Can the RMS job be done without a new oil pan gasket?

[MikeEyre74]

I guess that’s all I’m asking… When I go to take the rear main seal off the tractor to get that seal job done, does that just come off by itself as a unit, or do you need to take the oil pan off and replace the gasket while you are under there? Or is it one of those “not technically, you don’t, but you are asking for trouble if you don’t“ kind of jobs?

Come to think of it, I have a gasket that I ordered for my 1949 standard Cub, is that the same gasket or did they change something along the way between that and my 185?

[Eugene]

You need to at a minimum to loosen and drop the oil pan a bit to remove the rear main oil seal retainer. Might as well remove the oil pan and fix any dimples.

The oil pan gasket from the 49 Cub will/should fit.

[MikeEyre74]

That’s what I needed! Thanks.

[BigBill]

On the cars when doing timing chains we’d loosen the pan halfway back the carefully wedge it down with screwdrivers, make the change then silicone up the pan and tighten it up.

[outdoors4evr]

Removing the oil pan will save you a lot of hastle. It also gives you a chance to clean out the 1/4" of gunk that settles in the bottom of the pan.

[MikeEyre74]

I went ahead and just removed the whole pan. There wasn’t much “gunk” in the pan but there was a couple of chunks of some sort of small plastic looking thing... it shattered and disintegrated when I touched it. I don’t know where that came from... but I don’t see anything obvious? The retainer just went off in a box to go hang out with TST for a bit tho.

[Stevos_loboy]

I have the exact same problem with a new to me 154. One drip every 20 seconds @ a smooth idle! I would rather not be beaten over the head with a Louisville slugger with this question, but just want to be clear, absolutely no way to change rear main without removing the motor?

[MikeEyre74]

Depends on if you have the “early” or “late” serial number 154. The later numbers and all the Lo boys that came after it, no... the early ones you had to pop ‘Er out.. which isn’t all that difficult, in either case, but I understand your trepidation.

[outdoors4evr]

On the early 154's you really don't have to pull the engine all the way out. You can remove the motor mounts and slide the engine forward just enough to remove the driveshaft then remove the flywheel and Rear Main Seal retainer.

[MikeEyre74]

With all the work you’ve done already just to get that far, it makes more sense to pull the motor I think, especially since you have to change the oil pan gasket if you really want to be sure it doesn’t leak afterwards. There’s no easy way to do that while it’s still in the frame. I’m right in the middle of this job as we speak, waiting for my seal retainer to come back from Tim.

[Stevos_loboy]

Thanks Mike & outdoor: I will be forthcoming on the serial number and would like to know more about the specific model I have. I will also, unfortunately face the music that for all practical purposes the motor must be removed from the chasses to replace the rear main seal. Question while we are on this subject: Wouldn't it make sense to also replace the front seal while in the process? Does the same problem exist with the front seal or is that direct replacement?

note: I have contacted tst in regards to the updated version of the rear main. Just gota get that leaking bugger out of there!

[MikeEyre74]

It took me about 2.5 hours to get mine out. After removing the steering stuff from the front area of the oil pan, dropping the mid mount hydraulics, removing the pan, disconnecting the driveshaft, etc... that’s what you’ll be doing if you have the later model. If you have the earlier, it’ll be a bit different.

[Stevos_loboy]

…………… "If you have the earlier, it’ll be a bit different." ….. as in it'll be bit easier or a bit more difficult? I'll post that serial # tonight!

[MikeEyre74]

My understanding is, the earlier numbered 154 series had issues with not being able to get the seal retainer off because the driveshaft was in the way, thus necessitating the need to move the engine forward a bit. The same thing applies when putting on PTO drive belts, as well. You might as well check your drive belts as you go along and order new ones in case your existing ones don’t look so hot… You will not want to do this job again anytime soon if you don’t have to. The later model 154 series had a recess built into the back of the fly wheel, which allowed you access to get the rear main seal carrier out of there without removing the engine.

If you have the earlier series, it is my feeling that, if you have to move the engine forward 1 inch, you might as well then go ahead and lift it up 2 feet with a chain hoist and work on it like a human being would out in the open, rather than fussing with it 1 inch forward stuck inside the tractors frame.

[Stevos_loboy]

Thanks Mike - If yur gona do somthin, mite as well do it rite! So I agree, mounting the motor on an engine stand and turning it over to expose the bottom end seems to be the route to go …….. making it easier to replace both front and rear seals! Speaking of PTO belts, the belts look fine but the bearing appears dry and weathered, not to mention the sound emitting from it, so will replace that while I'm at it. There also appears to be an additional bearing mounted directly behind the flywheel or this just a coupling for the drive shaft? After looking things over for a couple of days, all the couplings, bearings and other misc. moving parts there doesn't seem to be too many zerk fittings! I thought these grease fittings were invented in the 30's or there abouts ….. wonder why they didn't use them much. Sure would make life and longevity a lot better.