Belt Change

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
brewzalot
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 433
Joined: Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:10 pm
Zip Code: 53105
Tractors Owned: '57 cub Loboy
'61 cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wisconsin, Burlington

Re: Belt Change

Postby brewzalot » Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:46 pm

halftonstude wrote:once again... the hood is coming off


Suggest you get/make a pony tank, at least until you have everything 100%. You can leave the hood off, fix anything, and run whenever needed.

Liked mine so much I left it on and its all that I use.

FOT821C.JPG

FOTED4B[3268].jpg


tim

halftonstude
Cub Star
Cub Star
Posts: 148
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:09 pm
Zip Code: 06482
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Belt Change

Postby halftonstude » Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:58 am

I have a tiny tank that i piped into the carb, but after 3 days of running a little every day all looked good which is why i put the hood back on! Isn't as big as yours and it fits on the touch control unit. It sat for 3 days and that's when i saw the green drip from under the carb. oh well, it keeps me busy lol!

User avatar
Glen
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 5396
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
Zip Code: 00000
Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: Belt Change

Postby Glen » Fri Oct 18, 2019 1:36 am

Hi,
Below is a post I wrote on with info about installing a head on a Cub engine.
The head bolts need sealer on the threads, and some people like to use sealer on the head gasket.
The info is at my first post, down the page some. :)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102173

halftonstude
Cub Star
Cub Star
Posts: 148
Joined: Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:09 pm
Zip Code: 06482
Circle of Safety: Y

Re: Belt Change

Postby halftonstude » Fri Oct 18, 2019 2:17 pm

hey there Glen, going to be reading your post shortly. I had either indian varnish or permatex aviation gasket sealer on the threads, they were all good and dry as i was removing the bolts. Also use copper - coat on both sides of the head gasket. Could still see the fly cutter marks on both the head and the deck, no scars or dings or cracks, and since it ran before without drinking any coolant I didn't think to check either for flatness. Well, head is off and there is a maximum of 7 thou curve to the head. fortunately no twist, the front and rear edge of the head is low, and the head arches up in the center .007. That might account for some of the coolant in cylinder 4!! I'll be able to get this flat in my shop this weekend. i'll be checking the deck also tonight, have to change for a wake shortly...

Well fairly long post, or actually many of them, appreciate you pointing me in that direction. I'm in good shape. i chased all threads on the whole tractor before reassembly, including the engine, tested each head bolt, not only put on gasket sealant on the threads of the bolts, ran them in once while wet to make sure there was a good coating farther in the block to ensure a good seal, then wiped them again before assembly. All head bolts were dry upon removal which was good. There was no telltale sign between cylinders or between a bolt hole and a cylinder, possibly because the gasket has only been there a couple weeks, i just finished putting it together and brought it outside before i took that picture at the beginning of the post

thanks for the pointers, always willing to learn. Cute little tractor ;o)

c

Ruralguy57
Cub Star
Cub Star
Posts: 112
Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:18 pm
Zip Code: 43506
Tractors Owned: International Harvester International Cub Lo Boy & C3 Rotary Mower
Case 60 XT Skid Steer
Location: Ohio

Re: Belt Change

Postby Ruralguy57 » Fri Oct 18, 2019 8:30 pm

I have had to change the belts on my `68 Cub Lo Boy.


One thing I would suggest to you is to check the washer between the fork where the nut is in place as you tighten up the fan. I had to change the washer. The PO had 2 small shim washers that had were bent. I had to use a smaller thinner wrench to loosen the fan nut from the fork. In fact I had to grind a wrench face on either side down to get it in place to loosen and tighten the nut. I am guessing if the nut is wider, you would be able to use a standard width wrench. I could not. I understand the hood on/off issue. That is why I have a aux tank on my cub and ran it all this summer adjusting things. I will eventually put the white tank back on. A month or so ago, I found out the coil I had purchased from the IH dealer fried. It was very easy to change it out with another one wile the hood is off. As for the belts, I had to use the larger fan to pully belt that came from the IH dealer. The one from the Alternator to the pulley, needed to be smaller. I had to take the IH belt back to the dealer because it was too large. I found another belt in another place that was smaller, and it fit. Because the smaller belt would not fit between the fan blades, I had to take the nut loose and found the washer mistake. All in all it is a very cumbersome process to change belts. I understand that if you do not have the correct belt width, the Alternator or Generator depending on what you have sticks out farther into the hood side panel. I saw somewhere in some thread I read a guy had cut a hole in the side because the size of the belt made the Alternator/ Generator stick out beyond the side. The goal is to NOT cut the sheet metal to allow clearance of the Alternator/Generator.

Richard


  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post

Return to “Farmall Cub”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Floater and 2 guests