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Coil
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
- Zip Code: 06405
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Location: Branford, CT
Coil
JD 3020-Gas, 12 volt with alternator...working through the fuel, air, spark trinity....the tractor dies every 5-10 mins. l am thinking coil...I have a spare that is for all farmalls and internationals. It says "Internal Resistance. For straight 12 volt systems without series resistance"....does that mean I do NOT need an external resister? Thank you.
- Bezirk
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2010
- Joined: Fri Mar 27, 2009 10:07 pm
- Zip Code: 22843
- Tractors Owned: Farmall Cub 1949, Oliver OC3 crawler 1951, Ford 8 N 1948, Oliver 77 Row Crop 1953, JohnDeere, La, 1941, John Deere 4115/w loader, 2004, John Deere stationary power unit LUC, Farmall M, 1946, Oliver 77 Row crop w/ loader
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Coil
correct , no external resistor needed .
Berlin
Berlin
I started out with nothing and now I only have half of that left !
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
- Zip Code: 06405
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Location: Branford, CT
Re: Coil
Here's another one. This 3020 turns over very heavy and I am wondering if I should get a hotter coil to get the thing turning over faster. I am in the process of hooking up the 2nd 12V battery (keeping it 12V) and I am thinking with double the CCA's and a hotter coil I can get that thing really turning over. The problem with coils I have bought in the past is that they never say what the output is...even when researching. I have seen only 1 coil that says it puts out 55,000V....a Flamethrower brand??? What is considered "normal" output and what is considered "hot"?
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20370
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Coil
All you need for a coil is one to cause spark to jump the gap and ignite the air fuel mixture.
The coil, any coil, will not cause the engine to crank/turn over faster.
Check the battery condition, corrosion on cable, battery terminals, corroded battery cables. If that doesn't solve the problem, have the starter checked.
The coil, any coil, will not cause the engine to crank/turn over faster.
Check the battery condition, corrosion on cable, battery terminals, corroded battery cables. If that doesn't solve the problem, have the starter checked.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
- Zip Code: 06405
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Location: Branford, CT
Re: Coil
Great counsel,Eugene thank you.
Batteries are both new and good condition, new battery cables. After replacing the coil, distributor cap, points, plug wires and plugs, I checked the spark from the coil to the distributor and from the distributor to each plug is pretty thin and yellow....on another site they mentioned that is should be strong and bluish...not sure how more current changes the color of a spark. I am wondering if the wiring for the ignition and start button should be upgraded from #14 wire to at least 12 once I get the batteries hooked up and contacts cleaned. The ignition switch spades are pretty gunked up. The zenith carb is currently being rebuilt so at least I will have a good base of good carb, good fuel line, good fuel pump
I will say that it is amazing the "technology improvements" on the 51 SC vs the 66 JD. SC has about 6 wires and this thing has harnesses and bundles! Very interesting to learn about this too.
Batteries are both new and good condition, new battery cables. After replacing the coil, distributor cap, points, plug wires and plugs, I checked the spark from the coil to the distributor and from the distributor to each plug is pretty thin and yellow....on another site they mentioned that is should be strong and bluish...not sure how more current changes the color of a spark. I am wondering if the wiring for the ignition and start button should be upgraded from #14 wire to at least 12 once I get the batteries hooked up and contacts cleaned. The ignition switch spades are pretty gunked up. The zenith carb is currently being rebuilt so at least I will have a good base of good carb, good fuel line, good fuel pump
I will say that it is amazing the "technology improvements" on the 51 SC vs the 66 JD. SC has about 6 wires and this thing has harnesses and bundles! Very interesting to learn about this too.
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20370
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Coil
Check the ignition timing. A bit to early will make the engine hard to start.
Set the ignition timing so that it fires just a smidgen after TDC when cranking the engine over. See what happens.
Edit: Faulty condenser will cause a weak yellow spark.
Set the ignition timing so that it fires just a smidgen after TDC when cranking the engine over. See what happens.
Edit: Faulty condenser will cause a weak yellow spark.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
- Zip Code: 06405
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Location: Branford, CT
Re: Coil
okay, I will have to dive into the operators manual to determine how to time.
Here is a stupid question....or a stupid assumption....if the firing order is 1,4,3,2 then it doesn't matter where the #1 plug wire is plugged into the dist cap as long as the #4 plug is plugged in next to it and then #3 and #2 assuming the rotor turns clockwise?
Here is a stupid question....or a stupid assumption....if the firing order is 1,4,3,2 then it doesn't matter where the #1 plug wire is plugged into the dist cap as long as the #4 plug is plugged in next to it and then #3 and #2 assuming the rotor turns clockwise?
- Slim140
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Coil
The #1 plug wire has to be in the right position on the cap when the dist. fires on # 1, it HAS to be in time. The cap may have a #1 on it, if not do a search on it for your tractor and you can probably find where #1 is.
If your wires are off then your firing will be off. If you have #4 wire where #1 should be then cylinder #4 will be firing when #1 should be, make sense?
If your wires are off then your firing will be off. If you have #4 wire where #1 should be then cylinder #4 will be firing when #1 should be, make sense?
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
- Zip Code: 06405
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Location: Branford, CT
Re: Coil
To continue with the JD 3020 topic...do you know if the choke lever should be horizontal when "open"? Mine seemed to be at about a 30 degree angle or partially closed when in the "open" position. The manual for the Zenith shows the choke horizontal and it might be the cause of the rough running engine.
- Don McCombs
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17477
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: Coil
Here's a photo of a rebuilt 3020 carb. Don't know if that helps or not. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John- ... 4CARB.html
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1623
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2017 4:06 pm
- Zip Code: 06405
- Tractors Owned: 1957 Cub
1951 Super C
1966 IH 504 Hi-Clear
1968 JD 3020
1949 JD B
1949 Ford 8N
1955 Ferguson TO-35 - Location: Branford, CT
Re: Coil
I sent my carburetor out to be rebuilt to yesterday's tractors it is a zenith . What is sticking in my craw is is that I remember when I took it off the tractor that playing with the choke plate I could not get it to get horizontal in position . It was at best open 60% . the tractor was running rich all the time and stalling out when I would take the RPMs up . now I am thinking that the reason it was running rich was because it wasn't getting enough air .
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