New to forum and Cubs

[Jobe05]

That’s the plug I pulled to drain it...... I have the tractor sitting on a slant toward that plug, that’s probably why I’m getting some out, but not a lot. I crawled under it and didn’t see a lower drain plug, but I guess a better search is needed.

I looked at the rears, just visually. I need to pull a lot of stuff off to get to the drain fill plug from what I read. I’m getting ready to go in for open heart surgery in the next couple of months so that may be more than I can tackle at this stage of the game. I started looking up videos on you tube earlier today on what I need to do but got side tracked with the transmision.

edit: I just looked it up in the manual and will crawl back under it tomorrow. And get the right plug. Seemed simple enough, but it just goes to prove that you need the manual!!!

[Glen]

Hi,
The transmission oil drain plug is at the bottom of the trans, visible from under the platform.

Good luck with the surgery.

[Jim Becker]

If you go to this page on the TM Tractor site, the drain plug can be seen in half the pictures (2,4, and 5).
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gtr/case_001.htm

[Donegal Cub]

Welcome to the forum from the Emerald Isle, this forum is truly international . The guys on here are brilliant. Thanks for the pics, looks like you got a nice tractor there, enjoy the ride.
Bernard, Donegal Cub.

[Donegal Cub]

Sorry Dale, the gals are brilliant too.
Bernard,
Donegal Cub.

[Dale Finch]

[Stanton]

That’s the plug I pulled to drain it...... I have the tractor sitting on a slant toward that plug, that’s probably why I’m getting some out, but not a lot. I crawled under it and didn’t see a lower drain plug, but I guess a better search is needed.

As Glen and Jim pointed out, the actual drain plug is at the lowest point in the transmission. If you got some fluid out at the fill plug, that only meant your tranny was overfilled. When Cubs are parked outside and the transmission is not serviced on a regular basis, it can take on condensation from the humidity in the air. Over time, this can add a lot of water to the transmission oil.

I looked at the rears, just visually. I need to pull a lot of stuff off to get to the drain fill plug from what I read. I’m getting ready to go in for open heart surgery in the next couple of months so that may be more than I can tackle at this stage of the game.

The final drive fill plugs can be removed with the square end of a ratchet extension (1/2" if I remember correctly). Then, the opening is big enough to shine a light in there to see the oil level; or stick your finger in there.

I had open heart surgery on November 7, 2014; repaired a mitral valve. Hope yours goes well and you have a complete recovery.

edit: I just looked it up in the manual and will crawl back under it tomorrow. And get the right plug. Seemed simple enough, but it just goes to prove that you need the manual!!!

As Glen so often points out, yes, we all need the Owner's Manual and to read it. Me the most!

[Jobe05]

I found the right drain plug..... there was such a build up of crud on it that it just looked like the form of the transmission. Scrapping the crud off with a screw driver exposed the plug so it’s draining slowly, but draining.

[Jobe05]

I put the plugs back in and filled it up with the proper amount of diesel fuel and drove it around for a few minutes. Parked it on a slight incline and drained the transmission. The diesel was black but no metal in it so that was good. Inspection of the inside shows the original orange color of the inside so it came nice and clean. However....... All is not good.... When I filled it with diesel it stated running out the rear end (through the open area where you can inspect the brake). So Im sure the seal or seals are toast. I can also see where the axle housing has been welded in the past, Major weld, so Im wondering if these seals may have melted during the welding process, or if there is alignment issues. Im gonna think its due to melting during welding and replace them and see how long they last.

Any advice on a schematic break down or parts list for doing this?

[Dale Finch]

Curious, did you only put in 3 1/2 PINTS? And did the diesel come running out right away, or only after it had been driven? I ask because I believe the fluid level, when stopped, is below the edges of the seals, and only keeps the splashed oil from leaking.

This HOW TO might help you:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436
As for seals, I get them at my local NAPA store. Oh, one more thing, while you have the final off, there is a seal at the top inside of the final that you should go ahead and replace, too.

[Jobe05]

I measured the prescribed amount of 3 1/2 pints of diesel. I still had it parked on an angle when I filled it, and was leaking at that point, but not bad, it was a drip or two, then I drove it and parked it on an upward slant so everything would drain out toward the back of the transmission. That’s when I noticed two steady streams of diesel Coming out.. so with it parked on an upward slope it was probably over the shaft seal.

I actually read that post the other day, very good tutorial. I didn’t pick up on the seal as much as I was intent on the brake repair.

Seal replacement seems easy enough. I might as well order the brake lining while I’m at it and get that done while it’s apart. Thanks for the help.

[Dale Finch]

If your lining is still good but just oily, you can use a torch and burn the oil off.

[Bob McCarty]

You can also replace the lining if it's worn out rather than buying new bands. There is a "how to" if you're want to do your own.

[Jobe05]

Thanks Bob, Dale, I did see a video on riveting on new liners and will probably go that route. I believe the installer used a “C” clamp to compress the rivets. I don’t know if that’s good or bad, but I’ll research a little more about how to do it. Burning them is good information to know, but I’m sure these need to be changed, from the side view loooking at them, they look like they are falling apart.

[Bob McCarty]

Both "how to's" show a rivet tool. It's shaped like a C-clamp, but clamps in a vice and has a rivet set that slides up and down. It's more convenient to use, but the two punches would work well too.