Crank Pulley Removal Tool???

[Slim140]

I have a friend who wants me to make a pulley remover that is universal. He wants to be able to use it on a Cub and also for a Super A-140. I have no idea what one looks like so I am looking for ideas and input. Thanks in advance!

[Don McCombs]

Take a look at Ralph's how-to, Shane.

viewtopic.php?f=141&t=34545

[Urbish]

Looks simple enough. Are chips flying yet, Shane?

[Slim140]

Thanks Don. Will that work on anything except a Cub? I'm not familiar with the SA-140 pulleys.

[AL Farmall Boy]

The SA-140 pulleys are similar in shape but bigger. Maybe one with a threaded width adjustment would work? Just so it would be imperative that the puller fit snugly as close to the center as possible. Wish I could draw out what I'm seeing in my head.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Now if one made a puller like the one pictured (with the round plates), you could make different sized plates and interchange them? But I think the idea is to make one universal tool so multiple parts don't have to be kept up with. The pulley on a numbered loboy is conical shaped but has a lip on it about halfway down, so if its adjustable it could be used on that style also!

[Rick Prentice]

Here's what the backside of an A looks like, not sure about size. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Farmall-A-B-BN ... SwYxBaHqD5

Not sure about the crank threads either?

[AL Farmall Boy]

I would also like to add that some puller ideas use jaw pullers. I HATE those things because they are tricky to use and fumble with by yourself. You need to have 8 arms and 16 toes to use them efficiently and easily. Also you can't reinstall the pulley with them if Jaw pullers were used. I would say the idea of using jaw pullers is out. Using them could cause you to throw them and hurt your Cub or yourself.

[Ken (48 Cub)]

When i made mine I used one of these cheap bearing separators from HF:

https://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html

I drilled and tapped two holes for some 1/2" 13 all thread rod.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I tried one of the bearing separators, and came across a particularly tight pulley, and the separator bent to the point it was pulling on the flange, and I stopped. This is when I got a local welding ]shop to knock this together, and it started the production of the better looking ones. I use a 6 ton jack, because I came across a pulley that was a strain for the 5 ton. The jacks need to be turned so the pump is down for them to work properly. The double bar across the top is also used with some washers for spacers to put the pulley back on.

[tomcat]

Does anyone know if these pullers can still be bought?

[Bob McCarty]

Does anyone know if these pullers can still be bought?

You could send a PM to Earl and see if he still has any.

[tomcat]

I will do that Bob see you at Dewey Ok.

[Dale Finch]

I bought one from Earl a few years ago, and it worked OK, but 3+ things I will mention.

One: the bottle jack he sent with it was a bit too small. Some of these take a LOT of force to "break" loose.
Two: I am not positive what the thickness of the bottom plate was, but with all the force I needed to remove my pulley, the plate did bow a bit. I know if it is too thick, it is quite heavy, thus more difficult to use.
Three: with only two connecting all-thread rods, it is difficult to keep the bottle jack straight. I had a problem with it rocking to one side. I ended up adding a third all-thread to the assembly. Worked a lot better.

Another thing that MIGHT have helped is adding a "cup" on the head of the bolt inserted into the crankshaft. This would have helped keep the bottle jack from trying to work its way off the bolt head as pressure was applied.

Anyway, with your expertise, I am sure you will come up with a Cadillac tool. Probably either out of stainless or chrome plated!!!

[Dale Finch]

I remembered I was using it on my SA!! Maybe that was why it was a bit small. But here are some photos:

Original setup from Earl

A third all-thread rod added

Another thing I changed was the length of the bolt...I swapped that one out for a shorter one, then had to swap it back once the pulley came out part way. That made the assembly more stable.

I believe if I were doing it again, I would use one of those pneumatic bottle jacks, so you weren't applying a torqueing motion to the assembly.