Trailer Tie Down Placement

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rockfarmer
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Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby rockfarmer » Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:07 am

Hi everyone,

I purchased 6 recessed tie downs to install on my tandem trailer. The purpose is to set up the trailer to haul 2 cubs. 18 foot trailer with 16' flat,
2 X 8" boards.

tie down.jpg


Where would be the best place to mount these? I have noticed some tie downs are just below the wheels while others are further apart.

Any recommendations, please?

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Peter Person
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Peter Person » Fri Oct 06, 2017 9:42 am

rockfarmer,
They need to be placed so the carriage bolts anchor to the crossmembers at the very least. Just bolting to the junk pressure treated deck is worthless. IMHO.

This is how I set mine up;
Image

This is how I put my Cub on it initially. I now back onto the trailer.
Image

Some states require chain-binders.

Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Urbish
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Urbish » Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:20 am

I installed D-rings like Peter's through the trailer deck and through the crossmembers as he described. But I don't use them to tie down the tractor, opting instead to use the welded-on pockets and and upper rail that goes around my trailer as I feel they are stronger. If you intend to use those recessed tie downs, make sure you at least use graded carriage bolts to attach them. You'll probably have a hard time getting all four bolts to hit the frame rails, which is why I used the two-bolt D-rings instead.
Jim

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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Peter Person » Fri Oct 06, 2017 11:47 am

Urbish wrote:I installed D-rings like Peter's through the trailer deck and through the crossmembers as he described. But I don't use them to tie down the tractor, opting instead to use the welded-on pockets and and upper rail that goes around my trailer as I feel they are stronger. If you intend to use those recessed tie downs, make sure you at least use graded carriage bolts to attach them. You'll probably have a hard time getting all four bolts to hit the frame rails, which is why I used the two-bolt D-rings instead.


Used two (2) 3/8"-16 Grade 8 Hex Head Bolts per D-Ring into the 3/16" thick angle crossmembers.

Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Urbish
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Urbish » Fri Oct 06, 2017 12:03 pm

Peter Person wrote:
Used two (2) 3/8"-16 Grade 8 Hex Head Bolts per D-Ring into the 3/16" thick angle crossmembers.

Peter


Yup, same here.
Jim

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rockfarmer
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby rockfarmer » Fri Oct 06, 2017 3:32 pm

Urbish wrote:
Peter Person wrote:
Used two (2) 3/8"-16 Grade 8 Hex Head Bolts per D-Ring into the 3/16" thick angle crossmembers.

Peter


Yup, same here.


How long are the bolts?

Urbish, I see what you mean by not getting all 4 bolts into the cross member. Might need to re-place these D rings with a 2 bolt design.

Peter, thanks for the pictures...worth lots of words!

Nice looking trailer, by the way.

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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Jim Becker » Fri Oct 06, 2017 3:41 pm

I prefer to tie down with one chain going forward from the rear of the tractor and another going back from the front of the tractor (forward/back relative to the tractor, not the trailer). This way, the tie-downs cross each other and are generally next to the tractor not interfering with the space of the second tractor. You can see the concept from this picture, even though there is only one tractor on the trailer. You can also see that on this trailer one of my tie-downs is going a long way towards the rear of the trailer. I could use another anchor point about centered between the 2 trailer axles. Note that I have four stake pockets on each side. There are 3 on the front and 2 on the back. I still need two more! I prefer to use stake pockets, but your rings are fine as long as they are rated high enough and are well mounted not depending on a wooden deck for strength. Keeping them out close to the edge of the deck is probably better as a convenience when hooking but has little effect on strength. They should be positioned front/back to get some good front/back run of the tie-downs.

You need to keep in mind the trigonometry classes we slept through in high school. When you loop a tie-down from one anchor point to another, a big chunk of the strength of both the tie-down and the anchor points goes into fighting with each other. Whatever is left over is all that is restraining the load. Machinery is required to be restrained in all directions, forward, backward, and to each side. Note from Peter's picture that about all that is holding his tractor back is the front tires against the rail, which means he is depending on the 2 setscrews that hold the steering arms. I'm not too fond of the strap looped around the rear tires the way it is. It depends on the tire not turning. And if the front wheel fails, it would probably fall to the deck.

Straps vs. chains is mostly a matter of preference. I prefer mostly chains as straps will eventually fray and loose strength. However, straps are a lot easier to retension of you are on the road and find one that has loosened up. I often use straps on a mounted implement after the tractor is chained. I usually use axle straps (short straps with a ring on each end). I put them around a front axle, drawbar, mule drive, Fast-Hitch bail, etc.) then run a chain through the rings on the straps. This is a use that rarely damages the strap and I have sleeves on the straps to protect them. Hard to see in my picture, but axle straps are on both the front axle and the bail. Requirements state that mounted implements are to be lowered and tied down separately from the tractor. I sometimes ignore both of those rules for something like a cultivator. Machines under 5,000# can be tied down using "general freight" rules -- a cross strap for every 5 feet of length. For a Cub, that means 2 straps, not one lone strap across the bell housing. If you add an implement to the back, you almost certainly exceed 10 feet, requiring a third tie-down.

Much more than you asked.

DSCN0560s.JPG

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Peter Person
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Peter Person » Fri Oct 06, 2017 4:09 pm

rockfarmer wrote:
Urbish wrote:
Peter Person wrote:
Used two (2) 3/8"-16 Grade 8 Hex Head Bolts per D-Ring into the 3/16" thick angle crossmembers.

Peter


Yup, same here.


How long are the bolts?

Urbish, I see what you mean by not getting all 4 bolts into the cross member. Might need to re-place these D rings with a 2 bolt design.

Peter, thanks for the pictures...worth lots of words!

Nice looking trailer, by the way.


Bolts are either 2 1/2" or 3" long. Tractor Supply Grade 8.
Thanks - 2008 16' 7,000lb PJ Trailer. Side and Front rails come off too if I want a clear deck. Had my son Aron weld on receivers at the rear for some 2,000lb jacks. Makes loading and unloading the Cub much safer - rear end of the truck stays on the ground!
Image

Trailer gets used to haul firewood as well. One (1) cord of newly cut white oak - +/- 5,000lbs.
Load of firewood.JPG
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade

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Urbish
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Posts: 2264
Joined: Sat Sep 07, 2013 3:45 pm
Zip Code: 48158
Tractors Owned: ~
1958 International Cub LoBoy
1948 Farmall Cub
1977 International LoBoy 184
1947 Farmall H
1946 Farmall B
1953 Willys CJ3B

Cub-193 Moldboard Plow
Cub-54A Leveling and Grader Blade
Cub Loboy L-54 Leveling and Grader Blade
Unknown 5' Single Gang Disc Harrow
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Manchester, MI

Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby Urbish » Fri Oct 06, 2017 4:47 pm

I believe I used 2-1/2" long bolts as well. Bolt goes through 1/8" thick strap on the D-ring, 1-1/2" thick deck lumber, and 3/16" thick angle iron cross member. I used nylock nuts underneath to keep the rings from coming free without my permission.
Jim

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rockfarmer
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1950 Cub
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby rockfarmer » Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:07 pm

I'm glad that I asked. Thank you.

Love the jack stands on the rear!

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: Trailer Tie Down Placement

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:48 am

This is only a 12 foot trailer, but this is how I solved my tie down problems. There are 4 on each side of the 12 footer. and I was more comfortable with them being welded to the steel frame.
1006171544.jpg
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