Farmall Cub

Odd? The schematic only shows 3 wires going to the alternator. Your pic appears to have 4. And a red wire is not connected. Before swapping out the alternator i would get the wiring back to stock. Unfix what a backyard mechanic thought was better than what the IH engineers designed. After that troubleshoot the charging issue . Link to 184 manual
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Publ ... doSearch=Y

tst wrote:I see now that the red wire is pulled out of the spade connector at the resistor, fix that 1st and retest

There is a wire connected to each side of the regulator, is the red one supposed to be paired up with one of those?

Larry B wrote:Odd? The schematic only shows 3 wires going to the alternator. Your pic appears to have 4. And a red wire is not connected. Before swapping out the alternator i would get the wiring back to stock. Unfix what a backyard mechanic thought was better than what the IH engineers designed. After that troubleshoot the charging issue . Link to 184 manual
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Publ ... doSearch=Y

Is there multiple systems that were used? Where is the regulator in the diagram you posted? This is the one I had found previously....

Eugene wrote:I would purchase a remanufactured alternator with 1 year warranty.

I was going to replace the regulator in an alternator years ago. The regulator cost about the same as a remanufactured alternator.

The alternator pictured is very old, diodes mounted in the case, and with what I think is an external regulator.

Am I understanding you correctly that there is a newer version of alternator that I can use that has an internal regulator?

That alternator has a built-in regulator. I'm not convinced the red dangling wire has anything to do with the charging system or your problem with it. It may just happen to be nearby.

Make sure you have a good clean connection where the green wire plugs into the alternator. Then add a temporary jumper from your top alternator connection (where the rubber boot is) to the green wire. See if that brings your alternator output down to a normal voltage. If so, you have a wiring problem. If not, you have an alternator (regulator) problem.

Jim Becker wrote:That alternator has a built-in regulator. I'm not convinced the red dangling wire has anything to do with the charging system or your problem with it. It may just happen to be nearby.

Make sure you have a good clean connection where the green wire plugs into the alternator. Then add a temporary jumper from your top alternator connection (where the rubber boot is) to the green wire. See if that brings your alternator output down to a normal voltage. If so, you have a wiring problem. If not, you have an alternator (regulator) problem.

I will try this. Do I leave the green/plug connected while the jumper is in place or do I take the plug off while trying this?

Jim Becker wrote:That alternator has a built-in regulator. I'm not convinced the red dangling wire has anything to do with the charging system or your problem with it. It may just happen to be nearby.

Make sure you have a good clean connection where the green wire plugs into the alternator. Then add a temporary jumper from your top alternator connection (where the rubber boot is) to the green wire. See if that brings your alternator output down to a normal voltage. If so, you have a wiring problem. If not, you have an alternator (regulator) problem.

If it has a built in regulator do I not need the white regulator on the outside?

that is not a regulator, it is a ballast resistor

tst wrote:that is not a regulator, it is a ballast resistor

You need the resistor. It's used to disconnect the alternator from the ignition system. It keeps the alternator from back feeding the ignition coil, letting you shut off the engine with the ignition switch.

Second photo provides a much clearer view of the alternator and wiring.

hoythunter25 wrote:

Larry B wrote:Odd? The schematic only shows 3 wires going to the alternator. Your pic appears to have 4. And a red wire is not connected. Before swapping out the alternator i would get the wiring back to stock. Unfix what a backyard mechanic thought was better than what the IH engineers designed. After that troubleshoot the charging issue . Link to 184 manual
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Publ ... doSearch=Y

Is there multiple systems that were used? Where is the regulator in the diagram you posted? This is the one I had found previously....184 Wiring.pdf

That schematic is the same as the one in the link i sent. Just looks a little dufferent. That alternator is a standard Delcotron 10SI. It has an internal regulator. Using the schematic make sure the wires on the alternator terminate at the right place at the other ends. If the wiring is correct and it puts out 19v at the big terminal the alternator is faulty.

That schematic is the same as the one in the link i sent. Just looks a little dufferent. That alternator is a standard Delcotron 10SI. It has an internal regulator. Using the schematic make sure the wires on the alternator terminate at the right place at the other ends. If the wiring is correct and it puts out 19v at the big terminal the alternator is faulty.[/quote]


The schematic is not the same, the one I posted shows four wires on the alternator as opposed to three like you mentioned on the one you posted.

When doing the jumper technique do I leave the green wire/plug hooked up? Sorry I just dont want to screw something up and get the wrong result....

hoythunter25 wrote:When doing the jumper technique do I leave the green wire/plug hooked up? Sorry I just dont want to screw something up and get the wrong result....

You can leave it connected.

hoythunter25 wrote:That schematic is the same as the one in the link i sent. Just looks a little dufferent. That alternator is a standard Delcotron 10SI. It has an internal regulator. Using the schematic make sure the wires on the alternator terminate at the right place at the other ends. If the wiring is correct and it puts out 19v at the big terminal the alternator is faulty.

The schematic is not the same, the one I posted shows four wires on the alternator as opposed to three like you mentioned on the one you posted.[/quote]

It is the same schematic. The one you linked to shows the exciter resistor on the alternator. There are still 3 wires connected to the alternator. The zigzag in The schematic is the exciter resistor on the back of the alternator.

I tried the jumper technique and I was still getting 19v so I removed the alternator and headed to the auto parts store. They tested it and it shut the machine down two times so they said it was bad. They found an alternator that was the same but the orientation of the housing was slightly different. I mounted it up and the orientation difference was fine. I started the tractor and now the volt meter reads 14.79v when running. Success! Thanks everyone!

I am still having the issue of the key not turning the tractor off. Does anyone have any insight what to try in that regard?