's.
That is probably why there are 2 holes in the replacement arm.
Some time ago a man on here with a 1955 Cub, I think, tried to use 1 of the replacement arms on his Cub, it looked about like the 1 in your pic, he said it wouldn't fit right, and hit on something, I guess.
He had to find a short arm to make it work.
Be sure to oil the shaft the arm goes on, it is common on Cubs for the arm to get tight on the shaft from no lube.
The governor spring has to be there, and be good, for the governor to work right. Old springs are sometimes weak.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new governor spring, if you need one.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gv/357fp.htm
To put a new spring on, I put one end in first, the top end, I think, then use pliers holding on the single wire of the spring, and twist the bottom end to the side slightly, to open the gap, so it will go onto the linkage.
Don't stretch the spring lots, it can deform it.
You might need the pliers to put the top end on too.
In Ricky's link above, in the specifications for the Cub, the maximum engine RPM for before engine serial number 312389 doesn't go back to the earlier Cubs. Cubs before serial number 192113 went 1800 RPM max speed. It is usually stamped into the serial number plate.
The max speed is not stamped in the plate on the newer Cubs.
The manual is probably the newer manual.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the 2 different lengths of arms.
Welcome to the website.
You didn't say what year Cub you have.
The earlier Cubs had a longer arm than the newer Cubs.
IH changed to a shorter arm in about the mid 1950's.
That is probably why there are 2 holes in the replacement arm.
Some time ago a man on here with a 1955 Cub, I think, tried to use 1 of the replacement arms on his Cub, it looked about like the 1 in your pic, he said it wouldn't fit right, and hit on something, I guess.
He had to find a short arm to make it work.
Be sure to oil the shaft the arm goes on, it is common on Cubs for the arm to get tight on the shaft from no lube.
The governor spring has to be there, and be good, for the governor to work right. Old springs are sometimes weak.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new governor spring, if you need one.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gv/357fp.htm
To put a new spring on, I put one end in first, the top end, I think, then use pliers holding on the single wire of the spring, and twist the bottom end to the side slightly, to open the gap, so it will go onto the linkage.
Don't stretch the spring lots, it can deform it.
You might need the pliers to put the top end on too.
In Ricky's link above, in the specifications for the Cub, the maximum engine RPM for before engine serial number 312389 doesn't go back to the earlier Cubs. Cubs before serial number 192113 went 1800 RPM max speed. It is usually stamped into the serial number plate.
The max speed is not stamped in the plate on the newer Cubs.
The manual is probably the newer manual.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the 2 different lengths of arms.

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Re: Broke the lever and how do I fix it.
Thanks for the input guys. I have a 1970 according from the guy I bought it from and looking at the serial number. From what I can see it looks like I can take the governor cover off without messing too much with what is inside. I will set the engine to Piston 1 at TDC just to be sure then remove the cover to replace the arm.
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Re: Broke the lever and how do I fix it.
Beesboysandtractors wrote:Thanks for the input guys. I have a 1970 according from the guy I bought it from and looking at the serial number. From what I can see it looks like I can take the governor cover off without messing too much with what is inside. I will set the engine to Piston 1 at TDC just to be sure then remove the cover to replace the arm.
Looks like you got it figured out on your own. Make sure you have the timing marks in line when you reinstall. You will also want to reset your governor to carb adjustment.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.


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