Changing Front Wheel Width

[Super A]

Now I am wondering if I took the axel off could I tie one end to a large post or tree and then hook the other end to a Come-A-Long winch and start pulling them apart all the while tapping the tube to break the bind? Has anyone else tried this?

I haven't but I've heard of people doing it. The wildest story I ever heard was someone taking a 1066 axle (same basic design as a Cub but much bigger) and building a fire and after there were plenty of hot coals, putting the whole axle in the fire until it was red hot!

Al

[andersonbw]

I've done it two ways: (1) lots of PB Blaster and a hydraulic separator as someone had suggested, (2) using heat and then twisting to get the inner tube to rotate BEFORE trying to slide it out.

I MUCH prefer the heat method. I used my propane burner (for frying a Turkey) to heated each side separately. I turned the burner up high and let it heat for over an hour. It doesn't get red hot (as it would with Oxy/Acetenyl) but it does get plenty hot enough to turn the rust into that black powder (whatever that is). Of course you will need to repaint but it does work.

Once it cooled, I put it on my workbench and clamped it down with one spindle on the bench and the other hanging over the side. I then took a dead blow mallet and whacked it down then up to get the inner tube to rotate within the outer tube. At first the rotation is small but after many smacks it begins to rotate more and more. Once it really begins to rotate, you can pull it out.

This rotation method was much easier and seemed much safer to me than putting a bunch of pressure trying to slide it out using hydraulics.

[WildFarmall]

Thanks so much andersonbw. I tried yesterday with heating with a small torch and lots of wd40 and had no results. I then bought some PB Blaster and another bottle jack.
Today, I will take your advice and spray with lots of PB Blaster and let it sit for an hour or so. Then I will heat with a large propane burner (I have two so I may use both) so that the whole axel is really hot. Then I will let it cool and try your methods. I think twisting first would be best but if that does not work I will use the two jack method as shown above. I am really worried that I will force something too much and break the axel. Probably hard to find a new one.

[ScottyD'sdad]

As it is cooling, spray some penetrant on it. Sometimes, it will suck in the oil, like soldering copper tubing. I just did that on a FH that refused to budge, otherwise.

Ed

[WildFarmall]

Hello everyone - I thought that I would give you an update. After about a week or so working on this I was able to get one side of the axel out after much effort. I used a lot of PB Blaster, propane heat, clamps of all kinds, and two bottle jacks, to wrestle one side out. When I tried to do the other side I could not get it to budge no matter what I tried. So I ended up taking it to a machine shop and they removed to using similar methods as I did but added a forklift - I kid you not. It also cost me too much money as they do not do anything cheap.
In any case I was happy to get the axel back and put it all together yesterday afternoon and this morning. I now have my front and rear wheel spacing at @ 4 feet which will be better for my organic farm. Thanks to all that offered advice.
I have not been able to download photos off of my phone to my computer but when I can I will add a couple here.