starter/generator

[birddog]

Working on the Farm King and one of the things the previous owner said was that it wouldn't charge. I noticed right off that the wiring was a mess. When I dug into it there were wires hooked up wrong or not at all. Even wires that were marked, where they went were on wrong. So I completely rewired the tractor and replaced the regulator. Guess what, yup it still didn't charge.

Now digging further I learned something. I always thought that if a generator motored it would charge, but that doesn't seem to be the case. It is as the subject says, a starter/ generator, so would that be why it'll work to start the tractor, but not charge, or would that apply to all generators? The generator was suppose to have been professionally rebuilt but I found one of the field winding's bad. I found one that was close to the same and replaced it. It now charges when I benched checked it. I still don't know though if it will charge the battery, because now for some reason I lost spark and the engine won't start.

Is there any real difference between a starter/ generator or would any generator work as a starter also?

[T-Mo]

Send me your email address and I can send you an excerpt from a tech manual for the charging system of a starter/generator for a John Deere 110 - it should be the same, I believe, as your Farm King.

[birddog]

Thanks T-Mo, but I already have it along with a Cub Cadet one and the Briggs one. I had to use a mix of all three more or less. Some where along it's past the idiot light was removed and a AMP gauge installed. Also when I replaced the regulator I went from a four terminal to a three. I did so because I had a three on hand and I didn't know if it was originally a three or a four, because when I got it they only were using three. (they didn't use the Gen.term. I had thought maybe that's why it didn't charge)

[birddog]

I got it running again today, didn't find anything wrong after taking it all apart and checking individual components. After putting it back together I had spark and it started. It still doesn't make sense, while watching the points they spark pretty good then seem to stop sparking, but the spark plug keeps on with an OK spark.

I still need to check to see if it will charge. The AMP gauge was jumping around on the charge side when I noticed some smoke from the bottom of the regulator so I shut it down. One of the resistors on the bottom was smoking. I know resistors get hot, so I don't know if there's a problem or if it was just burning off some oil or dust. I'll check it out more tomorrow. Attached is a schematic of how I have it wired. Does anyone see a problem or does it look right.

[Jim Becker]

I don't know the switch you are using so can't comment on how it is wired. However, I assume the lower green wire is connected to an "L" terminal of the regulator. If so, it is a "Load" feed from the regulator and will always have voltage at it. Any time it is grounded, you will have a dead short.

[Eugene]

Solenoid is normally in the open position with the tractor running. Thus, not charging the battery or amp gauge display.

[birddog]

Jim; There is no L term. on the regulator, the green wire grounds the reg. to the switch. I don't think that the green wire is actually needed as long as the switch and the reg both are grounded through the chassis. It was there so I used it for added insurance. The switch is made for a mag. eng. so it has the M term. instead of an ign. term. The G term. and M term. make contact with the switch off to kill the eng. (the way I show the switch may not be the way it actually is, I show it that way for clarity)

Eugene; The way I show that part is almost identical to the Cub Cadet schematic, except I make the connection between the gen, reg, and solenoid at the gen, not at the solenoid like the Cadet schematic shows.